Cracked M14 stock. I THINK I AM FINISHED?

[mac1911]

View: https://youtu.be/SJMjg8FJa5E


I picked up some epoxy from the furniture guy along with some brass pins to reinforce the crack with. He gave me a small handful of 3/32 and 1/8 pins about 3” long.
He’s not sure if the brand of epoxy he thinks it’s devron? For wood boats.
Says it will take stain more than others?
I have it glued and clamped and will do the pin repair later

I THINK I AM DONE, no not really but close.

So I went against the pole and decided to go with the dark red Transtint Dye mixed 3oz to one pint . I also did a splash of black dye to try to bring out the grain a bit more.
Then finished with many coats of tru oil. This is where Its at right now. Not the best pictures. After the TruOil cures for about 30 days I will buff the finisih out with rotten stone and it will cut back on the Gloss a good amount. As much as I like the gloss finish its just not good for hard use. The sling/glove/sandbags will beat up the finish and it just starts to look beat up quick vs the satin finish.
The rifle is a SAI Loaded model and I still need to remove the camo job from previous owner. Its proving to be pretty tough paint.

I will most likely at least glass bed the trigger pad area to help improve lock up. Its not "bad" but I think a little tighter would help. There is a bit of fore and aft movement in the liner to receiver fit. I think its more the Receiver legs being a tad out of spec than the liner. I have a new liner coming and I will see if it fits better. If not I was thinking of a temporary fix by peening the liner face where it contacts the receiver? cant hurt none.

 

[dw617]

My dupage parts kit stock had a crack in that area too. I superglued it shut, sanded a little, then oiled stock.

 

[mac1911]

My dupage parts kit stock had a crack in that area too. I superglued it shut, sanded a little, then oiled stock.

Picked up the epoxy and pins yesterday. Have it all glued and clamped and will let it sit until Friday. Going to drill and pin the long crack. Once I do that successfully I will reinforce the front swivel area . Shoot it a bit then maybe do s glass bed job

 

[dw617]

I always thought the brass pin repairs were neat.

 

[mac1911]

I always thought the brass pin repairs were neat.

For that long split there’s nothing to really support that crack.
The pins do twofold. They support the broken pieces and add strength plus you “dead head” the crack.

 

[Mountain]

It's Devcon- good stuff, as far as epoxy goes.

I need to check again, but I don't think I have that crack in the stock that came with my kit. I do have a banged up cartouche. Seems that the vendor used the kits as a way to get rid of some stocks with 'issues'?

 

[dw617]

Beyond the crack in that area, my stock was pretty solid. Lockup is above average for a GI stock. There are few, if any, major dents dings. No cartouch - so this was a replacement stock. Only problem, it's Birch......



View: https://imgur.com/a/2EA62g3


View: https://imgur.com/a/3VI2Gwd

 

[mac1911]

It's Devcon- good stuff, as far as epoxy goes.

I need to check again, but I don't think I have that crack in the stock that came with my kit. I do have a banged up cartouche. Seems that the vendor used the kits as a way to get rid of some stocks with 'issues'?

I don’t think so they are good at bundling up junk to dump it. Look at the crate of M1 stock deal they had a while back.

 

[mac1911]

View: https://imgur.com/a/HJKaBK0


Here’s the pins I’m using to repair the crack. Local furniture guy gave me them

 

[mac1911]

View: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_Po-6J8wxQ

Now onto the finish
I have a few things in mind.
Since theres not a lot of value in this stock

1. Minwax Tung oil finish _ this is not tung oil its more like Tru Oil and other wipe on varnishes. Its easy to use and comes up a bit glossy
2. Tru oil Again easy to use and pretty tough
3. Tung oil
4. Crazy color dye like a deep red or even blue? Then a heavy glossy finish

 

[mac1911]

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hy8BMn-byuw

 

[mac1911]

Re did the front barrel channel. I damed off the channel with some clay and used a lighter dowel to get the agraglas to form better. added more dye to get a bit better looking color.

Filled some gouges with glue and saw dust between the red dots

now onto the finish

 

[mac1911]

Added a poll

 

[mac1911]

might go with the dark red ?

 

[Mountain]

Oh, that's red! Red is rad?

Just do this and bring it to Old Colony:

Plus I want to see that posted on the M14 forum, LOL.

 

[majspud]

Looks like hot pink to me. I'm color blind.

t

 

[76Too]

The stock I bought/stripped/refinished for my next m14 build. I used this stuff on it, and also on an AK stock...still have enough to do a CMP Garand stock I have kicking around too.

