D
Deleted member 12999
Can you circumcise a gnat? Because unless you can do that... I'm not impressed.
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Can't hit anything with my G17. Should I modify it?
- Thread starter johnny.cassidy3
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ChevyGuy91
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Can you circumcise a gnat? Because unless you can do that... I'm not impressed.
I thought that kids name was Bug? Most excellent reference none the less.
D
Deleted member 12999
His name was Bug. You're right. Candy said he was known to circumcise a gnat. Then said you're not a gnat are you bug? Lol
ChevyGuy91
NES Member
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OH SHIT! I just schooled on my Uncle Buck knowledge.
Bravo, I am going to go rep rape some dudes so I can NES "poke" you.
How fast and accurate?
GlockJock
NES Member
Almost as good as Yosemite Sam.
D
Deleted member 12999
I always like YouTube videos of shooting. SuperMoto's would probably satisfy the standard of fast and accurate.
It was a serious question. I'm always interested in what others consider fast and accurate, especially when shooting rapidly. As I have progressed as a shooter, I have seen a lot of shooting done that I didn't think was possible. Some of that stuff is easy for me now and others things are still very difficult and I haven't been able to achieve the same level.
I'd recommend dry fire practice. Get to know the trigger take up, break, and reset. Know them well. Then the accuracy and precision will follow.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Eric Chang
NES Member
If you have long fingers, a suggestion is to rest the trigger finger beyond the pad of the first joint (not on the pad of the fingerprint area. but on the bend of the first joint). It goes against what some have taught but I found it to work better for me. I shot 1911 and cz 75 all differently but I adjust this differently with my g17 i have to insert my finger deep so that i pull straight back during the trigger finger movement. (btw its only on the glock that I have to do this) Try not to leave a gap of space of the upper finger area to the frame.I did before and pushed the groups to the left. I paraphrased the article on the bottom.
I hope this is helpful to you. I tried this and my groups improved a lot
http://progunfighter.com/trigger-control/
I hope this is helpful to you. I tried this and my groups improved a lot
http://progunfighter.com/trigger-control/
It amazes me that so many gun owners are willing to dump money into their guns in hopes that it'll make them shoot better, but pucker up tighter than a nun's ******* when you suggest they take a class or get some formal training.
dcmdon
NES Member
No I have not read all 8 pages. I apologize in advance for that. But here are two (conflicting) thoughts.
1) Have someone who you know is a good shot, shoot the gun. See how they do. If they do much better than you, then its you.
2) Even if it is you, you can take some very simple steps to make the trigger pull on a Glock much better for about $20. But remember, its 95% the nut behind the gun that determines how well things go. I've seen Dave Sevigney win an IDPA regional match with a Glock 17 that came out of its box 15 minutes before he started using it. There is no substitute for good marksmanship fundamentals. BY FAR the biggest error I see is in people's trigger squeeze and follow through. Most people yank the trigger. On a rifle its a minor problem. On a handgun its Huge. Play the ball and dummy drill to diagnose if your trigger squeeze is the source of your problems. (google it)
Don
p.s. one thing I've noticed since I got a trigger pull gauge about 4 years ago is that most people don't know 5h1t about what weight a trigger is actually set at. Before I got my gauge, I figured my Gen 3 G34 with a stock trigger and a 3.5# connector had a 3.5 lb pull. It didn't, it was actually 5.5#
I took the gauge to several matches over the first year I had it and asked people to estimate their trigger pull. In almost all cases, it tested significantly higher than most people thought their pull was. Typically 1.5 to 2 lbs higher than their estimate. On a Glock 17 the work above will take the trigger from about 6.5 lbs to between 3 and 4.5 lbs depending on the striker spring you use.
1) Have someone who you know is a good shot, shoot the gun. See how they do. If they do much better than you, then its you.
