Decapping

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Anyone have an idea as to, for starters RCBS, how many iterations of decapping pins, stems, collets etc.? Today, I had to decap 50 6MM Norma BR cases. These have .065" flash holes. 4 different "Universal" Decapping dies failed to do the job. Mind you, I have a drawer with nothing but the little pieces necessary to keep me up and running. I found 4 different RCBS decapping pins. 2 of which would have worked had I been able to mount them. Due to at least 3 different thread sizes of the decapping rods alone..........I finally ground down a headed pin to fit. A 5 minute job turned into 11/2 hours. Luckily I live alone.

So, brain trust, is there a kit which would have all the necessary pieces whether it be RCBS or better, include Hornady, Lee, Lyman, Pacific, Redding and who knows what other brands. I'd pay decent money.

Since it's obvious I'm not a patient guy, how does one go about restoring a Lee Decapping die which has mooshed the pin up inside? No directions, of course. This was my go to decapper but it failed on the first case. I suspect some sort of friction collet but even with a 20 foot breaker bar couldn't budge the damn thing. The pin looks intact.
 
The Lee die is a friction collet, and it should hold (I have to crank mine in VERY tight in order for it to hold while decapping crimped primers).

If you can't budge it, and it still didn't hold, you probably got a defective part (not unheard of with Lee equipment). I like the Lee decapping die, but hate the square-edged decapping mandrel because it crushes .223 cases that aren't perfectly centered in the shell holder.

I grind a chamfer onto the square shoulder to fix the problem.
 
I found some ball end decapping pins on Ebay I like the feel of them in the Lee die better if the shell is just a skoosh off centered in the shell holder

You found some that fit the Lee?
Do you have a link? . It'll save me from grinding the ones from Lee.
 
Are you looking for a fix for your decapper or something else? My go to decapper for .223 was made from a Dillon powder die fitted with a spindle. It's threaded and does not slip like the above Lee collet type did in the video. Is there a specific part that you need that you can't buy?
 
The devil is in the details. I have 4 universal decappers. I have at least 3 differently threaded, spare parts don't you know, decapping rods. Descriptions do not mention thread size for either the decapping rod or for collet? that holds the decapping pin. So how does one order?

What I really want is a Universal decapping die that will handle small flash holes. The one I have now does through the magic of a grinding wheel. Rest assured though, that pin will break eventually and I'll spend another hour+ when it does.

As to the Lee, nothing is sticking out of the top of the die and the decapping pin is up inside.

And of course I'd pay GREAT dollars if I could find a Universal decapper that would punch through, no matter the hole size, and eject Berdan primers.
 
I made my own decapping rod from 3/16 steel round stock and a #53 (0.059) drill bit. Takes a couple of minutes on the lathe and you can make them with whatever size pin you want cheaply (as long as you choose an available drill diameter)


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The devil is in the details. I have 4 universal decappers. I have at least 3 differently threaded, spare parts don't you know, decapping rods. Descriptions do not mention thread size for either the decapping rod or for collet? that holds the decapping pin. So how does one order?

What I really want is a Universal decapping die that will handle small flash holes. The one I have now does through the magic of a grinding wheel. Rest assured though, that pin will break eventually and I'll spend another hour+ when it does.

As to the Lee, nothing is sticking out of the top of the die and the decapping pin is up inside.

And of course I'd pay GREAT dollars if I could find a Universal decapper that would punch through, no matter the hole size, and eject Berdan primers.

If you can get it apart in one piece you can find someone with a thread gage or put it on a comparator to measure it. Do I remember you being in the measuring business?

Have dimensions/sketch of the needed pin? Another fix may be a rebuilt spindle that is more user friendly.

I've never dealt with Berdan but from what I've read it needs to be done hydralically. Indexing a case to a pair of pins would be more trouble than it's worth. I supose that if I had some sort of Berdan primed brass that I couldn't live without I'd figure it out.
 
The devil is in the details. I have 4 universal decappers. I have at least 3 differently threaded, spare parts don't you know, decapping rods. Descriptions do not mention thread size for either the decapping rod or for collet? that holds the decapping pin. So how does one order?

What I really want is a Universal decapping die that will handle small flash holes. The one I have now does through the magic of a grinding wheel. Rest assured though, that pin will break eventually and I'll spend another hour+ when it does.

As to the Lee, nothing is sticking out of the top of the die and the decapping pin is up inside.

And of course I'd pay GREAT dollars if I could find a Universal decapper that would punch through, no matter the hole size, and eject Berdan primers.
I have several TPI gauges (SAE and Metric) and a micrometer, calipers, and veniers, depending where you are I can gauge the pin and threads and tell you the sizes. I'm on the North Shore just off I-95
 
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I am a retired Mechanical Inspector. Identifying the thread isn't the problem, identifying the thread in the catalogue is, as it isn't listed.

