CZ75 LCI removal problems

GunCat

GunCat

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Trying to detail strip my CZ75 slide, to send it off to get cerakoted.

Got it all taken apart, minus the LCI. Regular flathead won't work, because the indicator is a slight nub. I ground a U-shape into a flathead, tried using that, but there's not enough for it to grab. Just bends the end of the screwdriver, or chews up the LCI nut.

Tried freezing it, heating it, let it soak in penetrating oil for a few days. No joy. Is the next step just drilling it out and replacing? Some mystery tool that is designed for this that I don't currently know the name for?

Thanks in advance.

LCI.jpg
 
Not sure if is the same as on the 75D PCR, but CGW has one for that gun. Their tech tip, leads me to believe it's a bitch to remove the stock one

cajungunworks.com

Loaded Chamber Indicator Nut

OEM Loaded Chamber Indicator Nut for CZ 75 D PCR. Does not include the loaded chamber indicator post or spring, which are sold separately.
cajungunworks.com cajungunworks.com

Tech Tip: Many times the nut can be difficult to remove. You can custom grind a flat blade screw driver to fit the nut’s slot very firmly. Worst case scenario, you may need to slowly and gently heat the nut and surrounding area to liquify the factory thread locker using a low temp propane torch. Be care not to over heat and damage the finish.

We recommend the threads in the slide and as well as the thread on the nut be cleaned with acetone, then apply a small dab of blue loctite when reinstalling. Do not over tighten if you use thread locker.
 
LuvDog said:
Tech Tip: Many times the nut can be difficult to remove. You can custom grind a flat blade screw driver to fit the nut’s slot very firmly. Worst case scenario, you may need to slowly and gently heat the nut and surrounding area to liquify the factory thread locker using a low temp propane torch. Be care not to over heat and damage the finish.
Click to expand...
That was the magic answer. I hadn't brought up the temp high enough to break the factory thread locker loose.

Just gave it another go, and got the little bastard out. Thanks!!
 
GunCat said:
That was the magic answer. I hadn't brought up the temp high enough to break the factory thread locker loose.

Just gave it another go, and got the little bastard out. Thanks!!
Click to expand...
Another trick is to use one those cheap $10 soldering irons with a custom tip to apply the heat right where you need it vs. hitting with a torch.
 
Michael J. Spangler said:
Another trick is to use one those cheap $10 soldering irons with a custom tip to apply the heat right where you need it vs. hitting with a torch.
Click to expand...

I've done that before with success also. Great NES sharing at it's finest.

Another idea that I've had luck with to break free stubborn screws is to put some "Permatex valve grinding compound 80036" on the tip of the screwdriver blade. It is equal to about 150 or so grit sandpaper and gives a nice "bite" so the blade doesn't slip or walk out. You don't put much, just a small dab and clean off right away.

But glad you got it out.

Jay
 
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