building new AR

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tnmt_donkey

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I am recently thinking about building an AR-15.

Can I buy and use pre-ban upper for the build in Mass? and flash hider? (not pretty clear about the assult rifle rules)

and if the upper was for 5.56 nato, and I will use 223 remington.
would the rifle twist affect the bullet at long distance?( I noticed that 5.56 is a bit different than 223).

thanks for your info!
[smile]
 
You can only use a Pre Ban upper if you also have a Pre Ban Lower. 5.56 is usually 62 grain and .223 grains will very so using the right twist is dependant on what grain your planning on using.
 
The fun part about building a AR is deciding on end use. If I did it over I would just buy a off the shelf A2 rifle and see how much you love shooting it. Then see where your illness takes you. I built a few carbines I thought I would use in carbine type matc hes. Never happened so now i have a carbine with rails and lights,reddots that just sits.
 
The big difference with 5.56 vs .223 is 5.56 can be loaded to higher pressures and may not be safe in a .223 chamber, where as .223 is fine to shoot out of a 5.56 rifle. The weights of 5.56 will generally be 55 or 62 grain, and .223 is usually similar but can vary from around 45 to 75 give or take. A 1/7 twist rate is considered ideal to stabilize heavier bullets, but 1/8 and 1/9 should also be fine up to around 62gr, though your mileage may vary.

Mike
 
boo yeah!! build away man!! I'm addicted to it, I just wish my wallet could keep up.
I've built two in the past year.
I tend to like the heavy barrel in stainless steel. it makes them a bit beastly in weight but I really like shooting them. I built one for varmint hunting with a big ass 24" barrel and float tube chambered in .223. The other is a carbine style I guess you'd call it with a 16" stainless heavy barrel and the float tube instead of a rail or plastic hand guard chambered in 5.56. The only thing I wish I did with the last one is make it a vented float tube.
All in all it's fun and rewarding to build them, also building them allows you to make them exactly how you want it.
 
Well, do you have the specific tools yet? ie.. action block, and armorer's wrench? If not and you are nearby, you could use mine. I've assembled more than a few of em, and can give you a hand if need be. I will say that on a post ban lower reciever, a flash hider is a no go. If you are still weighing your options on what to pick out, I've got a 24" heavy setup, and an 18" that you can check out to help along the way. I'm getting ready to build another, a straight A2 profile in 7.62x39.
 
my goal is to build a sniper type. something similar to rancho's pic.
the upper I was looking at was 20" 1/9 twist for 5.56. so I think it is for mid-range. (I'm not trained professionally, no sure I can make real long-range shot.)
too bad I have to use pre-ban lower. I wanted to use larue lower.

but is flash hider allowed in MA? if not, I don't need to get the upper with threaded barrel. I can just build it with any post-ban part.
 
Well this is a 24" post ban configuration. Notice the target crown non threaded barrel.

DSC00078.jpg
 
If your going to build a "sniper" model build it with the end use being long shots with heavy bullets. I am not a long distance shooter by any means but I intend to try some long range shooting next year. It can get mind boggling on the AR building. Comes down to what you really want to do with it. Dont build a long range gun if you can only get to 100 yard range.

http://www.northeastshooters.com/vb...ad...-I-ll-show-you-mine-if-you-show-me-yours.
cruise through this and get some itchy itchies on what/what not you like.
 
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You can still get a threaded barrel, you just cant have a flash hider, you have to have a muzzle break permanently attached (pin/weld or silver solder). You can use any stripped lower you want, including LaRue. Now, if you have the funds to buy a pre-ban lower you can put any upper you want on it, including ones with those evil baby killing flash hiders and bayo-lugs.
 
+1 to what Mac said. You will feel pretty silly if you pony up more than $300 for a barrel, and can't even stretch its legs. You will find going after long range performance can get expensive very quickly. A $2500 - $3000 AR is a silly thing if you can't get to a range over 100 yards. And nevermind the price of good glass to be able to reach out far.
 
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I been all over the AR spectrum. I even built up a ruger 204cal varmit gun......mainly because I got a great deal on the parts. Then as it sit with out the funds for a nice scope and no where local to run it more than 100 yards. It sat unfired until the peak of obamascare. I sould off the upper to a friend moving out west. He reports plinking varmits with it @ 300 yards with easy. I also built up a few full tactical carbines with little use also. Now im back to basics and I just bought it as a complete rifle. RockRiverArms national match model.
 