2) Even if it is you, you can take some very simple steps to make the trigger pull on a Glock much better for about $20. But remember, its 95% the nut behind the gun that determines how well things go. I've seen Dave Sevigney win an IDPA regional match with a Glock 17 that came out of its box 15 minutes before he started using it. There is no substitute for good marksmanship fundamentals. BY FAR the biggest error I see is in people's trigger squeeze and follow through. Most people yank the trigger. On a rifle its a minor problem. On a handgun its Huge. Play the ball and dummy drill to diagnose if your trigger squeeze is the source of your problems. (google it)
- If it is going to be a carry gun, buy a Glock 4.5 lb connector. If its a range toy, get a Ghost or other aftermarket connector. Preferably one that allows you to file it down so there is minimal overtravel. (Do they still make that kind?)
- Go to gunsprings.com.
- If its going to be a carry gun order:
- A reduced power 5# striker spring
- A reduced power striker safety plunger spring.
- If its a range toy order
- A 4# and 4.5# striker spring
- A reduced power striker safety plunger spring.
- Do not buy the higher power trigger spring (since this spring pulls back on the trigger it lowers the pull weight) I've found that this spring makes the trigger slow to follow your finger on the reset.
- If its going to be a carry gun order:
- Remove the striker and polish the face on which the sear acts to a mirror polish.
- If you are motivated, polish the entire length of the striker. Since the striker spring slides on this surface, smoothing it will help trigger feel.
- Clean out the striker chanel and GREASE not oil the chanel and the striker lightly.
- If you are motivated remove polish the sear face and the face of the (can't remember the name) part that bears on the angled part of the connector. Then polish the connector. Grease these bearing surfaces.
- Put it all back together and smile.
- If you don't want to go through all the polishing, just the spring and connector change will significantly improve the trigger pull
- For a range toy, start with the 4# striker spring. If it fires reliably, you are done. If it doesn't , remove it and install the 4.5# spring.
- Note - the stock Glock striker spring is 5.5#
Don
p.s. one thing I've noticed since I got a trigger pull gauge about 4 years ago is that most people don't know 5h1t about what weight a trigger is actually set at. Before I got my gauge, I figured my Gen 3 G34 with a stock trigger and a 3.5# connector had a 3.5 lb pull. It didn't, it was actually 5.5#
I took the gauge to several matches over the first year I had it and asked people to estimate their trigger pull. In almost all cases, it tested significantly higher than most people thought their pull was. Typically 1.5 to 2 lbs higher than their estimate. On a Glock 17 the work above will take the trigger from about 6.5 lbs to between 3 and 4.5 lbs depending on the striker spring you use.
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I've gotten better, though it still has a hard sloppy trigger. I fired another G17 with no issues. I tried the dry firing and my sights still moved on mine because I'm pulling back too hard (not flinching, on dry fire? C'mon) on the trigger but not on the one I was trying which felt smoother. Also every time I cleaned the gun I noticed lots of wear marks and metal flakes on the trigger surfaces and I mean excessive. A shop told me I may have to replace the trigger and firing pin. When I get some time and money I may do this. As for dumping money on it, I don't see why people can't their guns as they see fit as it belongs to them in the first place, whether it's through training classes or that new tacticool gadget that turns their handgun into a sniper pistol regardless if the end user can hit the broad side of a barn.
dcmdon
NES Member
If you have noticed a difference between your gun and another STOCK G17 of the same generation, before you spend a dime. Call Glock and they take the gun back and go through it at no cost to you. Shipping included.
Have you ever measured the trigger pull?
Have you ever measured the trigger pull?
Notice the uneven wear marks and U shape on the surface. I'm getting a very hard trigger pull with it. The one I tried did not have this. Though still, it has become my favorite gun to shoot thus far.
The gun was new.
dcmdon
NES Member
Please answer ALL of these questions:
Did you buy it new?
If you bought it new.
If yes, then when did you get it?
How many rounds through it since you bought it?
If you got it used
What gen is it?
How long have you had it?
How many rounds have you put through it?
Just an FYI. I had a G34 that I put over 35,000 rounds through and it didn't look like that.
Don
Did you buy it new?
If you bought it new.
