Colt 1903 won't repeat fire

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I picked up a Colt 1903 Hammerless (type III) and have a problem where the pistol will fire, eject and chamber a new cartridge but will not fire on the second shot. I have to manually cycle the slide ejecting the new bullet and then it will fire one more time but then not fire the next cartridge etc. Has anyone experienced this phenomenon or heard of this happening before in this or other type of pistol?
When this occurred today, I tried using six different types of ammo - American Eagle, Winchester, Magtech, Hornady Critical Defense and two of my own loads. A mix of 60 and 71 grain bullets. They all had the same problem.
So I am thinking maybe the spring isn't sending the slide all the way back to reset the hammer? Or maybe a more complicated problem with the sear worn down which is way out of my area of expertise. If you have any ideas please let me know, I appreciate it.
Paul
P.S. - I'm new to the forum and found it through the efforts of EddieCoyle (from this forum) who developed a fantastic Savage Model 1907 site (I have one of those also). The site is a wealth of information on these old pocket pistols. Thanks for doing that, it's great!
 
Sounds like .32 ACP. But just to be sure is this .32 ACP or .380? Forwarding this to a retired gunsmith I know who once did some work on my 1903.
 
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I picked up a Colt 1903 Hammerless (type III) and have a problem where the pistol will fire, eject and chamber a new cartridge but will not fire on the second shot. I have to manually cycle the slide ejecting the new bullet and then it will fire one more time but then not fire the next cartridge etc. Has anyone experienced this phenomenon or heard of this happening before in this or other type of pistol? Paul
P.S. - I'm new to the forum and found it through the efforts of EddieCoyle (from this forum) who developed a fantastic Savage Model 1907 site (I have one of those also). The site is a wealth of information on these old pocket pistols. Thanks for doing that, it's great!

Paul,

Welcome to the Forum. Go Green and you will not regret it! [wave]

Sounds like .32 ACP. But just to be sure is this .32 ACP or .380? Forwarding this to a retired gunsmith I know who once did some work on my 1903.

It may just need a serious detail cleaning. When was the last time it was detail cleaned?

These are great questions that are important. Let us know.
I have never had a problem with mine but it is pretty much a 'Holiday Shooter' in memory of the previous owner.

Take care.
 
Completely disassembling a 1903 is nowhere near as easy as doing the same on a 1911. I took my 1903 down to the last pin and spring when I first got it because it was filthy. I don't remember exactly which small part was giving me trouble, but the grip safety was a nightmare trying to get back in. I would suggest doing a basic field strip on it and cleaning it out best you can, and if the problem persists, bring it to a gunsmith if you're not comfortable disassembling it on your own. It's not a particularly intricate pistol; it's guts are very much like a 1911.
 
Sounds like .32 ACP. But just to be sure is this .32 ACP or .380? Forwarding this to a retired gunsmith I know who once did some work on my 1903.

Yes it is a .32 ACP, sorry I forgot to mention that. It was made in 1915. And I have no idea when it was cleaned last as I just purchased it from my local dealer last week. He's taken it back and is going to let a local gunsmith who specializes in 1911's take a look at it. When I get the verdict I will let you know what they come up with.
In the meantime, thanks to all of you for such quick responses to my question. I was told this was a large and friendly forum and I agree.
Thanks -
Paul
 
It sounds like the pistol is short cycling.

Right, it does. But you'd think that the recoil spring is probably pretty old and weak (allowing the slide to fully retract and cock the hammer.) It could be that the sear spring is also so old and weak that during cycling, the hammer is just following the slide home which usually wouldn't produce enough pressure on the firing pin to touch off the next chambered round. BUT, if the sear spring was so weak, I'd imagine it wouldn't let the hammer fall until the slide had gone back into full battery, as that is what usually gives you a sear bounce on a gun with a weak sear spring (the final 'smack' of the slide hitting home). If that were happening, the gun could possibly go off into full-auto bursts but the OP hasn't described that condition and it sounds like he put plenty of rounds through it to test. If the hammer/sear engagement was horribly worn and dangerous, the gun should have an extremely light trigger, if you could even get the sear to hold the hammer in the first place, which apparently his gun is doing just fine on first-chambered shots.

