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Calipers sticking

Discussion in 'Off-Topic' started by Stape, Jun 27, 2019.

  1. Stape

    Stape

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    Problem: The front calipers on my truck are intermittently sticking. Got home yesterday from a quick trip into town and the front left was smoking. Didnt notice it until I pulled into my drive. Jacked the truck up and couldnt barely move the front left wheel. Tried the front right and it was pretty stiff. Both rims were hot but the left was sizzling hot.

    This happened to my rear brakes back in the fall. Every n ow and then the rear left would stick slightly. Not enough to notice driving, but when you stopped, you could hear and smell the crackling of heat. So, I redid my rear brakes, calipers, rotors and pads on both sides. Now the front is doing it.

    Truck is a 2005 F-350. Are these trucks known to shit through brakes? I drive like a grandma and the truck sees about 5-6K miles a year, its seldom worked hard.

    Before I order a set of calipers rotors and pads for the front, is there anything else I should consider? What are the odds of both front calipers sticking? Or, it the left one sticks, will or can that affect the other side sticking in some fluid distribution type thing? Is there some valve or something that could be holding the brake pressure and not releasing it causing the pads to stay engaged?

    FWIW once I did the rear brakes I havent had a problem since. Shop that did the brakes before I got the truck does shit work, and had just done a full brake job when my caliper fell off going down the road. I figure this is just another fix to the poor work they did, or are these trucks prone to this?
     

  2. TrashcanDan

    TrashcanDan NES Member

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    Its not uncommon for the caliper slides to stick or seize up, and if its an '05, its probably the caliper pistons anyways.
    There was an issue years back with the caliper lines collapsing, and not letting the calipers decompress. I doubt thats it.
    Do it all at once.
     
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  3. sieveboy

    sieveboy NES Member

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    Calipers seizing is a pretty common problem. Open the bleeder, if it stays stuck it’s the caliper. If it releases it’s the hose. In any case, I’d replace the hoses as it’s a 2005 along with the usual stuff.
     
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  4. PaulR

    PaulR NES Member

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    I've got an 05 F150, maybe a lighter duty brake on mine than yours, but similar design I bet.
    Yes I laughed at the brakes the first time I took the tires off and did them 11 years ago.
    My RR caliper sticks often, but I've been too lazy to change it, just put $700 worth of front end parts last fall, few rotors here and there.
    I'm stupid like that tho, I replaced the RR rotor and left the sticky caliper.

    I've had good luck in other vehicles just working them free and they go back to working pretty well.

    Prob not both seized at the "exact" same time, you just happened to notice both since you were in there.

    Let me know what you get for a price on calipers.
     
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  5. Asaltweapon

    Asaltweapon NES Member

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    Every SD owner I know goes thru this on a regular basis. The fact that you don't use it often only makes the problem worse.
     
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  6. Stape

    Stape

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    Thanks all. Figured it was just that simple.. But, never know, could be a valve diverter off the master block that routes fluid to the canooder petcock or something I just didnt know about.

    I could go cheap and just rebuild the calipers or upgrade the slide pins but id rather just slap new everything on and be done with it and not have to worry about it.

    Paul, Ive been getting all of my parts for all of my cars from Rock Auto for the past few years. Been very satisfied with the price and quality. A front kit, which includes two rotors, re-manufactured OEM calipers and ceramic pads is looking like $193.00
     
  7. Stape

    Stape

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    Yea, thats what I've been reading. I drive it at least once a week, if only for the sake of driving it. It sees more use in the summer with all the fishing I do, towing my boat, but usually its a weekend warrior, trips to lowes, hauling firewood and whatnot.
     
  8. GomerPile

    GomerPile

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    The past 2 times I have done brakes on my jeep and tacoma I wished I had just bought rotors, pads, calipers and brake lines. Once the stuff is rusted beyond recognition I think its better to just do it all.

    From partsgeek it would have been $300 in parts for the front. And it would have gone together in just a couple hours. Instead, I ended up making two trips to the parts store because one caliper was sticky. The parts store sold me bad parts it was a total pain in the ass.

    My advice is rip it all out and replace with new parts.
     