If yes, then when did you get it?
How many rounds through it since you bought it?
If you got it used
What gen is it?
How long have you had it?
How many rounds have you put through it?
Just an FYI. I had a G34 that I put over 35,000 rounds through and it didn't look like that.
Don
Mine always do.
Except that one time that caused my son to roll his eyes exasperatedly when my second shot went through the hole of my first shot.
I could've died happy.
Purchased new in early 2013, Gen 4, about 1K rnds since, came with the pink sticker on box, factory test casing, papers, mags, etc... Me and a friend bought one on the same day in the same shop and his trigger does not look as FUBAR as mine and is much smoother and lighter.
.
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dcmdon
NES Member
Two weeks ago I went shooting with a neighbor. He grew up hunting but was pretty much a novice around handguns.
We shot both my and his .22s and he did well. I fixed his trigger pull by using my (patented) method of having him put his trigger finger between the trigger and my finger, so he could FEEL my trigger squeeze. This always yields instant improvement and this time was no different. I soothingly repeated a "frontsight, followthrough" mantra as he squeezed and his groups were cut by 2/3 in 15 minutes.
Then we went on to his M&P 45, which he said shot way low and left. I loaded 3 rounds, held the front dot on the bull and put 3 shots evenly dispersed around the bulls eye.
"Its you" I told him. You are afraid of the gun.
He told me he wasn't consciously afraid of the gun. (by the way, this guy is rocket scientist smart, he's actually a rocket scientist)
So we did a ball and dummy drill. I "loaded" the gun and placed it on the table. He picked it up and gently squeezed the trigger (he's highly trainable), as the "shot" broke, he pushed the gun down noticeably and yanked the trigger which pushed the muzzle to the left.
He was astonished. I suggested he not shoot that gun again until he had more time behind a .22 and worked a large 9mm into the mix. Unless of course he wanted to cement that flinch into his muscle memory for all of eternity.
It was a good day. We both had fun. Once we went over the fundamentals he shot the .22 very well.
Why does this matter? To the OP. Spend a day with someone doing what I just described above. You will quickly learn whether the problem is you or the gun. Are you afraid of the gun? (No joke) Can you squeeze the trigger and really actually WAIT for the break without moving any other muscles? You won't know until you do the ball and dummy drill.
Don
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Based on this. The answer is simple. Send it back. Then start from scratch doing the stuff I mentioned above once it comes back.
Don
We shot both my and his .22s and he did well. I fixed his trigger pull by using my (patented) method of having him put his trigger finger between the trigger and my finger, so he could FEEL my trigger squeeze. This always yields instant improvement and this time was no different. I soothingly repeated a "frontsight, followthrough" mantra as he squeezed and his groups were cut by 2/3 in 15 minutes.
Then we went on to his M&P 45, which he said shot way low and left. I loaded 3 rounds, held the front dot on the bull and put 3 shots evenly dispersed around the bulls eye.
"Its you" I told him. You are afraid of the gun.
He told me he wasn't consciously afraid of the gun. (by the way, this guy is rocket scientist smart, he's actually a rocket scientist)
So we did a ball and dummy drill. I "loaded" the gun and placed it on the table. He picked it up and gently squeezed the trigger (he's highly trainable), as the "shot" broke, he pushed the gun down noticeably and yanked the trigger which pushed the muzzle to the left.
He was astonished. I suggested he not shoot that gun again until he had more time behind a .22 and worked a large 9mm into the mix. Unless of course he wanted to cement that flinch into his muscle memory for all of eternity.
It was a good day. We both had fun. Once we went over the fundamentals he shot the .22 very well.
Why does this matter? To the OP. Spend a day with someone doing what I just described above. You will quickly learn whether the problem is you or the gun. Are you afraid of the gun? (No joke) Can you squeeze the trigger and really actually WAIT for the break without moving any other muscles? You won't know until you do the ball and dummy drill.
Don
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Based on this. The answer is simple. Send it back. Then start from scratch doing the stuff I mentioned above once it comes back.