However, if the gun is seriously soiled with residue and grime and shit, it could certainly short cycle even if the recoil spring was fresh and stout.

[Austin Powers] Oh no, I've gone cross-eyed. [/Austin Powers]
 
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Pgf102,

I am the retired gunsmith that “Knob Creek” referred to. Based on your description it sounds like you have “Hammer Follow”. When you rack the slide by hand the sear engages the hammer hook and stays “cocked” but when you fire that round the slide slams back with enough recoil force to make the sear “drop off” or "jump off" the hammer hook and “follow” the slide forward. Since the hammer "follows" the slide forward it doesn’t have enough force to set off the round being chambered (fortunately or the gun would go full auto) giving you the condition you describe.

Anyway there are 2 possibilities for the condition. The easiest one first. See the blowup on the attached link.
http://s1181.photobucket.com/albums/x426/HT4461/Colt03/Colt03-1.jpg
The three fingered sear spring #28 has 3 spring fingers. The 2 outside leaves push against the sear and push/hold it against the hammer so it normally catches the hammer hook. If one or both of these leaves are under stressed or cracked or broken the sear will not be held against the hammer with a jolt from recoil and the sear will allow the hammer to follow the slide forward.

If not broken or cracked the leaves can simply be bent forward to apply more pressure on the sear to operate correctly. If cracked or broken it of course needs replacing.

The other more difficult condition is that the sear is partially “rounded off” or the hammer hook is partially “rounded off”. Either way they would need to be re-dressed by a gunsmith.

If you wanted to tackle the spring bend or replacement yourself see the next link for disassembly instructions.
http://s1181.photobucket.com/albums/x426/HT4461/Colt03/Colt03-2.jpg

Hope this helps some.

Happy Trails
 
45 collector,
Looks like I was writing my reply whilst you were posting yours. I think however we are on the same page.
Happy Trails
 
45 collector,
Looks like I was writing my reply whilst you were posting yours. I think however we are on the same page.
Happy Trails

Well sir, you being a retired gunsmith and me never having been a gunsmith at all, I'd say say we are not on the same page. You are are not only pages, but books ahead of me!!! [wink] Cheers.
 
Well I received a call from the dealer that he received it back from the gunsmith already. The dealer said the sear/trigger spring was in backwards, but I don't see how that could be possible. I believe he meant the recoil spring was in backwards which could happen and possible affect the slide movement back and not reset the hammer. Anyway he thoroughly cleaned it as well.
So after the IDPA match today (I didn't use this pistol by the way) I took it on the range to try it and it worked fine for me. So I believe the recoil spring/dirt and crud theory is correct. The recoil spring has a bit of a kink in it though. So I am going to have to look for a new one if I can.
Which leads me to my next question: Where does one find parts for these old pistols? I have searched the Internet and found some places but they seem to be out of parts for this model.
Anyway, thank you all for your help and comments on solving this problem, I really appreciate it.
Paul
 
New or old guns are almost always dirty. I acquired a F&N 1900. I don't think it was ever cleaned in 100 years. Its in working condition. I cleaned it and installed a spring that was installed backwards.....
 
Which leads me to my next question: Where does one find parts for these old pistols? I have searched the Internet and found some places but they seem to be out of parts for this model.
Anyway, thank you all for your help and comments on solving this problem, I really appreciate it.
Paul

Numrich comes to mind.

ETA:Crap! Just realized they are probably who you were talking about. They are out of the recoil springs.
 
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Some parts are harder to come by. I try and find forums dedicated to X. I found all the parts I needed to repair some old Smith and Wesson top break pistols by looking on Smith and Wesson forum. The gent was old school. Sent him a letter with description of what I needed. All the info I could muster and a few pictures. 3 weeks later I had all the parts needed...
Try coltparts.com
 
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