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DATE FIRM, May 22nd . . . 2010 Spring Cast Bullet Workshop - Shirley Rod and Gun Club

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Schedule:
  • 9:00 Am - Arrival - Coffee and donuts available (Duke will bring coffee urn)
    Note: All attendees will be obligated to bring 20 pounds of raw wheel weights or 20 pounds of range lead to the event. Let Duke or Bob_J know if there are any hardships with that.
  • 10:00 Smelting Session - Turning raw materials into clean ingots - Duke will lead this session - two separate smeltings, one for range lead, the other for wheel weights.
  • 11:30 Casting Session - converting ingots to cast bullets - Marcus will lead this session
  • NOTE: Feel free to use molds on hand to cast bullets to bring home. Remainder of your 20# will be cast as ingots.

    [*]1:00 - Lunch (we need to work this out.)
    [*]2:15 - Bullet Prep Session - Doing sizing, lubing, and gas checking - Bob J will lead this session
    [*]3:30 - 4:00 - Wrap Up and departure.



OK, we have an update with regard to LOCATION for the event. Just heard back from Eddie Coyle, and he has gotten us the Shirley club for the date of Saturday, May 22nd, beginning at 9:00 AM.
So, mark that date on your calendar!
Here's a link to the Shirley club site:
http://www.shirleyrodandgunclub.com/

I'd like to keep the format similar to the last workshop, and keep the event a free one, with the exception of some donation $$$ for food.

Those of us who cast should volunteer to handle sections of the workshop, and present mini-presentations for the various aspects of the processing. We can structure volunteer signups for that as well.

Here's the link to our previous format:
http://www.northeastshooters.com/vb...2009-Cast-Bullets-Workshop?highlight=workshop

We did some follow up documenting:
http://www.northeastshooters.com/vb...ow-Up-Documentation-Thread?highlight=workshop

OK, here are the pics from the last event: 2009 Cast Bullet Workshop Pictures

Thanks, Beantown for taking the pics.

Thanks in advance to all those who volunteer for the Spring 2010 event.

Who's coming, 2010 event:

DukeInMaine - IN Co-Host for the event (bringing coffee urn, coffee, and donuts.)
Bob_J - IN Co-host for the event
Marcus5Aurelius IN Co-host for the event
Eddie Coyle IN (bringing napkins, paper plates, and condo mints)
R1ch IN
ArmedMainer IN
CurleyMaple IN
NamedPipes IN (Bringing grills, dogs, buns)
ArmedMainer IN
timmay IN
The Goose IN
Manomet IN (Bringing sausages)
Kenny474 IN
highscore IN
Exousia IN
Weaponcraft IN
 
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Is that a Freechex rig for the gas checks? Do you like it? I am thinking of getting one of the PatMarlin rigs over on Cast Boolits as it goes in a reloading press.
 
Is that a Freechex rig for the gas checks? Do you like it? I am thinking of getting one of the PatMarlin rigs over on Cast Boolits as it goes in a reloading press.

I have Freechex for 44, S&W500 and 30 calibers and have had PatMarlin's 30 caliber paid for and on order since early June 2009 and it still has not arrived.... Every time I contact him he says he is still catching up on his backlog and for me to be patient..... Be aware you might have a long wait if you go that route.....
 
How do you like the Free chex?

Works fine but would be nice to have something that was progressive..... Basically the process is position the copper (or aluminum) strip, cycle to punch, remove die and insert forming piston, punch, remove die, remove forming piston, reposition copper and repeat.... Was hoping Pat's would do the trick but I may age significantly before it arrives....[crying]

Functionally they are great.... Snap right to my cast shanks and shoot great.....[wink]

Process is a PITA but really hate paying the current prices for a tiny cup of metal....[angry]
 
Bob, you do the processes in batches, right? Like, stamp out all the small disks into a pile and then change the tool and draw all the disks into cups, until all of that is done......
Trying to remember how we did it last October.

Actually, I just watched this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GNCVcD4DmE

And, now I remember that the stamped disk falls onto a shelf in the die, and requires that the mandrel be inserted to form the cup, which removes the disk/now cup from the die.

