Cast bullet lubing question:

[Godrick]

In the past I’ve used Alox in a Lyman sizer/luber with good results. However, now that I’m shooting IDPA and trying to up my practice count to 600-800 per week I’ve run into two problems. First, I find it tedious to have to size/lube that many rounds every week in the Lyman and, more importantly, it makes my 1911 absolutely filthy, requiring a drawn out and extensive clean up after each range session. Honestly, you’d think it had been dipped in cosmoline for extended storage!

I’m loading 45 ACP’s to medium power and using my own cast bullets dropped in water to harden and aged at around 70 deg. for a couple of days. My bullets are quite hard (around 27 BHN).

I’ve tried a Lee sizer with Lee’s version of an Alox based liquid lubricant but it leads up the barrel horribly, requiring clean up with a Louis lead remover after each range session.
However, the Lee system (of sizing first and then shaking the bullets in bowl with liquid lube) is much faster to do and much cleaner in terms of not fouling my gun up (except for the barrel leading).

Does anyone know of a lubricant that can be applied after sizing that actually works?

Thanks

 

[jhrosier]

Not trying to be a wise-guy, but a Google search for "cast bullet lube" returned 114,000 hits.

 

[Godrick]

No problem

I asked my question here, rather than wade through 15,000+ google possibilities and advertisements, because I figured I might find some who has experienced the same problem. That's why my question was so detailed and specific. I got many good replies with on-topic suggestions from the 1911 forum. I guess there aren't many cast bullet reloaders here. Thanks for the reply.

 

[Len-2A Training]

Major search engines can be great or a Royal PITA to wade thru the results. Getting 100k+ hits leads to a frustration of "where to start", as it would take forever to wade thru them all.

Using quotes (keeps text in exact order for search) or "and" between words does help some.

Asking in forums specific to the issue is probably the most effective.

I don't cast bullets, but here are some reloading links that "might" have some helpful info:

http://www.brianenos.com/index.html
http://www.loaddata.com/articles/index.cfm
http://www.reloadammo.com/
http://www.beast-enterprises.com/dillon.html

I once watched a friend cast bullets in his driveway. Nasty process, with very nasty fumes when the wind shifted. Personally, I'll buy my bullets.

But I hope the info above might be helpful to the OP's quest for info.

 

[jhrosier]

I asked my question here, rather than wade through 15,000+ google possibilities and advertisements, because I figured I might find some who has experienced the same problem. That's why my question was so detailed and specific. I got many good replies with on-topic suggestions from the 1911 forum. I guess there aren't many cast bullet reloaders here. Thanks for the reply.

I quess I should have said that cast bullet lubes are the subject of MANY discussions and theories.
It is frustrating to try to separate the various theories, old wive's tales, and valid results, if any.
There doesn't seem to be any solid science applied to bullet lubes, therefore confusion reigns.
Most of the lubes that are currently promoted for cast bullet rifle shooting seem to be some variation of the beeswax & lanolin mixture.
It seems that the question of lubes is not important until a bullet of the correct size and hardness is used, afterwards, nearly anything which leaves a slight lubricating film in the barrel works, to some degree.
My own experience, with Lyman lubes, has been generally unsatisfactory, for any load above black-powder velocities.
I've recently shot some Laser-cast bullets, I believe from Oregon Trail.
The bullets were attractively priced, somewhere around $52/M.
I'm not sure what they use for lube, but the results were interesting.
I shot these bullets loaded with near-max loads of H110, from the .357 Mag, in four different guns, with barrel lengths from 2.1 to 8.3".
Some of the guns leaded badly and others not at all. I took a quick measurement of the cylinder throats and wasn't completely surprised to find that the guns which leaded had undersized throats.
The point is, that there are many factors to consider.
I've shot a lot of hard cast bullets through the 1911, and will agree with you on the filthy mess. I've found that heavier loads seem to leave the gun cleaner that real light poppers. I think that bullet lube and powder residue get blown back into the gun more with light loads than heavy ones.
I also found that hosing the gun down with brake cleaner makes for a real fast cleanup.
Anyhow, I'd try getting in touch with SPG for their recommendation. Their lubes are highly thought of in the rifle world.
There's also a book, which I intend to buy, by Veral Smith. He claims to be able to shoot at velocities of around 2500 fps, with no leading, by using the correct bullet and lube. You will have to Google that one, I lost my link.
If you do find anything that gives good results, I'd like to know. I intend to start casting for the .405 Winchester. Took a couple of years just to find the correct mould.

 

[jhrosier]

Oh, BTW, welcome to the forum.

 

[jhrosier]

Finally found the link to Veral Smith's book: Jacketed Performance With Cast Bullets

http://www.graybeardoutdoors.com/lbt/index.htm

 

[jhrosier]

Dang! Looks like I spoke too soon & ordered too late. My FFL has changed brands again, no more Laser-cast, shipping costs went too high.
If anyone else knows of a local source, please holler.
Seems like I need to work up new loads too often, lately.
Casting in this heat and humidity isnt very appealing.

 

[highlander]

Suggestion try rooster lube products they need to be heated but found that they work well for me and I shoot the "popular roumds" from 9 mm to 45/70
Had a lyman lube/sizer and I snapped the handle off got rid of it bought an RCBS
much better and I get FREE rrepairs
Might I make a suggestoin cast during the winter which is what I do sat/sun
I go thru 8_10 lbs of lead at time takes me 2+ hrs .
If your worried about smoke and smell try using Marvelux for flux ing no smell andlittle if any smoke I've been casting for 25 yrs and if you have questions feel fre to pm me

 

[jhrosier]

highlander,
Do you know if the RCBS sizer can use the Lyman sizing dies?

 

[highlander]

Yes .RCBS and lyman sizer dies are interchangable as are the top puncchs.
Saeco also makes top punchs for there moulds that fit but there dies are not interchangable

 

[jhrosier]

.....
Does anyone know of a lubricant that can be applied after sizing that actually works?

Thanks

Godrick,
I think that I may have finally found it!

Check out:

http://www.roosterlabs.com/products.html

near the bottom of the page is a liquid, water based lube.

It's called "Rooster Jacket"

 

[highlander]

I have used a similar product tears ago looked like graphite suspended in a liquid base had good results with it but it didn't do the number of bullets stated
My biggest problem with some lubes is that they either attracted dust like a magnet or would melt off the bullets at 90 degrees F or higher or both
I use the rooster red lube again it has to be heated to get it on the bullets but once cool it won't melt at summer temps nor does it attract dust
Question what are you using for an alloy that has a great effect on leading and clean up

 

[Godrick]

Rooster Jacket works fine

I ended up casting wheel weights, air cooled, run through the Lee sizer and lubed with Rooster Jacket. The Rooster works great. It's not sticky, easy to apply, and prevents leading just fine. The softer bullets seem to help as well - certainly easier to get through the sizer. I'm very happy with the results. Thanks for all the suggestions.

Cheers

 

[highlander]

Godrick if you can get linotype from a local scrap yard 50/50 mix will give you lyman #2 alloy 90% lead 5% tin and antimony they will cast up closer to tthe blocks stated weight and will be 30% harder than ww(11 vs 15 on the bhn)
They are less likely to cause feed problems and not that much harder to size