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Bullet Casting & Coating MegaThread

Demoman said:
Love the wind break great idea will have to find one
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I had a old furnace outer shell before but it vanished, I think in one of the storms a while back it must have blown out near the street.
This new one is the tub from my old dishwasher. Works well.

you should use a wind block it contains a lot of heat.
It will shorten the tine to melt and makes a good shelf to pre warm your ignot molds.
 
mac1911 said:
Old lead melter , goes with the old pot I got last year.
The pump feels like it still works.
Just need to clean it up and figure out how it works
Its. Bell Systems —-only thing written on it
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So I cleaned it out got the old fuel out and gave it a bath. I was able to test the seals on the fuel tank. 25psi of compressed air , smothered in soapy water and found no leaks. Thats good. I did manage to get the pump working for a bit and was getting air flow through the fuel nozzle/jet.
The pump seal is old style felt/leather and if I flare it out a bit it will pump for a while , spring also appears to be broken or worn , I see no way that the pump should lock in anyway. I also think the pump is the fuel regulator. I might possibly have a seal from a air rifle that might work and I think the spring is to just keep you from slaming the pump on the up stroke.
The internal seal that lets the air into the fuel tank is in pretty good shape and works just like the pump air rifle valve. Spring and back preasure push seal against the port.

maybe if I can find a place that does old school pump fuel lanterns and such I could get a seal that works
 

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mac1911 said:
So I cleaned it out got the old fuel out and gave it a bath. I was able to test the seals on the fuel tank. 25psi of compressed air , smothered in soapy water and found no leaks. Thats good. I did manage to get the pump working for a bit and was getting air flow through the fuel nozzle/jet.
The pump seal is old style felt/leather and if I flare it out a bit it will pump for a while , spring also appears to be broken or worn , I see no way that the pump should lock in anyway. I also think the pump is the fuel regulator. I might possibly have a seal from a air rifle that might work and I think the spring is to just keep you from slaming the pump on the up stroke.
The internal seal that lets the air into the fuel tank is in pretty good shape and works just like the pump air rifle valve. Spring and back preasure push seal against the port.

maybe if I can find a place that does old school pump fuel lanterns and such I could get a seal that works
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Cleaned up pretty well but pump seal failed and split so need a pump seal.
 

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Demoman said:
Why couldn't you use another gasket material
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Its a formed cup, I tried forming some old gasket material , did not work.
I found a cup seal that might work at ild coleman parts.
Good source of parts if your still using old pump up fuel equipment

Old Coleman Parts > Categories

- Coleman Gear in Action - Jack in Virginia got a dusting of snow that stirred up the Christmas spirit.
www.oldcolemanparts.com www.oldcolemanparts.com
 
I was test some 8mm over the weekend and I was picking up my cases and I noticed what I think to be some lead getting shaved off. This is only happening in one gun and I know I have enough of a bell so it’s not happening during seating.
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BFDX7 said:
I was test some 8mm over the weekend and I was picking up my cases and I noticed what I think to be some lead getting shaved off. This is only happening in one gun and I know I have enough of a bell so it’s not happening during seating.
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Hmmm try chambering a dummy a few times to see if anything is shaving during chambering.
 
BFDX7 said:
I was test some 8mm over the weekend and I was picking up my cases and I noticed what I think to be some lead getting shaved off. This is only happening in one gun and I know I have enough of a bell so it’s not happening during seating.
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Even made it to the neck/shoulder and you formed it nicely. Any chance your bullets are a bit over sized or a shallow ogivevand your craming the lead/throat?
Also look for the bullet scraping on the way into the chamber.
 
Okay I’ll take a few of them and chamber them to see if I get any shaving. They are sized to .325 and I still have to slug this bore. I’ve shot these in three other guns and this is the only one that I’ve seen this in. Good news it I’ve put about a 100 through with no leading. I’m giving this gun a good scrubbing after reading @mac1911 Garand posts. Very helpful by the way.
 
BFDX7 said:
Okay I’ll take a few of them and chamber them to see if I get any shaving. They are sized to .325 and I still have to slug this bore. I’ve shot these in three other guns and this is the only one that I’ve seen this in. Good news it I’ve put about a 100 through with no leading. I’m giving this gun a good scrubbing after reading @mac1911 Garand posts. Very helpful by the way.
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Sadly my k98 lost alot of rifling after cleaning. That how I ended up doing the 762 Nato barrel
Honeslty if you not getting lead and accuracy is acceptable leave it be.
You will uncover pitting that your going to spend time filling with lead/copper anyway.
If you want a accurate slug sure go ahead give it a deep cleaning
 
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mac1911 said:
Was able to do a pressure test today , hit 25psi and a leak showed at the pump to tank connection. Should be able to find a seal for that easy enough.
View attachment 494434
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Getting closer, new seals and it has pressure. I dont know what it needs to operate but I have 25psi . Now to give the tank insides a good cleaning
D3D576EC-8602-44F3-A69E-8D1383BCEB40.jpeg
 
TrashcanDan said:
Interesting.

