Canik TTI failure to return to battery.

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Sam P

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Have any of you highly skilled gun guys figured out this problem yet? The first Canik TTI I had a failure to return to battery and failure to fire I sent it back to the factory they sent me a new one. The second one has the exact same problems, they sent me a new heavier recoil spring that didn't help. I purchased a custom spring kit which included a striker spring, and a recoil spring this didn't help either. I saw a video online every time it has a failure to fire the striker is hitting the safety block which damages the striker tip. Sure, enough when I removed the striker it was damaged. The gun will shoot 2 magazines fine then I will start having the problem randomly maybe 1 time out of 13. It seems to get worse as I shoot faster. This gun has been out awhile now I can't belief a skilled armorer hasn't figured this out yet. Do any of you guys have any Ideas as to what is going on here. Canik says once you go past basic field strip which I did by removing the striker the warranty is void so before I turn it into a 1,000 $ paperweight I would like to try to fix it. Thanks
 
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Weird. Have had no issues with mine or other Caniks. Isn’t there another thread here about a person having an issue with their TTI canik?
 
LittleCalm said:
Isn’t there another thread here about a person having an issue with their TTI canik?
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yes, there is... I'm not sure if it was resolved.

Sam P said:
Canik says once you go past basic field strip which I did by removing the striker the warranty is void so before I turn it into a 1,000 $ paperweight I would like to try to fix it. Thanks
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that sucks!!!!!!!
 
Sam P said:
Have any of you highly skilled gun guys figured out this problem yet? The first Canik TTI I had a failure to return to battery and failure to fire I sent it back to the factory they sent me a new one. The second one has the exact same problems, they sent me a new heavier recoil spring that didn't help. I purchased a custom spring kit which included a striker spring, and a recoil spring this didn't help either. I saw a video online every time it has a failure to fire the striker is hitting the safety block which damages the striker tip. Sure, enough when I removed the striker it was damaged. The gun will shoot 2 magazines fine then I will start having the problem randomly maybe 1 time out of 13. It seems to get worse as I shoot faster. This gun has been out awhile now I can't belief a skilled armorer hasn't figured this out yet. Do any of you guys have any Ideas as to what is going on here. Canik says once you go past basic field strip which I did by removing the striker the warranty is void so before I turn it into a 1,000 $ paperweight I would like to try to fix it. Thanks
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So did you clean up the burr on the striker edge?
 
Sam P said:
Yes same problem.
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Are you going to be near Hopkinton at all Saturday afternoon? I had a TTI Combat, but I personally didn’t like the way it felt (I had zero issues with it) I shoot the Rival S which has basically all of the same parts that could possibly cause your issues and I’ve had numerous issues that I have basically fixed with spring changes. I believe there is inherently a poor design of the extractor that truly causes most of the issues. If you want to swing over to Hopkinton in the afternoon after we shoot a match, I’ll take a look at it. Just PM me.
 
KH56010 said:
Are you going to be near Hopkinton at all Saturday afternoon? I had a TTI Combat, but I personally didn’t like the way it felt (I had zero issues with it) I shoot the Rival S which has basically all of the same parts that could possibly cause your issues and I’ve had numerous issues that I have basically fixed with spring changes. I believe there is inherently a poor design of the extractor that truly causes most of the issues. If you want to swing over to Hopkinton in the afternoon after we shoot a match, I’ll take a look at it. Just PM me.
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Thank you I will let you know.
 
Sam P said:
I

If the extractor was bad why wouldn't it fail all the time.
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It's the height of the extractor. Basically, if you look at the "hook" of the extractor, it grabs onto the side of the cartridge. When you fire the pistol and the recoil starts to do its magic, the barrel unlocks and slides down to allow the slide to retract back. This moves the cartridge down on the hook of the extractor. The hook of the extractor then loses grip of the case and you get an FTE. Pistols like the M&P have a much larger hook that doesn't lose grip. My fix has been to install a extra power CZ extractor spring to prevent the hook from losing grip on the casing. But the issue there is that for the first couple hundred of rounds you'll get failure to feeds and after 5-8,000 rounds the extractor wears through its hardened coating and starts failing again. If they made an extractor that literally had a hook that went down another couple thousands of an inch. You could run a lighter extractor spring and basically solve all feeding and extractor issues.

Now that is all for the Rival S. All the pistols use the same exact extractor, but for all I know, maybe the Rival S has a machining issue and all the other pistols have it so that the extractor is actually a little lower on the slide. But, then we come to the striker. The striker block hits the striker during firing, it's an easy fix. Just a little bit of filing. It also has an insane striker spring. It's something crazy like 8 pounds. Bring that right down to 5.5 pounds to improve most feeding issues.
 
KH56010 said:
It's the height of the extractor. Basically, if you look at the "hook" of the extractor, it grabs onto the side of the cartridge. When you fire the pistol and the recoil starts to do its magic, the barrel unlocks and slides down to allow the slide to retract back. This moves the cartridge down on the hook of the extractor. The hook of the extractor then loses grip of the case and you get an FTE. Pistols like the M&P have a much larger hook that doesn't lose grip. My fix has been to install a extra power CZ extractor spring to prevent the hook from losing grip on the casing. But the issue there is that for the first couple hundred of rounds you'll get failure to feeds and after 5-8,000 rounds the extractor wears through its hardened coating and starts failing again. If they made an extractor that literally had a hook that went down another couple thousands of an inch. You could run a lighter extractor spring and basically solve all feeding and extractor issues.