Romokid said:
You can still get a threaded barrel, you just cant have a flash hider, you have to have a muzzle break permanently attached (pin/weld or silver solder). You can use any stripped lower you want, including LaRue. Now, if you have the funds to buy a pre-ban lower you can put any upper you want on it, including ones with those evil baby killing flash hiders and bayo-lugs.
Click to expand...

so it all comes down to the pre-ban lower? if so, I will go for it.
I like the uppers form JP enterprises, but I don't think I saw any threaded barrel on their site.

I am not marine sniper, I can't make a 1-mile-target. I am trying to make it around 400~600 yards for now, and having fun with my first build.
[smile]
 
JP rifle barrels are threaded 1/2x28 tpi. No biggie, as you can have them weld or pin the compensator if you want to just order an upper from them. They make very nice products. In fact all of my current AR's wear their handguard.
 
I've contemplated doing a side charger like that Mac, but I usually talk myself out of it because I don't want a reciprocating meat hammer on the side of my rifle.
 
I knew that supermoto, but they didn't when I was shopping last time around. It was when mega started the monolithic uppers. (roughly same time) And I was thinking the 6.5 would be awesome as a side charger, as I wouldn't have to come off the rifle to work the action. But, my tastes are swinging more traditional these days.
 
tnmt_donkey said:
my goal is to build a sniper type. something similar to rancho's pic.
the upper I was looking at was 20" 1/9 twist for 5.56. so I think it is for mid-range. (I'm not trained professionally, no sure I can make real long-range shot.)
too bad I have to use pre-ban lower. I wanted to use larue lower.

but is flash hider allowed in MA? if not, I don't need to get the upper with threaded barrel. I can just build it with any post-ban part.
Click to expand...

How do you define "mid-range?"
 
widnerkj said:
Jasons, don't you Marine's qualify at 500 yards with iron sights?
Click to expand...

We did when I was in, and as far as I know they still do today. It's really not a big deal - an off the rack AR is plenty accurate out to at least that range if you apply basic fundamentals. There are a bunch of active service rifle shooters in this area (many who are also on NES) who regularly compete out to 600 with irons that I think would say the same thing.

The reason I asked was because different people have different definitions of "mid-range." If I never left the 300 yard line I would build something a bit different than something that I would use primarily at 600.
 
Alright, we are getting a little distracted here. Back to the OP.
1.) Flash hiders are over rated. period.
2.) Weight of the bullet is critical for those wanting to push range to limits. So twist rate is a serious factor depending on what you want to shoot, and how far.
3.) Use a Larue lower if you'd like. I'm going to get flamed for this comment by the fan boys, but those who know the rifle will only laugh at them... The lower has little to do with the overall function of the rifle. PERIOD! It's a nugget of Aluminium that holds your upper in place, as well as your FCG. That's it's critical purpose in life. (I did misspell that, and I don't care)
4.) A 20" A2 clone with a good trigger will probally out shoot your abilities for a long time. Not knocking your ability, it's just a good setup.
5.) You said you want a "sniper" type. So I'm going out on a limb to say you probally want a flat top upper with some glass, a good trigger, and a long barrel. So here are my reccomendations. within MA rules.

http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=1633
24" crazy heavy barrel, by sabre defence, really nice, very expinsive, not threaded.

http://www.rainierarms.com/?page=shop/detail&product_id=395
Very nice trigger for the money

http://www.laruetactical.com/nightforce-nxs-35-15x50-f1-np-r1-hs-zs-25-moa-w-lt104-30
Awesome glass. for intermediate to long range.

I'm not busting your chops, I'm just trying to figure out what type of AR your going for. There is a crazy amount of knolowedge in the people on this board, but your questions are a little vuage. If you really want, make a range date, and you can shoot that rifle I posted earlier to see if it fits your idea.
 
widnerkj said:
Alright, we are getting a little distracted here. Back to the OP.
1.) Flash hiders are over rated. period.
2.) Weight of the bullet is critical for those wanting to push range to limits. So twist rate is a serious factor depending on what you want to shoot, and how far.
3.) Use a Larue lower if you'd like. I'm going to get flamed for this comment by the fan boys, but those who know the rifle will only laugh at them... The lower has little to do with the overall function of the rifle. PERIOD! It's a nugget of Aluminium that holds your upper in place, as well as your FCG. That's it's critical purpose in life. (I did misspell that, and I don't care)
....
Click to expand...

