Case Annealer

[RImike]

I was cruising YouTube tonight and came across this guy from Australia and was quite interested in his method. For about $70 from Amazon parts and another 10 or so from the local hardware store, this looks like a pretty nice DIY setup.

 

[Coyote33]

Go look up the ice water in a cookie tray method.

 

[Fixxah]

Giraud makes the bees knees for annealing.

 

[RImike]

Go look up the ice water in a cookie tray method.

How much water? Up to the case neck? Then blast all of them with the torch?

 

[EddieCoyle]

Go look up the ice water in a cookie tray method.

It's virtually impossible to get consistent results with this method. If you expect MOA or better precision, you will be disappointed.

 

[Coyote33]

I've never done this myself, but had seen the articles. I'll defer on any results, maybe you can try and report back to us. Cost is lower than your $70, though. ;-)

A quick googling turned up these 2 articles:
Annealing cases into jackets question

The Art and Science of Annealing

 

[EddieCoyle]

I've never done this myself, but had seen the articles. I'll defer on any results, maybe you can try and report back to us. Cost is lower than your $70, though. ;-)

A quick googling turned up these 2 articles:
Annealing cases into jackets question

The Art and Science of Annealing

The 2nd article tells you all you need to know as to why the "cookie sheet and ice water" method is spotty at best.

 

[ksimons]

The 2nd article tells you all you need to know as to why the "cookie sheet and ice water" method is spotty at best.

Agreed, I have never done it and have kind of been in the dark about it till now.

 

[Coyote33]

Could it be argued that even "some" annealing attempt would be an improvement over "none"? Or no?

 

[ToddDubya]

This looks like it would give you wildly variable results based on flame size.

My buddy built an induction annealer a while back and after doing some testing with temperature sensitive paint he was able to dial it in for his needs. It was pretty cool to see it in action but certainly an expensive and involved DIY project.

I'm glad I only load for plinking .

 

[EddieCoyle]

Could it be argued that even "some" annealing attempt would be an improvement over "none"? Or no?

I'm going to go with "No". If you've kept cases together and loaded them the same number of times, and shot them from the same rifle, then they should have all work-hardened at about the same rate.

If you make a half-assed attempt to anneal them, you'll end up softening some more than others, and unevenly, making them all different.

This looks like it would give you wildly variable results based on flame size.

The machine in the OP? It looks like it works pretty much the same as the Giraud that another member and I spent big bucks on. Like the Giraud, I bet you can dial the one in the OP in pretty good with the Tempilaq paint.

I use mine mostly for .300 Blackout, which has got to be the trickiest caliber to anneal.

 

[RImike]

I've added the items to my Amazon cart and it comes out to being around $70. I have the rest of the materials lying around at home and I might give it a go, then sell it for triple my investment

 

[EddieCoyle]

Nice! Let us know how you make out.

 

[beaker]

That is really slick. Subbed to see how it works out

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[RImike]

Will do, sometime in mid Feburary lol.

 

[akma]

I think case neck annealing on a larger scale is in my future since my son is now shooting. We use a mix of brass but I noticed that different makes of cases vary in the time required to anneal. Is there a compromise I could do with an auto annealer to achieve acceptable results? Also does crimping the bullet overcome some inconsistencies in the annealing process?

There are many YouTube videos for DIY annealers. There is also a commercial machine based on the design of the OP's post that's the least expensive ($275) that I've found. http://annealeez.ddns.net/

 

[MGnoob]

Akma, IMO there is a happy medium to the situation.. I shoot mixed once fire and seem to be doing ok.
There is some varraion in the temp/time of cases...
I find with the torch aimed properly, dialed in correctly, and the machine running the appropriate speed.
It,s fine. They now offer an induction kit for my my machine.. im not sure the price is worth it.unless it drastically increase the speed you can run brass through it..which i dont think it will but havent investigated much yet...

The capacity of the machine in your link is a joke.

 

[RImike]

Akma, IMO there is a happy medium to the situation.. I shoot mixed once fire and seem to be doing ok.
There is some varraion in the temp/time of cases...
I find with the torch aimed properly, dialed in correctly, and the machine running the appropriate speed.
It,s fine. They now offer an induction kit for my my machine.. im not sure the price is worth it.unless it drastically increase the speed you can run brass through it..which i dont think it will but havent investigated much yet...

The capacity of the machine in your link is a joke.

Considering I sort my brass by head stamp and reload in batches of 50, I don't see how capacity is an issue, but rather rate of annealing is. If 1K or more is needed, then a hopper can be built to accommodate the run size. Either way your capacity reference is irrelevant considering this is a custom build.

 

[MGnoob]

Considering I sort my brass by head stamp and reload in batches of 50, I don't see how capacity is an issue, but rather rate of annealing is. If 1K or more is needed, then a hopper can be built to accommodate the run size. Either way your capacity reference is irrelevant considering this is a custom build.

The capacity becomes a big deal, because of the rate of annealing is slow with the style of annealer we're discussing..
Being a custom build will let you have it anyway you want it so i see your point...