And, here's a guy who uses his drill press as an arbor press! Great idea, since I have three drill presses and no arbor press.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DHw9y1Gas34

Works fine but would be nice to have something that was progressive..... Basically the process is position the copper (or aluminum) strip, cycle to punch, remove die and insert forming piston, punch, remove die, remove forming piston, reposition copper and repeat.... Was hoping Pat's would do the trick but I may age significantly before it arrives....[crying]

Functionally they are great.... Snap right to my cast shanks and shoot great.....[wink]

Process is a PITA but really hate paying the current prices for a tiny cup of metal....[angry]
 
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What are you using for copper sheet? I see that the freechex guy has a freechex 3 coming out.

The sheet thickness varies depending on the Freechex being used.... IIRC the 30 cal uses .007 thick aluminum/copper and the S&W500 uses a .016 thick sheet.... Basically thicker material fits smaller shanks...... Haven't made any checks with the 44 yet so am not sure what works best with it....[thinking]

For the 30 cal I typically use aluminum flashing from Home Depot.... Works really well.... For the S&W500 I had to order a couple of various thicknesses from McMaster Carr to dial it in and since have found the aluminum sheet (20 gage IIRC) at home depot works well....[wink]

Freechex III looks like it has definite possibilities.... Will have to check it out when Charlie gets done with the design....
 
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Hi Duke! IIRC, that's Pat's design... 2 step blanking a bunch of discs and then feeding them into a die to form the checks.... A press will probably work fine but I've haven't tried it so let us know how it works.....;- )

Bob, you do the processes in batches, right? Like, stamp out all the small disks into a pile and then change the tool and draw all the disks into cups, until all of that is done......
Trying to remember how we did it last October.

Actually, I just watched this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GNCVcD4DmE

And, now I remember that the stamped disk falls onto a shelf in the die, and requires that the mandrel be inserted to form the cup, which removes the disk/now cup from the die.

And, here's a guy who uses his drill press as an arbor press! Great idea, since I have three drill presses and no arbor press.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DHw9y1Gas34
 
Bob, you do the processes in batches, right? Like, stamp out all the small disks into a pile and then change the tool and draw all the disks into cups, until all of that is done......
Trying to remember how we did it last October.

Actually, I just watched this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GNCVcD4DmE

And, now I remember that the stamped disk falls onto a shelf in the die, and requires that the mandrel be inserted to form the cup, which removes the disk/now cup from the die.

And, here's a guy who uses his drill press as an arbor press! Great idea, since I have three drill presses and no arbor press.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DHw9y1Gas34

Using a drill press looks like the way to go. That would be very slick with the freechex 3. I think I will wait until that comes out. Might get the 8mm freechex 2 to try though.
 
Heard back from the FreeChex guy, and he says that he's selling the III version already, but ONLY for 30 cal.

I might go with that right off.

Using a drill press looks like the way to go. That would be very slick with the freechex 3. I think I will wait until that comes out. Might get the 8mm freechex 2 to try though.
 
Heard back from the FreeChex guy, and he says that he's selling the III version already, but ONLY for 30 cal.

I might go with that right off.

It does look pretty cool.....[smile]

For those that might be interested, the Freechex guy can be reached by email charles darnall [[email protected]].... Really good guy and his work is outstanding.....[wink]

Duke I also have some bad news..... At the risk of having my man card revoked I have to admit that after a long discussion with the wife I must retract my offer to host the casting workshop at my place....[sad2]

I live in a heavily residential area and the logistics with the neighbors and all will make it too difficult... We'd like to keep things related to some of my hobbies pretty quiet.... Sorry I didn't think this through before I offered.....[thinking]
 
That's fine, Bob, we don't want to have you lose all your man rights. Heck, we also wouldn't want the local gestappo to come storming in, weapons drawn, "cause some rednecks are making bullets!"

We can host it here again, or................. if there's either:
A) Someone who would be willing to host this event somewhere in the middle of New England so more can attend.
or
B) If there's a club somewhere that could serve to act as host for such an event, all the better.

If the B option becomes available, please be mindful that this is an all day event, everyone gets a hand at casting, and is not at all about shooting, but making. So, we really don't need to be able to shoot. In fact, in some regards, shooting might be a distraction. But, if there's no place other than a club to do this, so be it.

In either case, we need a source of electricity for the electric melting pots and lubricizer heaters. Everything else is propane powered.

Anyone have ideas?

BTW, I am sure that by the time the workshop rolls around a couple of us can also demo the swaging stuff.
 
What are you using for copper sheet? I see that the freechex guy has a freechex 3 coming out.