I'm going to digress here. If you're spending the money make sure whatever lower you get is within mil-spec and quality. While it's primary job is to hold the upper and fcg in place, if the mag well is out of spec you're going to have problems. Especially if you go prone and put some weight down on the mag. Since the magazine is such a integral part of this type of weapon system I'd say it's of utmost importance. The release can stick, parts won't fit well, etc.

You're just going to have a bad time, pay twice, not have fun at the range, or worse the rifle will fail when you really need it.
 
I think for the most part if your looking to have a sniper model of sorts pre ban should not really be a consideration. I see no real need for a collapsable stock bayonet lug or even a flash hider on such a gun. Maybe a good muzzle break but im sure thats debatable also ?
Maybe consider a Wylde chambered barrel.
Now im not promoting RRA arms but I did like this article http://www.snipercentral.com/rra.htm In the end you maybe better off buying something like this off the shelf rather than build. If you get hooked you have the lower to attach any thing you want to and could recoup a good amount of your money if you decide its not for you.
I was thinking of building a Service rifle national match model. After checking out the prices,shipping, ect ect I really could not build one myself cheaper than the big manufactures offer. RRA National match service rifle(which I shot my new one last week and scored a 411 on 100yard reduced targets, good for me and so much better than my 16" carbine) bushmaster and armalite make a National match service rifle modle also. There are others also like white oak that make great uppers also, I dont think I could buy all that is needed to build a upper much cheaper than WOA either.

I also think as mentioned it will be a good amount of time before I can shoot better than any of the guns I mentioned.

I built a clone of the S&W M&P tactical I purchased all the parts at great prices at the time S&W was selling them for 1250.00 I built mine for just under 900.00 then relized I couldnt shoot this in a service rifle match. Which is what I want to do next. Now finally after 4 years of buying and building Im back to basic A2 rifle configuration and waiting to get out to a service rilfe match.
 
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Super, Ok, I was a little over the top on optics on my earlier post. But that was just an example of an optic for getting into the long range game. You won't be shooting 600 yards long with a < $200 BSA scope for very long. However there are few fixed costs when it comes to the rifle. And good glass is going to hurt once. Eventually I'll get a tax return that the wife will let me use, and a scope on par with that nightforce will be living on my rifle. Barrel, eventually you'll shoot it out and have to replace.

Sasquatch, You are right about the magwell being in spec to having a functional rifle. The OP mentioned he was thinking about useing a Larue lower. And Larue puts out some very well made parts. As well as stands behind them. I'm not trolling, or trying to pick a fight. I'm just pointing out things to think about. The article Mac pointed out is a great option. And you don't have to put anything together. If you don't have the tools, or someone near you to lend them to you, that's a really great option. As you'd order the rifle, and feed it.
 
I'm a fan of good glass, but the cost/benefit ratio is just to high when you are shooting off a bench on a nice sunny day. The benefit of having high clarity, high contrast is apparent when trying to identify a target in low light conditions. For a black target on a white background, its hard to justify the extra cost over a scope at 1/2 the price.
Money would be better of spent on ammo and training, especially for a new shooter
 
widnerkj said:
Sasquatch, You are right about the magwell being in spec to having a functional rifle. The OP mentioned he was thinking about useing a Larue lower. And Larue puts out some very well made parts. As well as stands behind them. I'm not trolling, or trying to pick a fight. I'm just pointing out things to think about. The article Mac pointed out is a great option. And you don't have to put anything together. If you don't have the tools, or someone near you to lend them to you, that's a really great option. As you'd order the rifle, and feed it.
Click to expand...

Oh, the thought never really crossed my mind. I just wanted to add a bit to the discussion. I'd agree that for most people buying a completed lower is probably the way to go. They could screw up some stuff easy putting in a few of those pins.
 

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