 

[Nickle]

I've never done this myself, but had seen the articles. I'll defer on any results, maybe you can try and report back to us. Cost is lower than your $70, though. ;-)

A quick googling turned up these 2 articles:
Annealing cases into jackets question

The Art and Science of Annealing

The 2nd article tells you all you need to know as to why the "cookie sheet and ice water" method is spotty at best.

And the 1st article is referring to turning fired 22 cases into 224 bullet jackets for swaging bullets. They work, aren't very scientific (and therefore not very accurate), but are nowhere near the quality of Sierra or J4 jackets. Anneal cases for reloading this way, you'll wreck them for sure.

Yeah, a few folks here are set up to swage their own bullets.

 

[RImike]

Using Amazon as a source, all the items have arrived much quicker than expected. Even the motors from China came in on Thursday.

Few initial improvements:

The motor shaft is 5/16", what I did is went to the local hardware store and bought a 5/16" shaft collar with set screw which will be welded into the center of the 6" circular pan. In regards to the rotating cylinder that times the bullet from the hopper, either I am going to use a PVC pipe as a mold and fill it with thickened epoxy resin or look into some other form up tube.

I also plan on making the face of the machine out of 22 gauge steel that will be primed and painted. The side plates will be wood, most likely nicely varnished or something.

I will update in 2 weeks when I get back from being on the road for work. As of now, I am about $80 into it.

 

[jtnf]

My god some of the DIY efforts to do this go WAY over the top.

 

[MGnoob]

This is hardly an elaborate DIY.. for under $100 its a great project.
Its's definitely going to work.

My other post wasn't in repsonce to the op, and this isn't directed at him either...
With the small hopper in the link back in the thread, rather than make th hopper larger, ive considered hooking a case feeder (Dillon) to it dropping the case directly above and on the left side of my Giraud annealer. Through a piece of tube and the closest sized npt size pipe with a slot milled one side of it.perhaphs a jam nut on the front and rear of the machine. This would probily only work because i only anneal one caliber.

My currennt technique for loading the hopper is to stirr the contain the brass is in with my hand and grab clusted of case neck up cases ,about 8 to 10 at a time and load it.



Ohh, 1 other suggestion even though i get 1000,s of round through one of those small camping, or torch...propaine, mapgass tanks...
I get a much more consistant flame with a 20lb tank adapted to the machine with a $14 hose from amazon..to the OP this probibly wont matter with a 50 case run.. but it still is convenient.

 

[akma]

Using Amazon as a source, all the items have arrived much quicker than expected. Even the motors from China came in on Thursday.

Few initial improvements:

The motor shaft is 5/16", what I did is went to the local hardware store and bought a 5/16" shaft collar with set screw which will be welded into the center of the 6" circular pan. In regards to the rotating cylinder that times the bullet from the hopper, either I am going to use a PVC pipe as a mold and fill it with thickened epoxy resin or look into some other form up tube.

I also plan on making the face of the machine out of 22 gauge steel that will be primed and painted. The side plates will be wood, most likely nicely varnished or something.

I will update in 2 weeks when I get back from being on the road for work. As of now, I am about $80 into it.

Any pics?

 

[RImike]

So to help people out, here is a link to the items:

Motor (2 needed, one for the drum and another to select the shell from the hopper)
http://www.amazon.com/BQLZR-Gear-Box-Stabilivolt-Electric-Replacement/dp/B00HDDXBEY

Power Source S-120-12 Aluminum Housing Output DC 12V 10A LED Switching Power Supply
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GWF2QN6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Speed Controller (2 needed) with LCD display, rotary switch and power switch:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QLYO7XU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

 

[jtnf]

So to help people out, here is a link to the items:

Motor (2 needed, one for the drum and another to select the shell from the hopper)
http://www.amazon.com/BQLZR-Gear-Box-Stabilivolt-Electric-Replacement/dp/B00HDDXBEY

Power Source S-120-12 Aluminum Housing Output DC 12V 10A LED Switching Power Supply
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GWF2QN6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

Speed Controller (2 needed) with LCD display, rotary switch and power switch:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QLYO7XU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

 

[RImike]

I got a kick out of that as well. I wonder how many times similar items need to be purchased before Amazon suggests them together.

 

[RImike]

After a 10 months of putting this project on hold, I finally resumed today.

For the front panel, I picked up a 12" X 24" sheet of steel from the hardware store. I picked this size to avoid as much trimming as possible. With the tape measure laid out, put marks at 2", 5", 17" and 22", these will be the bend marks. I also cut out the holes for the power switch and speed control at this time as well as the LED display:

Next is the face and locating the hopper, loading drum and main drum.

Also I'm going to change the design to something similar to the video:

 

[RImike]

Here is the side plate with measurements:
image by m_vellucci, on Flickr

 

[MAshooter1]

I'd be very curious how you make out with this, and I'd be interested to hear how you would rate this in terms of time and difficulty.

Considering 1x Lake City brass goes for over $60/k, this might pay for itself in the first few thousand rounds of use.