Car Dealership Highway Robbery

Darksideblues42

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OP, be glad you did not end up in the wood chipper! [rofl2]

View: https://youtu.be/B2LLB9CGfLs


Who is servicing cars at the dealership nowadays?
Go get yourself a reliable local guy and stick with him! That is the only remedy. He will also tell you which car and which model to buy.
My local guy had never seen the code my car threw before. Rather than guess at the problem, he suggested a dealer diagnostic so he knew how to proceed.
 
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the 100K mile service on the Mini Cooper Superchargers are a nightmare, the nose has to come off the car to remove the part so you can change the oil in 2 places.

Front end hits on them are a disaster.
Pfft, I can imagine a simple fender bender turns them into TOTALED pretty quick. Which is going to become the norm with how rinky dink cars are being made now and all the sensors that are being stuffed into cars today.
 

Darksideblues42

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The
If I were giving you this estimate I would start by saying that we found a lot of work that will be required on the vehicle however some of it should be done right away while other things can wait to be done. The issue is that most of these jobs are labor intensive and require the disassembly of most of the front end to do do each of them. If you chose to do them individually you will pay substantially more due to repeated labor and tear down time. Let me guess They had a sales guy come talk to you about a trade in offer towards a new car if you wanted.... This wasn't Patrick Subaru was it?
Not Patrick Subaru, the sales weasel had just talked me up about how good the condition of my car was, how it was one of the rare colors, in high demand, etc.....

Then he handed me the estimate.

I am going with my local shop to get the stuff done, he walked me around the car and said that about 80% of the repairs the dealer marked as "urgent" are more of the "monitor and report" variety.
 

smokey-seven

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I've had my truck for 10 years now. I dont think I've spent anywhere near $4k on repairs.
My Tacoma is pushing 11yrs. Normal maintenance and on my 3rd set of tires. I am all city driving and it eats tires, I don't care what they are. I'm well under 5K counting tires.

That's crazy, although years ago I remember hearing about a car that the rear spark plugs couldn't be removed without unbolting the motor mounts and lifting the motor.
I had a 67 Ford Fairlane 350GT with a 390 engine. I determined that the drivers side rear spark plug could not be removed without dealing with the motor mount. I cut a hole in the fender well, used an extension when I needed to change that plug and popped a big rubber grommet into the hole when done.
 

appraiser

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My local guy had never seen the code my car threw before. Rather than guess at the problem, he suggested a dealer diagnostic so he knew how to proceed.
The Feds mandate that the OBDII codes be readable to the public, it is the manufacturer specific codes that are proprietary and problematic.

Many times I google them and get an answer to what they are.

We do have a guy that has all the manufacturer software licenses who we call in when the need arises.

He may charge a little more than a dealer would to pull the codes, but he is really good when it comes to interpreting them and getting us onto the problem rather than chasing codes hoping we get it right.
 

appraiser

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@HARRYM @smokey-seven

Oh there were all sorts of cars that had that problem, I did a tune up on a big motored Plymouth once that had the original plug in the drivers side rear cylinder, the car had 80K on it. This was long before the days of Iridium spark plugs.... there was not a lot left to it.

The ones that are hard to get out are not the problem, it is the ones that WON'T come out that are problematic.... like the Ford 5.4 Triton motors of the 2004 to 2007 variety.

Now that plugs can go 100K miles, we don't take them out as much as we once did, unless a coil on plug fails and we replace the plug as it is usually fouled or we are looking to see signs of oil consumption doing a compression test, etc. but they still can suck, especially when there is a coil pack that has to come off first... I am reminded of a Suburu I did earlier this year that was done by Braille.
 

Darksideblues42

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The Feds mandate that the OBDII codes be readable to the public, it is the manufacturer specific codes that are proprietary and problematic.

Many times I google them and get an answer to what they are.

We do have a guy that has all the manufacturer software licenses who we call in when the need arises.

He may charge a little more than a dealer would to pull the codes, but he is really good when it comes to interpreting them and getting us onto the problem rather than chasing codes hoping we get it right.
The code was not an OBDII code. It is one of the proprietary codes that manufacturers get to keep secret. My local guy could read the code, but it was not one he had ever seen before. EKN Excess Temperature, so before he started poking around, he wanted more than the 80% sure path.IMG_20191203_144702.jpg
 

Mark from MA

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I would never buy a BMW, Vulva, Mercedes, Mini....place your expensive euro trash car here.
Their engineers are retarded, tools needed are special, and parts are double to triple.
Dealership is generally the last place I go for service unless its warrant or recall.

I have never put even 1k into a car repair. Ever.

I do most of my own repairs.
Even new Michelin tires for my truck didnt cost a grand.

What I own that is newer has a warranty.

What I own that is older I would cut my losses and buy a newer car at 2500 or less, less if the mileage was high and car had other funky issues that bothered me.
 
