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Deal on led shop lights

The 5000K is actually pretty good for a shop light. 6000 is too blue, but maybe good for a garage.
 
None in stock in Milford, NH so a moot point.
Uses more wattage as two fluorescent bulbs with half the lumens, what am I missing?
Looks like model is SL-48401-50 Maxlite claims 104 lm/W for this model -- that's low for LED, but much higher than the average 4ft fluorescent tube can deliver.
 
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"Equivalent Wattage 2x32W T8", Delivered Lumens (lm) 4144.0, Power Consumption (W) 40.0

Philips F32T8 TL830 ALTO, Design Mean Lumens 2800 Lm @ 32 watts x 2 which is 5600 at 64 lumens.

While I agree the LED is slightly more efficient (84% fewer watts required per lumen), it actually produces 75% less light per fixture so.... back to my original question: What am I missing?
 
I'd say at 84% fewer watts required per lumen, the the LED is more than just slightly more efficient.
You’re correcting me on a rounding error?
I'm pointing out the difference between "...produces 75% less light per fixture..." and "...produces 75% as much light per fixture..."
 
Ok... irregardless of semantics I don’t see enough benefit to swap out my existing shop lights just yet. When LED matches the light output for less energy consumed I will revisit. Until then, I don’t see the point?
 
Ok... irregardless of semantics I don’t see enough benefit to swap out my existing shop lights just yet. When LED matches the light output for less energy consumed I will revisit. Until then, I don’t see the point?
Since you asked, this specific product is so you can buy the entire light fixture for the cost of two fluorescent tubes, it's not a conversion kit. I have no idea why you guys are arguing about the efficiency of lighting technology that use almost no energy and last almost forever.
 
Ok... irregardless of semantics I don’t see enough benefit to swap out my existing shop lights just yet. When LED matches the light output for less energy consumed I will revisit. Until then, I don’t see the point?
You're not going to find LED tubes matching the light output of fluorescent at this price point.

Personally, I'm looking to go to LED for task lighting primarily to eliminate the other drawbacks of fluorescent tubes -- the cold weather startup delay, the need to swap out bulbs, fragility, etc.
 
Flourescents also burn out faster if they are cycled on/off more often.
But I do agree, why change out a perfectly good fluorescent for an LED? Unless the ballasts get fried, there really is no cost savings even over 3-5 years.
 
"Equivalent Wattage 2x32W T8", Delivered Lumens (lm) 4144.0, Power Consumption (W) 40.0

Philips F32T8 TL830 ALTO, Design Mean Lumens 2800 Lm @ 32 watts x 2 which is 5600 at 64 lumens.

While I agree the LED is slightly more efficient (84% fewer watts required per lumen), it actually produces 75% less light per fixture so.... back to my original question: What am I missing?

What you're missing is fluorescent tubes emit light 360 degrees and rely on the reflector portion of the fixture above the lamps to reflect the light output from the top half out and away from the fixture. White painted reflector maybe 85% efficient at best and the majority emitted winds up trying to pass back through the lamp/lamps. LED's are directional and basically emitting from the underside (120 degrees) of the lamp so getting 100% of available lumen output up on the workplane where it's needed. Add CRI (color rendering index) to the mix which is not stated but far better than fL. It's my industry. We'd replace 400 and 1000 watt metal halide site fixtures putting out 40 & 110 thousand lumens (example stop & shop with LED GE fixtures putting out 16 & 28 thousand lumens and appears brighter and the eye see's better. Way better vertical foot candles, uniformity too. 1000 watt MH draws 1090 inout watts 28k lumen LED maybe 220 input watts. Go to a car dealership with old HID technology and then check out one that has state of the art LED. True commercial stuff not China garbage.
Conversion we did in IL. Good example:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xcCEE5Nl7c
 
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Ok... irregardless of semantics I don’t see enough benefit to swap out my existing shop lights just yet. When LED matches the light output for less energy consumed I will revisit. Until then, I don’t see the point?


In general LEDs are far superior to fluorescent. Even these cheapie LEDs are better. Since the bulbs are integrated, the 40w rating is for the whole fixture, so 4144 lumens/40 watts = 103.6 lumens per watt. Your Philips fluorescent tube example is 2800 lumens / 32 watts = 87.5 lumens per watt. LEDs exceed the light output per energy consumed by fluorescents, so time to revisit . . . .
 
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Looks like model is SL-48401-50 Maxlite claims 104 lm/W for this model -- that's low for LED, but much higher than the average 4ft fluorescent tube can deliver.

Where are you finding LED fixtures that are getting much more than 100 lm/W? Do any exist that are both better than 100lm/watt and warmer than 4,000K? I'm partial to 2,700 or 3,000K, colors look better, which matters if you're tracing wires in a wiring harness.

CRI is pretty important too, but I'm pretty sure that there are no shop lights that have a CRI above 85.

For Edison base bulbs 100lm/watt is pretty good.
 
Where are you finding LED fixtures that are getting much more than 100 lm/W? Do any exist that are both better than 100lm/watt and warmer than 4,000K? I'm partial to 2,700 or 3,000K, colors look better, which matters if you're tracing wires in a wiring harness.

CRI is pretty important too, but I'm pretty sure that there are no shop lights that have a CRI above 85.

For Edison base bulbs 100lm/watt is pretty good.

Commercial stuff exists. Cree, LG, Soul Semi Conductor turning out some amazing stuff. SSC introduced LED equal to halogen cct.
 
What you're missing is fluorescent tubes emit light 360 degrees and rely on the reflector portion of the fixture above the lamps to reflect the light output from the top half out and away from the fixture. White painted reflector maybe 85% efficient at best and the majority emitted winds up trying to pass back through the lamp/lamps. LED's are directional and basically emitting from the underside (120 degrees) of the lamp so getting 100% of available lumen output up on the workplane where it's needed.
Delivered lumens are the key to getting the certifications needed to qualify for certain commercial rebates. I've seen a lot of facilities tearing out the entire flourescent fixtures and just scrapping them because the ROI on switching to LED is that much better with the subsidies on offer.
Where are you finding LED fixtures that are getting much more than 100 lm/W? Do any exist that are both better than 100lm/watt and warmer than 4,000K?
The purpose-built commercial "low bay fixtures" can be extremely efficient, e.g. anything certified as DLC Premium is +125 lm/W (almost always 5000K)

Maxlite, the same firm behind the cheap Ocean State fixtures, also makes commercial fixtures -- at about 10x the price of this deal.
 
Delivered lumens are the key to getting the certifications needed to qualify for certain commercial rebates. I've seen a lot of facilities tearing out the entire flourescent fixtures and just scrapping them because the ROI on switching to LED is that much better with the subsidies on offer.

The purpose-built commercial "low bay fixtures" can be extremely efficient, e.g. anything certified as DLC Premium is +125 lm/W (almost always 5000K)

Maxlite, the same firm behind the cheap Ocean State fixtures, also makes commercial fixtures -- at about 10x the price of this deal.

Bingo and why we have DLC.

Are you in the business?
 
Costco has 4' LED light fixtures at ever decreasing prices. I've added one or two in the garage. In NH they work a lot better in the cold.
 
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