  9. tripletaco

    tripletaco NES Member

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    Just replace everything up front and you should be good to go. I vaguely recall a friend with a similar year Ford 250/350, and it being hard on brakes. Try to get good parts. I find a lot of replacement parts out there these days are just garbage. Things they used to take a core on are now just wholly manufactured new in china. Had a rear wheel cylinder where the casting just cracked apart when I tightened the fitting. The material they are making a lot of these rotors from is just absolute junk. Unless I "gotta have it now" I prefer to order parts from Rockauto.
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2019
  10. tripletaco

    tripletaco NES Member

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    [thumbsup]
     
  11. M1911

    M1911 Moderator NES Member

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    Calipers seized regularly on my old ‘03 4Runner. I must have replaced the calipers three times on each axle.
     
  12. Stape

    Stape

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    Well, its refreshing to see it not just me lol. Whenever I do any kind of work, I like to do it completely and usually as a set, instead of just the symptom. If one side went bad, how far away is the other side from crapping out? But I'll put as good of parts as I feel it needs. I dont skimp but I'm not going to be putting in some whamabam slotted and cross drilled rotors or anything like that.
     
  13. mwalsh9152

    mwalsh9152

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    This. I just put all 4 corner pads, rotors, and calipers, and original rear hoses on last fall. I've replaced a caliper or three over the years because it used to sit way too much.

    You need to force yourself to take it for a ride every week or so. Mine might only go to the dump, but its enough to keep everything free
     
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  14. Coda

    Coda NES Member

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    Obviously replacing everything would be a sure fix. But if you want to save some $$$ there is something else you could try.

    Remove the calipers (not the hose) and spray the piston with some PB Blaster. Let it soak into the seal. Compress the piston all the way with a C clamp, remove C clamp then push your brake pedal to extend the piston back out. Repeat this process 4 or 5 times. Clean and lube you slides with caliper grease. Make sure they glide smoothly. Sometimes the pad ears need a little grinding/polishing to move freely.

    I have had success saving calipers doing this. If it doesn’t work you are only out some time. Then go ahead and start replacing parts.
     
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  15. whatluck

    whatluck

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    I would take everything apart and clean it, but Im a cheap sob.
     
  16. radioman

    radioman NES Member

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    Make sure you flush out that old nasty
    fluid while you’re in there.
    Most people never do this and
    it can cause trouble. Cheap insurance.
     
  17. Stape

    Stape

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    I can be pretty frugal and I'm not one to just throw money at problems, but silly things like brakes (being sarcastic here) I'll pony up and do them the best way I can. I'm not Mr. Money bags, but after the core charge, its around $200 for everything, thats pretty hard to beat for what you get and piece of mind. I've got a lot of projects on hold now cause my truck is down, so right now time IS more important than the money, well kinda, I can go into my local parts house and get everything but that'd be around $500, so theres a balance here lol
     
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  18. Stape

    Stape

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    I flushed the system when I did my rear brakes 6mo ago, but I'll do it again when I do the front since I gotta bleed them anyway and I'm already in there, plus I bought a yuuge bottle of fluid last time so I got plenty.
     
  19. mibro

    mibro NES Member

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    I sometimes rebuild calipers instead of replacing them just because I feel like doing it. The original equipment parts are usually better quality than the Chinesium replacements.

    An ideal brake caliper would have two bleeders, one at the top to bleed air and one at the bottom to bleed water-contaminated fluid. There's no good way to get that water-contaminated fluid out other than a good flush with a lot of brake fluid. A film of rust forms usually on the bottom of the piston which eventually prevents the piston from retracting. A failed piston boot which allows water/salt to attack the outer end of the piston will also prevent the piston from retracting.
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2019
  20. dingbat

    dingbat NES Member

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    If your vehicle has ABS, open the bleeder before pushing the pots back in. Pushing brake fluid back through the system can damage the ABS module.
     
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  21. Spanz

    Spanz NES Member

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    And check the rubber boot if there is one, for a hole. Salt water and pistons do bot mix
     
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  22. PaulR

    PaulR NES Member

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    What coda said.
    If you're cheap errr I mean frugal, like us, a lot of these parts can have a lot of life left on them. Work them free, clean them up, reinstall.

    Ditto x10 on whomever said a lot of new parts are junk these days.
    Gone through three 4x4 Vacuum Solonoids in the past year.

    While I may rework the sticky caliper, I'll skip the cheap brake pads and go right to the ceramic ones.

    More and more parts and tools I buy these days I find are broken right out of the box.
     
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