Now that is all for the Rival S. All the pistols use the same exact extractor, but for all I know, maybe the Rival S has a machining issue and all the other pistols have it so that the extractor is actually a little lower on the slide. But, then we come to the striker. The striker block hits the striker during firing, it's an easy fix. Just a little bit of filing. It also has an insane striker spring. It's something crazy like 8 pounds. Bring that right down to 5.5 pounds to improve most feeding issues.
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I don't have any feeding or ejection issues. My problem is failure to return to battery and failure to fire. Also have striker damage because it is hitting the safety stop.
 
The striker block issue seems like it would be an easy fix by just removing a bit of material where it is evidently prematurely contacting the striker before clearing it. There's a lot of travel/contact in that mechanism so it's not really a critical dimensional interface that would fail to function with only a small clearance change. Could also be the front nub/ramp on the trigger bar being at fault and material could alternatively be removed there.

The ratio of weight between the striker spring and recoil spring would be my first guess as to the failure to return to battery, particularly as mentioned if these have a particularly heavy striker spring. I can see where they'd have sent you a heavier recoil spring as a remedy. Since the momentum of the returning slide along with the recoil spring has to overcome the striker spring being cocked on the way into battery, you'd want a heavier recoil spring and lighter striker spring, not sure what your custom spring kit supplied but you may want to check to see if maybe both are lighter. Possibly use the heavier Canik recoil spring in combination with the kit striker spring, assuming it's lighter than the factory one.
Another possible contributing factor could be if there's a burr or bend or something on the extractor claw that interferes with the case rim sliding in behind it...
 
wcorey said:
The striker block issue seems like it would be an easy fix by just removing a bit of material where it is evidently prematurely contacting the striker before clearing it. There's a lot of travel/contact in that mechanism so it's not really a critical dimensional interface that would fail to function with only a small clearance change. Could also be the front nub/ramp on the trigger bar being at fault and material could alternatively be removed there.

The ratio of weight between the striker spring and recoil spring would be my first guess as to the failure to return to battery, particularly as mentioned if these have a particularly heavy striker spring. I can see where they'd have sent you a heavier recoil spring as a remedy. Since the momentum of the returning slide along with the recoil spring has to overcome the striker spring being cocked on the way into battery, you'd want a heavier recoil spring and lighter striker spring, not sure what your custom spring kit supplied but you may want to check to see if maybe both are lighter. Possibly use the heavier Canik recoil spring in combination with the kit striker spring, assuming it's lighter than the factory one.
Another possible contributing factor could be if there's a burr or bend or something on the extractor claw that interferes with the case rim sliding in behind it...
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Spring kit was made to fix this problem in this gun. The striker spring is lighter and the recoil spring is heavier. Why would the problem be intermittent. Seems to be fine when gun is cold. Starts failing after about 20 or 30 rounds.
 
Sam P said:
Spring kit was made to fix this problem in this gun. The striker spring is lighter and the recoil spring is heavier. Why would the problem be intermittent. Seems to be fine when gun is cold. Starts failing after about 20 or 30 rounds.
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Weird issue for sure. Odd too in that it's more typical for mechanical stuff like this to get loose with more heat, not tighter.
Next thing I'd be looking at then is barrel lockup, something a bit too tight that gets maybe tighter with heat expansion, potentially troublesome to figure out as so many surfaces can be contact points. Most Caniks I've messed with the chamber end of the barrel has a small amount of wiggle at lockup.
Maybe see how much movement there is cold and if it goes away when hot?
Can you feel anything different In that last bit of slide travel from cold to when it's hot?
Something must be binding up somewhere that gets aggravated with heat...
 
Once again if it was too tight at lockup it would fail all the time. After it fails it might fire 5 in a row before it fails again.
 
Have you checked to see if it’s possibly a magazine over insertion issue? Very common on all new Caniks. Causes multiple different issues. Good chance your slide is catching on top of magazine. Easy way to check is rest the pistol on a bench with magazine inserted and rack the slide.
 
caniks have trash QC, why anyone would buy a turk gun is beyond me. i hope you're not counting on that POS to possibly save your life one day.
 
Canik TTI: is that the one with ceracoted slide? If so, I suggest checking the slide face or whatever that part of the slide is called. Basically, the flat surface of the slide that pushed up against the back of case. That surface needs to bee utterly clean of any paint. I have seen guns(two Glocks with custom slides to be exact) become unreliable because the slide face had a layer of paint. The paint acts like a brake and slows down slides movement forward.
Take a flat file and file the face until its nice and clean and has no paint anywhere. Incidentally, this also addresses any manufacturing defects where the surface is milled incorrectly(single CNC move command, instead of multiple) which is rather common mistake from Turkish manufacturers.
 
These assorted problems (Sam's and others) with Canik's supposed top flagship offering are awfully discouraging to read about after I gave up on my principles and bought my first Canik pistol about a year ago. Going way back, I wanted nothing to do with Canik. With 50 years of pistol shooting experience, I was totally unimpressed with what practically everyone else was saying was the best thing since sliced bread and beer in bottles. But late last year, I gave in to the hype and bought my first cheap Turkish plastic gun. All I can say is glad now it was not the TTI model... which (fortunately for me) wasn't quite out yet. 🤔

Still unimpressed, but at least not crying in my beer. 😥
 
S107 said:
Have you checked to see if it’s possibly a magazine over insertion issue? Very common on all new Caniks. Causes multiple different issues. Good chance your slide is catching on top of magazine. Easy way to check is rest the pistol on a bench with magazine inserted and rack the slide.
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Thanks I will try this.
 
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