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Bullet Casting PID Temperature Controller


I'm pretty certain I know why your unit is off on the temp - I think I swapped the two wire types (Chromel vs Alumel) when I wired the controller to the TC socket on the front. Let me know when yo u can spare it for a couple of days and I'll pick it up and fix it.

The autotune adjusts the four main parameters that tune the control (P, I, D and integrator reset) - it only needs to be done once and should be good for a decent range in lead alloy temps.
If your pot holds temps well and doesn't overshoot badly when adding ingots after an autotune - don't mess with it further. If you want to play around, write down the four values and make 25% changes in ONE variable at a time to see what happens. Don't hesitate to ask me if you have a question on tuning.

If you want to move the controller between processes - write down the tune values for each one and put in the saved values when you attach the controller to a different process (melt pot, toaster oven for coating, heat treat oven, etc). No need to autotune unless you have made a big change in the process (like coating half or twice the weight in bullets) and temps aren't controlled well.

The cycle time is the 'r' setting right after the integrator reset (Ar) - I set it to 2 seconds. If the buzz from the heater bothers you, you can adjust this up but will need to rerun autotune. Going too high will cause temperature overshoot because the controller can't react faster than the cycle time.

I also go into the hidden menu (COD) and turn off the display filtering so you see the actual temperature variations (the filtering hides small variances).

Manual (covers other models so not every setting is available)
 
I'm pretty certain I know why your unit is off on the temp - I think I swapped the two wire types (Chromel vs Alumel) when I wired the controller to the TC socket on the front. Let me know when yo u can spare it for a couple of days and I'll pick it up and fix it.

The autotune adjusts the four main parameters that tune the control (P, I, D and integrator reset) - it only needs to be done once and should be good for a decent range in lead alloy temps.
If your pot holds temps well and doesn't overshoot badly when adding ingots after an autotune - don't mess with it further. If you want to play around, write down the four values and make 25% changes in ONE variable at a time to see what happens. Don't hesitate to ask me if you have a question on tuning.

If you want to move the controller between processes - write down the tune values for each one and put in the saved values when you attach the controller to a different process (melt pot, toaster oven for coating, heat treat oven, etc). No need to autotune unless you have made a big change in the process (like coating half or twice the weight in bullets) and temps aren't controlled well.

The cycle time is the 'r' setting right after the integrator reset (Ar) - I set it to 2 seconds. If the buzz from the heater bothers you, you can adjust this up but will need to rerun autotune. Going too high will cause temperature overshoot because the controller can't react faster than the cycle time.

I also go into the hidden menu (COD) and turn off the display filtering so you see the actual temperature variations (the filtering hides small variances).

Manual (covers other models so not every setting is available)
yeah thats the " complicated " manual I found. I will try to find the easy one and link it. Like I said it seems to be working great so Im not worried about it.
I have the complete opposite of OCD, called ehwhatevahf***itgoodenoughitis
 
@pastera @pinebrother1 @mac1911 @Michael J. Spangler
@Jbarila
@01SVTvert
Getting ready to do this. I already have wire, terminal strips, solderless connectors, fuse block, extension cord, toggle switch, and mounting box. Are the below components adequate or would you change something. I figure the 25A is enough for the SSR and a 100mm/4" thermocouple prope is long enough for my Lee Production Pot (the small one). I am also wiring the thermocouple rather than with a jack. Thanks.

Amazon product ASIN B0087ZTN08View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087ZTN08/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=jr0511-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B0087ZTN08&linkId=7575ae3ac23a949a564d780a1334b946


Amazon product ASIN B07PR1499HView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PR1499H/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AGOSLUO29ZUJ2&psc=1


Amazon product ASIN B005NGL4KGView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NGL4KG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1BREQ8I6OHSBG&psc=1
 
Last edited:
@pastera @pinebrother1 @mac1911 @Michael J. Spangler
@Jbarila
@01SVTvert
Getting ready to do this. I already have wire, terminal strips, solderless connectors, fuse block, extension cord, toggle switch, and mounting box. Are the below components adequate or would you change something. I figure the 25A is enough for the SSR and a 100mm/4" thermocouple prope is long enough for my Lee Production Pot (the small one). I am also wiring the thermocouple rather than with a jack. Thanks.

Amazon product ASIN B0087ZTN08View: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0087ZTN08/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=jr0511-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B0087ZTN08&linkId=7575ae3ac23a949a564d780a1334b946


Amazon product ASIN B07PR1499HView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PR1499H/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AGOSLUO29ZUJ2&psc=1


Amazon product ASIN B005NGL4KGView: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NGL4KG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1BREQ8I6OHSBG&psc=1
Looks like what you need
Biggest thing to look for is if the controller is actually a SSR output
 
I used the same exact controller and relay setup to control a water bath for my film developing chemicals. The relay turns on an electric water heater element. It's been running without a hitch for 4-5 years now.
 
Running the auto-tune on the PID. Unsure how long it will take. All the Temps seem to correlate well, unsure which is the most accurate. Before the auto-tune, Rotometals is at 680, Lyman digital is at 701 and the PID was 708 degrees F.

20210521_170531.jpg
 
Running the auto-tune on the PID. Unsure how long it will take. All the Temps seem to correlate well, unsure which is the most accurate. Before the auto-tune, Rotometals is at 680, Lyman digital is at 701 and the PID was 708 degrees F.

View attachment 484788
I set mine at 550'F and waited to see what happened. Checking with my lyman, DVMM and the pid controller. I turned it up in 25' steps until I got a full melt. My anolog and dvmm both showed with in 5 degrees of my pid. I set it to 700 and not touched it since. I have casted only a few pots since then.
 
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