Looking for a load that burns clean in a 38 revolver. Have been using 3.5gr with a 158 swc with tightgroup but gun is constantly filthy. Any recomendations for a clean burning round?
Thanks Dave
Thanks Dave
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Clean burning 38 loads
- Thread starter Dnotarianni
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Neptune Cat
NES Member
I've had good luck with Winchester 231 for light .38 special loads in a S&W 586 behind a wad cutter. Seems very clean to me.
Two weekends ago, I loaded a few hundred rounds of .38 special with 148 gr wadcutters (cast), and Titegroup powder.
We fired them all, and the gun only required "normal" cleaning to bring it back to pre-firing condition.
If you're not crimping properly, you will get LOTS of burning powder blow back, making for a MESS! You really need to do a firm crimp!
Were these cast bullets or plated/copper jacket type?
We fired them all, and the gun only required "normal" cleaning to bring it back to pre-firing condition.
If you're not crimping properly, you will get LOTS of burning powder blow back, making for a MESS! You really need to do a firm crimp!
Were these cast bullets or plated/copper jacket type?
Was using 158gr rn and swc with a good crimp Am going to try some of the 125 berrys that came in last night with bullseye next
I have found that a lot of the filth seems to be from the cast bullets I was using. Must be the lube. So far I really like 3.0 of Bullseye behind a 125 plated Berrys bullet. Clean and accurate. Will chrony this load and work up some hotter loads to shoot pins with. Any other suggestions keep them coming. Thanks Dave
Not to be contrarian here, but "clean" is very over rated.
You're going to clean the gun anyway. Does a little (or even a lot) more fouling make it that much harder?
I mean, the barrel can't get that dirty because you're going to shoot it clean. Unless you're shooting black powder, with a revolver or any reliable auto, you're going to have to go a long time before fouling interferes with the operation of the handgun.
Clean or not, find a load that's accurate and reliable and run with it.
You're going to clean the gun anyway. Does a little (or even a lot) more fouling make it that much harder?
I mean, the barrel can't get that dirty because you're going to shoot it clean. Unless you're shooting black powder, with a revolver or any reliable auto, you're going to have to go a long time before fouling interferes with the operation of the handgun.
Clean or not, find a load that's accurate and reliable and run with it.
For mild loads with lead or plated bullets I find the cleanest burning are American Select, WST or VV N-320. While slightly smokier than the previous choices, I have opted most recently for Trail Boss. One advantage of Trail Boss is that it is vitually impossible to double charge a case.
With lead bullets you will alwys get a lot more smoke than with plated or JHP's. In my experience the combination of lead bullets and Titegroup is a recipe for maximum smoke.
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I not concerned about the gun getting cleaned as much as the tremendous amount of smoke going downrange and the residue that I and the bench am getting covered with at the firing line. The combo of Titegroup and lead is the worst I ever loaded for smoke and most of it was the lead bullet lube. Plated bullets almost got rid of all the smoke.
As Bob_J said, make sure you are crimping good.
Here's the test(at a shooting range of course!):
Stand about 5 feet from a clean piece of white paper. Fire a round.
If you have only a small hole, you are good.
If, however, you have a small hole with a neat looking spiral shape (black/gray) around it, the crimp isn't tight enough. The spiral shape is made by still burning powder spiraling down your lands and grooves and getting deposited on the paper. Tighten the crimp, and all the powder burns in the case, and only clear gas goes down your barrel.
Your mention of lots of smoke indicates that crimp might not be good.
Here's the test(at a shooting range of course!):
Stand about 5 feet from a clean piece of white paper. Fire a round.
If you have only a small hole, you are good.
If, however, you have a small hole with a neat looking spiral shape (black/gray) around it, the crimp isn't tight enough. The spiral shape is made by still burning powder spiraling down your lands and grooves and getting deposited on the paper. Tighten the crimp, and all the powder burns in the case, and only clear gas goes down your barrel.
Your mention of lots of smoke indicates that crimp might not be good.
I'll try the paper idea but I can see a good crimp and with only changing the bullet the smoke almost went away and with changing to Bullseye from Titegroup there is almost none at all. The fun of working up a new load for a new gun.
Thanks
Thanks
Fooped
Resident HK Guru
Would this lack of proper crimp also result in unburnt powder being left behind in the case when loading with Blue Dot? I've been told from more than one source that BD has the problem regardless, but I'm wondering if the issue can be alleviated. This would be loading .38 Special of course.
I run a variety of charges of IMR 700x in 38 special target loads depending on the bullet. I find that the small powder charge spread out over the inside of the case doesn't always burn well with the smaller charges. There's a lot of air in them cases when you get down in the 3.0gr range. I'd thought about using a fiber filler (pillow stuffing) to keep the powder to the rear of the cartridge as I'd seen in one of the reloading manuals I have. It is possible a magnum primer could give a cleaner burn on such a small powder charge. I use 700x with a compressed load in a 9mm round that burns very clean.
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J
Jose
5 grains of Winchester 231 under a 158 grain SWC and a good crimp will do ya.
Knob Creek
NES Member
Clays (regular, not universal). Pretty clean. 3.3Gr will make IDPA minor. 2.7Gr. for plinking