So do you prime it once and it wicks out or do you need a steady X psi?
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Theres a cup inside you fill with fuel and light it. It heats up the “burner” just as that flames down you start pumping. Like a coleman stove. If the burner head is at temp as you pump the pressure up it ignites.
This model has no “control” valve
You just start pumping, as the flame goes down you pump it back up

heres a smaller version

View: https://youtu.be/Z_zRgcmSWh0
 
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mac1911 said:
Trying out the new wind block, my burner is on its last legs. Going to process the wheel weights from this little batch. Set the timer to see how long till full melt and poorView attachment 49170623 minutes from ignition to poor , not bad full melt was right around 15min
Burned 10oz of fuel
22lbs 8.50z finished product
Around 1 pound a minute?

so still potential for over 500lbs of lead processed on a 15lb tank.
You will more productive processing larger amounts. I could have most likely fit 50 plus pounds in this set up and it would have taken about the same time. Just wanted to get it done. Now I have no smelting to do until next spring.
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I gave my burner head a long over do cleaning. Amazing how much shit ends up in there. Burns much better now but Im due for something new/better

any recommendations
 
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Giving it a run
50lb 98% lead collar
Takes about 5-8 minutes for the burner to fire off . Not sure if it will get this junk hot enough? We will see
 

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That’s not bad at all. It’s nice to have a backup that isn’t propane dependent.
Now snag one of those big sealed Paul’s of kero from tractor supply for when the zombies (liberals) come to feed off of us.
 
This mold could possibly be as old as the Kerosene burner?
452488 small body mold. Needed small handles.
Spangler came through and hooked me up.
There was a little fitment issue but creative manipulation and some shims crammed in there its looking good.
Will drop a half of lee pot of these and load some up. Might have to go with a classic load of bullseye or other popular powder from 50 years ago.
I have some Herco thats from the 80s?
6F0B31E0-BD5B-4679-81F7-CD0BF298AB24.png FCA2B783-814E-4F8B-8354-7CC173A00BC8.png B084BAD8-86B3-416F-8BCF-44E17FE4055D.png
 
mac1911 said:
This mold could possibly be as old as the Kerosene burner?
452488 small body mold. Needed small handles.
Spangler came through and hooked me up.
There was a little fitment issue but creative manipulation and some shims crammed in there its looking good.
Will drop a half of lee pot of these and load some up. Might have to go with a classic load of bullseye or other popular powder from 50 years ago.
I have some Herco thats from the 80s?
View attachment 500600View attachment 500601View attachment 500602
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One of my buddies always uses that mould and I’m always surprised at how well it feeds in his 1911. It seemed to short and stumpy to me.
 
Today I had fun trying to explain to my friend how im not getting screwed doing blue Rhino exchange.
Starts with a shout from across the parking lot of walmart
Friend shouting : Hey MAC thought you dont shop at walmart
Me: laughing as he walks over . I said I avoid walmart unless I need something I know is a good deal or better deal.
Today that was oil for the lawn mowers and a BlueRhino exchange
The 5qt jugs are cheaper than what I can get wholesale through work.

Friend: “blue Rhino is a rip off tou only get 15lbs”
Me: “its not a rip off they say its only 15# and no one is forcing me to buy it”
Friend: “its cheaper to get it filled”
Me: “where”
Friend : “IDK”
Me laughing: “you don't even have a grill do you? When was the last time you filled a tank”
At this point he admits defeat and caught just talking shit. Offers to buy me coffee and off we go.
As we sit he says , Tractor Supply fills tanks . I say yes they do @3.59/gl and the only fill to 4gl, blue rhino has 3.6 gl in them.
Plus this is where it all comes together.

Tractor supply 3.59/gl and the one near me will only fill to 4 gal. Something about the tanks anti over fill valve damages their pumps?

tractor supply 14.36 for a 4 gal fill $3.59 gal
Blue Rhino. 13.97 for 3.6 gal $3.88 gal

So I would save .29 gallon or $1.16 on a 4 gal fill.

the fun part : tank was expired, nearest tractor supply is 45 min round trip
Tank was made in 5/91 had a re test stamp of 7/05 , dont know where this tank came from but it was on my grill when it went empty back in april. Im pretty sure I put it on there to use it up?
anyhow I have a newer tank ready to go. Maybe TS will have a deal or coupon on propane near the end of summer and I have tanks to fill?

so in the end I told my buddy I would pay him the $1.16 to run up to TS for me .

i also told him the 4 or 5 partially filled free tanks I got over the past year made up for any loss from blue Rhino

now when BR exchange is $15-$30 and the TS or propane fill spot is under $2.50 g and you have mire than one tank. Well then maybe the 45 min round trip is worth it
 
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I found a rusty tank in the woods. Not a speck of paint left on it. Probably been there since Christ was a corporal. I run down to Cumbies and swap it for a Blue Rhino. The kids that work there don't GAF.
Normally I do refills at the local hardware store. It's historically been a few cents cheaper to refill than swap at Cumbies. I haven't done the math lately.
 

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