Contacted Charlie about the Freechex III this morning and he indicated that he is still working on developing the concept.... Up to this point he has made them all (Freechex and Freechex II) by hand but now is looking to contract the machining out so he can better keep up with demand.... Will keep everyone posted as this design moves forward....[wink]
 
Contacted Charlie about the Freechex III this morning and he indicated that he is still working on developing the concept.... Up to this point he has made them all (Freechex and Freechex II) by hand but now is looking to contract the machining out so he can better keep up with demand.... Will keep everyone posted as this design moves forward....[wink]

I emailed him this AM as well and got the same answer. Poor guy is probably drowning in emails about it.
 
I emailed him this AM as well and got the same answer. Poor guy is probably drowning in emails about it.

Looks like he's taking the right path though working up the design so it can be reasonably mass produced..... Nice that he knows he has a strong market out there for his product.....

I expect the market will grow even more as the price of gas checks continues to go up.....[crying]

BTW, researched how you calculate the thickness of the material needed to make the checks.... The ideal material thickness is basically half the difference between the sized diameter and the gas check shank. This will result in the material thickness exactly fitting the gap when the bullet is sized....[wink]
 
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No, we're looking for something more central to everyone. If we can't find a place centrally located, then we will do it here again, which isn't all that bad. I'm 20 minutes from Cabelas in Scarborough, and a mere hour from Kittery Trading Post. If that puts where I am in any perspective.
 
Actually, that's the beauty of this workshop.... you can show up, not knowing anything, and be almost an expert by the end of the day. We cover it all.

Those of us who cast will bring enough supplies, so that everyone will have a hand at doing everything, soup to nuts as they say.

The workshop will cover:
  • Where to get supplies
  • Conversion of the primary raw ingredient, wheel weights, to ingots
  • Other lead alloys, what they are, and where to get them
  • Tips for cheap ingots
  • Fluxing, what it is, what it does, and how to do it
  • Types of molds, where to get them
  • Types of bullets, why and how
  • Lubricating the bullets
  • gas checks, what they are, what they do, and how to get or make them
  • Safety issues relating to casting
  • Tips on where to get more info when you need it
  • Lots o anecdotal discussions


I would like to attend. In!

What do I need to know / learn first? Just reading everything I can find?
 
If I can do any Saturday it would be the two I polled for. To be fair...in selecting a date please consider members who can commit to their dates before considering me, as I will be unsure of my availability for these Saturdays until early-mid May.
 
Man I really would like to learn this process!! I need another hobby like a hole in the head, but it would be a great opportunity! Plus there's a chance to meet that Zombie freak Steve too!! :) Just checked the schedule and the girls are gone for the day too so I am FREEEEE!!! I am 45min from Cabelas in Limerick. One thing I do have is lead came from our stained glass stuff. We have a ton of it too! It is 100% pure lead I believe, so not sure how it would work into casting. Oh I hope this works out!
 
I'm still looking for an alternate host location for this workshop. Thought I had a request post in the green section, but can't find it to bump it (did it get deleted?)

If I can't come up with an alternate location, we can do it here again. The workshop would be held at my home in Buxton, ME, which is 20 minutes off the highway from the Cabelas store in Scarborough.

The alternative location would be closer to the central Mass area, making it easier for more people to attend. Does anyone belong to a club that we can use for the day? We need a quiet corner, preferable outside, with the option for some shelter in the likely event of rain. And, some access to electricity. No shooting involved, however, so that makes it easier.

Most stained glass channels called, "came", I have seen are something other than pure lead. Tin 96-98%, Copper 1-4%, Lead 1% ????? Pure lead would be too droopy, when hanging glass. The copper content is a negative. The high tin content would otherwise be a good aditive to make pure lead harder, but when I tried to melt came previously, it was without success. The solder is OK as an additive, but not usable as-is for casting.
 
Huh, well, I'll bring some of the lead came if I can come. I am pretty sure it is pure anyways, but who knows. We do leaded glass and stained glass too. Stained glass is copper foil with solder all over it holding it together. We'll figure it out. Buxton is right across the river, so I personally hope it is there we do the casting class!! We could probably use the Northern York County Rod & Gun Club in West Newfield, although that does not really help a whole lot other than it is on the NH border. Not 100% sure if it is free that day, but we have a good roof over a dirt area and power (gen) plus inside clubhouse.
 
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