I acquired the Lee someplace in a trade. Up until now it worked at least as well as the others. Sounds like someone swapped out the pin for who knows why.

As to Berdan, what I'd like there is for some sort of pin that would punch a central hole. Not going to hold my breath there obviously.
 
I see, I've had good luck talking with customer services on the phone the 2 times I've had the opportunity to call them, I asked for a couple of the square plastic ratchets for the indexing rod and a couple Lee decapping pins they sent then to me at no charge . They might be able to answer whatever questions your perplexed with. I was just trying to offer my assistance if I could help. I'll go back in my corner now and just keep making 9mm's
 
I am a retired Mechanical Inspector. Identifying the thread isn't the problem, identifying the thread in the catalogue is, as it isn't listed.

I acquired the Lee someplace in a trade. Up until now it worked at least as well as the others. Sounds like someone swapped out the pin for who knows why.

As to Berdan, what I'd like there is for some sort of pin that would punch a central hole. Not going to hold my breath there obviously.

If you need anyting make including pins, let me know.

If I understand you correctly, your looking to put another flash hole between the two berdan holes? If so, how about a jig that holds the case and allows you to drill a hole central rather than punch one through? Wouldn't have much more burr than is normally pierced out.
 
https://youtu.be/LQ5oOBixAgc

I don't have any berdan cases to try making a punch - doesn't look high tech

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Not high tech but it has to be one ugly hole to jam a 1/16" pin through it. Wonder how many you can do before either the pin, press, or table needs to be replaced. I'd go through the bother of drilling them.
 
Not high tech but it has to be one ugly hole to jam a 1/16" pin through it. Wonder how many you can do before either the pin, press, or table needs to be replaced. I'd go through the bother of drilling them.
Probably better to use an arbor press but you still have to contend with different diameter pockets


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If you can get it apart in one piece you can find someone with a thread gage or put it on a comparator to measure it. Do I remember you being in the measuring business?

Have dimensions/sketch of the needed pin? Another fix may be a rebuilt spindle that is more user friendly.

I've never dealt with Berdan but from what I've read it needs to be done hydralically. Indexing a case to a pair of pins would be more trouble than it's worth. I supose that if I had some sort of Berdan primed brass that I couldn't live without I'd figure it out.

Some brands of brass just have tiny flash holes and may be better set aside instead of troubling with them. You can return to them when things are really slow and boring..
I've found Hotshot (Igman?) 6.5x55mm to be one of these. I could decap them, but they pulled the decap pin right out of the stem on the initial decapping. Once completed, I simply drilled the flash hole slightly to prevent this on the next decap.
As for berdan-primed cases, water is the simplest method. Swiss GP-11, Turkish and Romanian 8mm and others decap easily, if you have the appropriate diameter dowel. You probably have a Lee .30 decapping set with a broken pin. A bread wrapper can be used for slightly loose fits to get a better seal. You could even neck-size, if you wanted to make an extra step.
There are mechanical tools such as the RCBS Berdan Decapping Tool, too.
Some brass (French .30-06 most notably, in my experience) just doesn't come apart. South African .308 Winchester can be stubborn, but it usually can be done. Dress the pocket and subsequent decappings will be easier.
Your biggest issue with berdan-primed cases will be segregating them from boxer-primed brass before you even sit down at your press.
FWIW, berdan-primed cases may have one, two or even three flash holes. I've never seen four or more.
 
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I'm going to burn the Berdans to kill the primer, screw it. Seen 1 and 2 hole. I have a piece of brass that someone claimed was Boxer as there was a small indent in the center. After I popped the primer with a screwdriver, damn if I could find ANY hole even under a microscope. They must've been in the side of the nub.

As to the small flash hole, these are for selling so I'll never have to deal with them again and can regrind more headed pins when necessary.. The worst I ever saw was Hansen .357 Mag brass. I had to decap a box with an .058 gage pin. Coincidentally that and the customers attitude were the straw that killed my dream of being a successful commercial reloader.
Well, that and cheap PMC ammunition. This was in the early 80's.
 
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I am a retired Mechanical Inspector. Identifying the thread isn't the problem, identifying the thread in the catalogue is, as it isn't listed.

I acquired the Lee someplace in a trade. Up until now it worked at least as well as the others. Sounds like someone swapped out the pin for who knows why.

As to Berdan, what I'd like there is for some sort of pin that would punch a central hole. Not going to hold my breath there obviously.

Send the brass/current Lee die to Lee and have them make you a new custom pin and replace the die body.
Lee does custom stuff but it may make your 1.5hrs seem like a blink of a eye.
 
Love the Lee universal decapper. Like the previous posts, it's a collet held pin, so you really can't break it. I've hit hard ass military crimped primers and all it did was push the pin up. Simply loosen, reset and move on.
 
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