Don
If you're used to other guns, the glock can definitely cause your groups to open up with it. Aside from the stock creepy jerky trigger, the grip angle is different.
Aside from lots of dry practice, a 4.5lb connecter paired with the olive NY trigger spring and a light polishing of the working internals worked wonders for me personally.
Aside from lots of dry practice, a 4.5lb connecter paired with the olive NY trigger spring and a light polishing of the working internals worked wonders for me personally.
Do NOT grease the striker or channel. This will increase friction and fouling and cause light strikes. I clean the channel with rubbing alcohol on a q-tip and gentle compressed air. My competition triggers are 2.75 lbs and 100% reliable.
Thx for the advise but believe me I'm not a bad shot. I can shoot any other G17 just fine. dcmdon, Ive caught my self doing that in the past but but ive been working it out, and why would I flinch when dry firing. Im just going to replace the trigger and firing pin with the same factory parts when I get the opportunity. As for "hair triggers" and connectors, I don't like them. I prefer stock as long as its not 20+lbs.
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dcmdon
NES Member
I've never had any trouble with this. But I will add that this is for my competition guns. Which get cleaned probably every 500 rounds. Nothing crazy just a few passes with a brush through the barrel, clean the striker channel and a general wipe down. My carry guns I run dry in the striker channel. With clean grease there is no way this increases friction. I'm not talking about a lot that could add drag. Just a very thin layer. Grease has higher film strength than oil. On areas where there is a fair amount of stress on a small surface area it can make a big difference. But realistically, we are not talking about much of a difference either way. If you do grease, it needs to be cleaned regularly.
On my 35K round G34 I cleaned it regularly for abut 28K rounds. Then began an experiment. No cleanings. I finally cleaned it because of light strikes. The greased striker had a lot of crap in the channel. So you do raise a good point that I should have better explained. Thank you.
To the OP. I've got a light work day, so I went down and took a pic of my Wife's G4 G34 on the left and my G4 G35 on the right.
My G35 has about 4000 rounds through it, my wifes gun has about 1000. Neither show any wear on the striker face.
Interestingly, a burr has been raised on the left hand side of the face of the sear on my gun. Its on the right side of the pic on the right gun. I don't know how it happened, but its interesting none the less. I'll stone it off and see if it comes back. Either way, you can see that my 4000 round gun doesn't look nearly as beat up as yours.
While I was down there I did a quick trigger pull check with my Lyman digital gauge. All are Gen 4. The G26 and 19 are box stock other than a polishing of all the bearing surfaces including the striker safety plunger.
G26 - 6.1 lbs
G19 - 5.7 lbs
G34 - 4.1 lbs 4.5# spring
G35 - 3.4 lbs. 4# spring
Other thougths. I use federal primers so the 4# spring works fine.
The pull weight is very dependent on where on the trigger you put the pull bar. The lower the bar, the longer the lever arm, the lighter the weight. Some people "cheat" and put the bar at the bottom of the trigger. I don't. I put it about 2/3 down right at the bottom of the "inner" trigger. This is where most of my finger pressure is concentrated.
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There is no such thing as a hair trigger with a glock.
If you can shoot, then give it a shot. It would be cheaper and more likely to be solved first time if you sent it to glock. But doing it yourself is probably faster.
Don
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Just out of curiosity, do you have stock trigger parts other than springs?
^^this
i keep striker channel as clean as possible....no need for lubes in there.
ive seen people put gobs of frog lube or other greasy shit all over the striker channel and it just makes me cringe.
glocks especially since they have a plastic channel liner, theres absolutely no need for lube in there since the only metal contact is the pin hitting the primer which is a good thing IMO.
ToddDubya
NES Member
It looks ****ed to me. Maybe it's a funny angle or something but that thing should be a lot smoother. If you have access to another one, swap trigger bars and see if it smooths things out.
D
Deleted member 12999
I don't know if it's just weird angle or bad pics... but your gun looks FUBAR. Take it to someone who knows Glocks to take a look at it.
