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Cool. It gives a verbal description of the slides, but is there anywhere to view each different one? Are they worth the bother over the basic one? If anything, I would be looking for reduced weight and improved reliability and accuracy. I can't picture how a slide might do this, but I'm open to hear.
It won't let me link the pic. Seems like they have some copyright shit in place that keeps you from being able to "view pic" so I can't link it or copy it. Just click the link for the combo. Then look to the right of the main pic. There is a pic of the slides. Just click it then click on the main pic window for a large pic of the slides.
 
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Thank you. This spring, the project is becoming a better shot, so that decision just got easier.
If you are set on going with 223 make sure to do the research in to bullet weight vs. twist rate. I have an R700 SA in 223 with the varmint barrel on it. In factory config with some hand loads I worked up I can put down 5 round .5 MOA groups at 100 yds. I used to reliably shoot 15 for 15 at the 100 yd. woodcock egg shoots. Trying to do the same at 200 is a whole different story with a 1/12 twist rate. There are quite a few options in 223 as far a weight goes. Figure out what the longest range you expect to use it at and then pick a grain weight or weight range and a barrel with a twist that matches.
 

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If you are set on going with 223 make sure to do the research in to bullet weight vs. twist rate. I have an R700 SA in 223 with the varmint barrel on it. In factory config with some hand loads I worked up I can put down 5 round .5 MOA groups at 100 yds. I used to reliably shoot 15 for 15 at the 100 yd. woodcock egg shoots. Trying to do the same at 200 is a whole different story with a 1/12 twist rate. There are quite a few options in 223 as far a weight goes. Figure out what the longest range you expect to use it at and then pick a grain weight or weight range and a barrel with a twist that matches.
Thanks. For now, longest range will be 300 at Harvard. I think with the Tikkas, I'm basically looking at a 1:8 on a 20" or 24" barrel.

My understanding (and I'm happy to be corrected) is that this should be pretty solid for a broad range of bullet weights. My plan is to start with ammo in the 52gr range, because that's what I have on hand. As I get my fundamentals cleaned up, I'm sure I'll start moving into heavier projectiles and paying more attention to the rest of the variables from there.
 
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Thanks. For now, longest range will be 300 at Harvard. I think with the Tikkas, I'm basically looking at a 1:8 on a 20" or 24" barrel.

My understanding (and I'm happy to be corrected) is that this should be pretty solid for a broad range of bullet weights. My plan is to start with ammo in the 52gr range, because that's what I have on hand. As I get my fundamentals cleaned up, I'm sure I'll start moving into heavier projectiles and paying more attention to the rest of the variables from there.
1/8 May be a little fast for 52gr. Typically you start at 62 w/ a 1/8 and can go up to about 80gr. 1/8 shines in the 70-75 gr range.
 
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Too fast == over-stabilization, right?

I guess I have another case from TargetSportsUSA in my near future...
Technically destabilization, but ya. It will spin so fast it will drift or keyhole right out of the barrel. Put something really light through a 1/8 and they will spin so fast that they rip themselves apart. For lols I put some 24gr through an AR with a 1/8 and you saw a little puff about maybe 30yrds down range. [laugh]
 

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If the bullet is solidly constructed you should still be okay with a 52 in a 1/8 twist.
 

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If the bullet is solidly constructed you should still be okay with a 52 in a 1/8 twist.
Because of my fat fingers, I actually have 55s, but that's basically unimportant. Good to know that I can run the lighter (read: cheaper) stuff until I can tell that it's my limiting factor, then move up to the 69s or 75s as my wallet permits.
 

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Because of my fat fingers, I actually have 55s, but that's basically unimportant. Good to know that I can run the lighter (read: cheaper) stuff until I can tell that it's my limiting factor, then move up to the 69s or 75s as my wallet permits.
You should be okay unless they're really cheap but you'll know if you fire at the target and you get keyholes or no holes or splatter on the target because the bullets are breaking up.
 

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Too fast == over-stabilization, right?

I guess I have another case from TargetSportsUSA in my near future...
You really cant over stabilize
What can happen is the RPMs can be so high that it will cause any defects to be more evident and centrifugal force can tear the bullet apart.
Like a unbalance tire you might not feel it until you get past a certain speed.
Some bullets work better than others at different twists and velocities.
I have some older 52 gn match bullets that do good in 1/7 1/8 and 1/9
I dont have a 1/12 or 1/14 barrel anymore but they should do fine if I did. I have some 62 grain Ballistic tip That run well in my 1/7 AR barrel but im not pushing them to fast
My 20” Wilson Arms AR barrel in 1/8 gives me the widest range of bullet weight and accuracy
 

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Mr. Malibu said:
Just got an email: Free shipping on orders over $49 at Midway with promo-code "FREESHIPPING0518"




Just got a new Free Shipping email from Midway. Use code FREESHIPPING0527 at checkout.

View attachment 360354
As if I don't have enough reasons already to spend more money.
 

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If you want a project or want to build a short barreled bolt action it makes sense. As somebody noted a wildcat round or 20 Tactical they are good reasons. If you want a quality rifle for less money invested buy the Tikka.
Not .20 "Tactical", but .20 Practical (google it!).

Or this:
 
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Just without the slide. Still, $140 for both stainless threaded barrel and frame w/ jig.
Here you go. Just buy these 2 and you have the same kit for a G19 for slightly less money than the other post.


Nice.

Wish they had barrel/slide/trigger combos.

Anybody have a "COUPON CODE" they might like to share?
 

JRT

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Not .20 "Tactical", but .20 Practical (google it!).

Or this:
I'm building a 20 Tactical, what made you pick the 20 Practical? I think the 20P brass is easier if I recall. I bought a 20T upper at dealer cost from my LGS when somebody didn't pick up a special order, now I'm building a bolt action, I just sort of stumbled into 20T. Ballistically I thought they were similar.
 
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I'm building a 20 Tactical, what made you pick the 20 Practical? I think the 20P brass is easier if I recall. I bought a 20T upper at dealer cost from my LGS when somebody didn't pick up a special order, now I'm building a bolt action, I just sort of stumbled into 20T. Ballistically I thought they were similar.
I haven't started down this path yet. I would take the 20P over the 20T only because it is less steps to reload. Both are similar, almost identical in performance, and both are approaching the .204 Ruger but use way less powder, and use way more common .223 brass. The other one I am looking at is the .20 Vartarg, which is also very compelling. It is in between the .17 Fireball and the .22 Fireball in size, and more importantly, in performance. It is a little lighter and faster than the .22 Fireball, but a little slower and heavier than the .17 Fireball.

Whichever one of these it is, it will be used for fox, groundhogs, and mainly coyote. Also for some fun at the range.
 
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