Finished off with tru oil...it’s just easy and you don’t have to keep coming back to reapply it every year. That’s probably 11 or 12 very little applied coats.

 

[mac1911]

I want RED not a touch of. Im still looking for a small piece of walnut to try on. The oak I have is not as grained ? Im putting on a few coats of minwax tung oil finish on the sample. Its much like tru oil

 

[mac1911]

View: https://youtu.be/VLjZe5myb2c

 

[OldNorth]

I did a similar project last month with a birch M14 Overton/TRW stock. It was from a parts kit and basically black. It showed no figure at all. I got lucky, it was real nice wood underneath. This is a teak oil finish.

 

[mac1911]

I did a similar project last month with a birch M14 Overton/TRW stock. It was from a parts kit and basically black. It showed no figure at all. I got lucky, it was real nice wood underneath. This is a teak oil finish.

Nice did you use chemicals to strip it back to clean wood or sand it. Mine was not that crusty took just a good scrub of dish soap and a light sanding. I’m getting closer. Trying to finish this up and re do my reloading/work space at the same time

 

[OldNorth]

I used krud kutter and steamed the entire stock. Steaming the whole stock is what really cleans it up. I did sand it lightly with iirc 240 grit and used the sawdust to fill the pores. Was going to go all the way up to 2k paper with this one but I was happy where it was and how it felt @240. When you go that high sanding them they look like glass but they feel like glass, too. This one wanted to stay gritty. It looks more red in the pic than it really is but I'm not a fan of the really yellow birches and i like the red oxidized USGI stocks so I'm happy where it ended up.

 

[mac1911]

I used krud kutter and steamed the entire stock. Steaming the whole stock is what really cleans it up. I did sand it lightly with iirc 240 grit and used the sawdust to fill the pores. Was going to go all the way up to 2k paper with this one but I was happy where it was and how it felt @240. When you go that high sanding them they look like glass but they feel like glass, too. This one wanted to stay gritty. It looks more red in the pic than it really is but I'm not a fan of the really yellow birches and i like the red oxidized USGI stocks so I'm happy where it ended up.

I keep thinking of picking up one of those small steam cleaners. I bought a inexpensive compressor and air brush from a friend who never used it. Saved about $30 . Been playing with this dye and it comes out streaky and blotchy trying to wipe it on. So im going to spray it on.
Said he drop it off today. ?
My sample with minwax tung oil fini sh is taking a,long time to build up. I will most likely go with a sanding filler/sealer to cheat a bit. ?

 

[mac1911]

Poor lightning and not a great camera.
I think it’s where I want it color wise. When it was wet it was a nice dark red.

A few small issues where there was glue/epoxy or something else sealing off the wood from absorbing the dye. I slowly sprayed on the dye with a air brush until I got the color I liked.
I used 50/50 water and 99% isopropyl. Took 4oz sprayed on.

View: https://i.imgur.com/XW8v9oY.jpg


Picked up an inexpensive air brush kit that I tend to play with more in the future.

 

[mac1911]

The color really does not show well with the light or my camera skills, lacking.

I have 2 coats of sanding sealer/filler on and as soon as it dries and I sand it the TruOil will be going on.

View: https://imgur.com/a/zmQbvc0

 

[mac1911]

View: https://imgur.com/a/i4hs70m

Will be putting on one more coat then wet sand back. Then i will apply a few more coats. Im not sure if this stock is really dry or the oil is having a reaction to the dye. It seems to be absorbing alot of oil in some spots?

 

[mac1911]

getting there. I have enough tru oil left to do 1 or 2 coats then Im putting the rifle together and see how well it shoots

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YBcFSyps7Ok

 

[mac1911]

View: https://youtu.be/N5Q9dNm0X0w

 

[mac1911]

Pretty much done see post #1

 

[Mountain]

Looks great. Really liking the TruOil finish.

Will be interesting to see what the rottenstone polish job looks like. I used to do business with the higher end furniture makers when they were still in North Carolina. They used oil and 0000 steel wool to get a satin polish on surfaces. That's what I use, so will be interesting to compare vs. rottenstone.

I need to get it in gear and do something with the fancy M1 stock I won at Vermont but promised myself I'd get off my ass and list some crap for sale before doing that. I have a couple M1 stocks to unload, misc parts, and I may just sell the USGI stock that came with my DuPage M14 kit.