Bullet questions for cast and copper plated.

[Bigtuna]

Trying to select bullets to get started. I've got a LNL AP on the way and using Hornady dies. I'll be loading 9mm, 380, 38sp, 357. I'm looking to make fairly cheap reloads, but also want to be nice to my handguns. I do a lot of range time and my guns get pretty good use. I'd like to join Pelham F&G soon and their indoor range does not allow FMJ. Was an issue previously, now with doing my own reloads I can make what I need.

There are tons of different types of cast bullets (including moly coated) and copper plated. Was hoping someone could shed some light on which bullets to stay away from or maybe some recommendations on which would might be best for my purposes (lots of range shooting, non FMJ) and keep from messing up my guns.

Cast bullets seem cheapest and available in plenty of weights and shapes. Are there concerns with leading? Which would be best to prevent, lubed/coated? Good for both semis and revolvers (38sp/357)?

Copper Plated seem cheap enough, but I didn't see as much variety and none seemed to have a cannelure for the roll crimp, are these still ok to crimp for .357 revolver loads?

Are the Hornady New Dimension die sets ok to crimp for semi auto? Read they do more of a roll crimp and semi auto needs a taper crimp.

Trying to do as much research as I can before making purchases and could use some help in filling in the blanks. If anyone has some good sources for bulk reloading supplies and willing to share, I'd appreciate a PM Thanks for helping me get started.

 

[Fixxah]

If you slug the bbls and go .002" oversize, leading shouldn't be an issue. YMMV depending on what loads you develop. I shoot hundreds between cleaning my 1911 and there is only minute traces of lead.

You will eventually cast what works best for your guns. This is the least expensive ammo you can make.

It's addicting for sure. I just finished sizing 79lbs of truncated 230g for my 45.

 

[supton]

What guns are they? If they lead up, it's just a lot of work to scrub them out, isn't it? If it takes say 100 rounds to build up a layer of lead, perhaps limiting to just 50 rounds per session, then clean, would be acceptable? [Just postulating that even if leading is an issue, it's not that great of an issue. I mean, people shot non-FMJ for a long time in revolvers. I see quite a few boxes of 500 bullets; buying one and dealing with the resultant issues until you figure it out can't cost that much money, if it's the wrong path I mean.]

I have read that shooting FMJ can be effective at cleaning out guns (presumably not at full house loads); dunno if you could pop over to the outside range (does Pelham have one? Don't know the place) every so often, before the deposits get thick.

 

[Fixxah]

The FMJ trick is BS from what I've read.

You will find a wealth of answers a Castboolits.gunloads.com

 

[swampy]

If your shooting Glocks or Walthers you'll have issues with leading as their rifling isn't lead friendly. For those use plated bullets. Everything else should be fine with cast bullets. The velocities aren't that high with target loads so you shouldn't have problems with any lubed bullets. If you choose plated bullets you have to take it easy crimping them as the plating will crush with too much crimp. If you plan on loading any lead bullets for full velocity magnums a gas checked bullet should be considered. You don't need to worry about that now though.

124 gr LRN (lead round nose) are pretty much universal for 9mm. I like 148 gr DEWC for 38special. I won't load DEWC for .357 MAG so they don't end up in a 38 special that might not handle the pressure. The DEWC loads flush or nearly flush with the case mouth. Always load .357 mag with a full bullet to get a full length cartridge for safety reason. I like using a semi jacketed 125 grain hollow point for .357 mag but I also load 158 grain cast in either a round nose or SWC (semi wad cutter). There aren't many selections for .380. I don't load .380 but if I did I might lean towards a plated bullet just to make them easier to keep separate from 9mms.

 

[NavelOfficer]

Casting your own gives you the greatest range of choices, but it is labor, time and equipment-intensive. Not an issue if you enjoy it and want to do it yourself.
That said, Berry's (usually stocked at Cabela's) plated bullets are fairly economical and varied. As a matter of fact, I just loaded up a box of their 185g HBRN in .45 ACP; very consistent and well-made product. These must have been the double-strike variety looking at the base of the bullets.
Precision Delta offers limited styles at about the best bulk rate. http://precisiondelta.com/
Classifieds on this and other gun sites can be a bargain source for all bullet styles; just keep your eyes open and act fast!
Another totally lead-free consideration: SinterFire frangibles (http://sinterfire.com/; frangibleammo.com is their sales website). Not the lowest-priced, but you eliminate lead issues and reduce ricochet hazards. Some ranges will even allow rifle calibers with frangible ammo only!
As to the Hornady dies, adjust for the crimp and verify what it does. You don't want any roll crimp on semi-auto ammunition or on any cartridge that headspaces on the case mouth. Generally, you may flare a case mouth to allow for bullet lead-in and to avoid chaffing cast bullets. The taper crimp is used to restore the flare back to the nominal case dimension, be it jacketed, cast and especially frangibles, which do not get crimped at all due to their brittle nature. (Some earlier renderings of frangibles have a crimp groove, but give it too much and ... crack!)

 

[stencil]

Always load .357 mag with a full bullet to get a full length cartridge for safety reason. .

this to prevent them from being presented to a .38 Special revolver, or is there some other factor involved?
.

 

[cobblepot]

I load 357 and 38spl. I use Berry's copper plated 158gr flat point with a light crimp. I have crimped them pretty hard and then pulled them to check and the plating did not cut. Berry uses a soft swaged bullet under the plating and it seems to work fine. I also load 158gr round nose flat point hard cast lead from Reloadsn'more. If you don't push them too fast you won't have any leading and they are nice, accurate and affordable.

 

[Bigtuna]

Thanks guys for all the info. I'll try some of the Berrys plated in the 9mm, 380 and 38sp. Maybe stick with FMJ for 357 loads. Lot to learn about this stuff, but kinda fun. Bought a Lee taper crimp die for the 9mm, 380.

 

[swampy]

Yes, to keep from loading a .357 magnum load into a 38 special that could self destruct with the magnum load. You can't guaranty your rounds won't end up in someone elses hands.

this to prevent them from being presented to a .38 Special revolver, or is there some other factor involved?
.