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I had the Ram Dealer here in Nashua Quote me $1800 for the
Transmission Selenoid pack and Valve Body. This was supposed to
be covered under a Lifetime Powertrain Warranty. They found a
way to weasel out of it. They only hooked up a computer and
drove the truck. The Code was only for the Selenoid pack. So how
did they "know" the Valve Body was bad too?

They also wanted $1400 for Front Brakes, Calipers, and Rotors.
$1200 to fix the water pump leak. This would have been covered
under the Warranty also. $1200 for the Steering Rack.

I purchased the Valve body and selenoid pack with gaskets and filters
for $400 shipped. Add the ATF +4 fluid and I was still under $500.
Had the use of the Auto Lift at Make it Labs and finish in under 2 hrs.

Malodave
 
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My Tacoma is pushing 11yrs. Normal maintenance and on my 3rd set of tires. I am all city driving and it eats tires, I don't care what they are. I'm well under 5K counting tires.



I had a 67 Ford Fairlane 350GT with a 390 engine. I determined that the drivers side rear spark plug could not be removed without dealing with the motor mount. I cut a hole in the fender well, used an extension when I needed to change that plug and popped a big rubber grommet into the hole when done.
My buddy had a 68 390 Mustang Fastback. We daisy chained a couple wobble joints together, we could change it, but a major PITA. Basically same car, different body. Probably would have been faster to just lift the motor.
 

strangenh

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thats bad "estimating." I have never had a shop charge me twice for the labor to replace multiple parts. I have even had places suggest that more "minor" parts be replaced at the same time as a large repair as the labor would have needed to be replicated when the net "minor part" was needing replaced. It's like when your water pump goes, they may as well replace the thermostat and the belts at the same time as replacing those items later would require most of the same labor to get at those parts. (may vary depending on vehicle)
Definitely my experience as well. Once they determine one thing needs a major disassembly, they propose the other stuff that is "getting there" and would require the same labor to get at it, that could be done at the same time to save on future labor. If a place didn't do that, I'd start to wonder about their ability to think clearly, if not their ethics.
 

Dennis in MA

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Worst stealership problem I ever had was at Tasca years and years and years ago. I had some lower control arm bushings or something broken on my Gran-Mah-Kee. Brought it in. Appointment and all. ON the appointment - LOUD noise in front end. Ask them to do an oil change while it's in.

2 hours later get a call it's ready. ????? I go down at the end of the day and pick it up. Get onto the road - they did the oil change and never touched the actual thing that needed fixing. Called up mgmt and it was fixed 2 days later. But c'mon, man. Fix what you're supposed to fix! That was my last appointment with them ever. (Although strangely not my last car - my last car was a year later when I got a Mountaineer. What a steaming pile that was as well. The AC compressor let go in year-3. Well, that year, they made TWO COMPLETELY DIFFERENT MODELS of air conditioning. My local guy orders all the parts - WRONG PARTS! Ugh. Never again.)
 
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I once took 7 years away from the logging business and I worked at a Chrysler, Dodge, Ram, Jeep dealership in NH near where I live. Spent about a year there before selling at a John Deere dealership. There is a movie called "Suckers", and if you watch the opening scene where they have the sales meeting, then you get just a brief taste of what actually goes on inside most dealerships. The ownership beefs the management in the ass, the management beefs the sales staff in the ass, and the sales staff teams up with management and ownership to wrap sandpaper on their dicks and pump the customers in the tail pipe. The horror stories written here just scrape the surface of it, trust me. The whole object is to wring every last dime out of a customer. This was back in 2001, before the Interweb took over. Now that most new car deals get done on line, the ability to financially sodomize the public has been limited somewhat. But don't worry, you are still getting f***ed. Add in to that the way customers are spoken about by the staff at most dealerships; I could tell you stories that would curl your toes and make a $12,000.00 repair bill look like child's play. I ended up getting a sales job at a John Deere dealer until I went back to logging. To be frank, I was ashamed about what I had to do to bring home a paycheck in the car business. There is no such thing as a "good" car dealership; you'll find a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow before you find a car dealership that has never lied to you.
 

one-eyed Jack

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The only service that I have ever gone to a dealer for was when I bought a new truck and had my two free oil changes done. For over 20 years I have used a small one man shop for front end, tires, brakes and alignment and another shop for everything else. I built up relationships and always paid cash. Never once got screwed. Jack.
 

Daddy Mac

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Commonwealth Chevrolet. Stay away from these people. Rotten bastards. The fish rots from the head, the owners wouldn't even speak with me. By the way, Steve McQueen used to race mini's back in the day, so they've got that going for them.
 

andrew1220

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Who is servicing cars at the dealership nowadays?
I got a 2013 Accord and the only time I go to the dealership is to get an oil change as I'm usually in and out within 40 minutes or so. I have a very good/experienced mechanic friend who helps me out but I typically have to drop the car off the night before so he can work on it. That's a giant PITA and waste of time (especially since he doesn't work on the weekends) for an oil change. Lately I've been going to Sullivan Tire for brakes/tire work as they make it super convenient to book an apt online AND they're open on the weekend which works for my schedule.
 
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