Building my first AR

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Hey everyone,

I'm one of the remaining victims of the Winter Ares 80 group buy! I'm tired of having a stock and lower parts kit sitting on the floor in my office, so I'm going to build my first AR. I've been watching lots of how to videos on youtube on building an AR and I think I understand how this goes. (famous last words [wink])

I took the first step yesterday and found the bushmaster stripped lowers for $50 at Brownell's and am having one shipped to Precision Point. Now, what to do about an upper?

I live in a small apartment and don't have a workroom with a vise or any real tools besides what I've needed for gun smithing so far, like a set of punches and nylon/brass hammer. I'm pretty sure I can build the lower without any tools, but I would expect I definitely need the vise for the barrel. Or maybe I'm wrong and definitely need tools for the lower too. :)

Should I just buy a completed upper? Would anyone with the correct tools and know how help me build the rifle? I'd be very grateful and bring pizza, beer, or something (maybe cigars?).

Thanks!

So far this is what I've purchased: RRA A2 stock kit, RRA lower parts kit, Bushmaster stripped forged lower
 
I'm in the process of my first build as well. I have to say a vice and mag block really help make the build fun. I just watched the videos in the member forum under AR build and went to work. I'm still dicking around with getting a gas block that works with Magpul furniture because I don't want to use an A2 sight. Other than that it went pretty good. I built it all from parts first time. Except the BCG, I bought a complete.


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I'm also a little unsure what to do about muzzle brake... I don't want to get a plain crowned barrel, I want to get some kind of brake on it. I have a YHM phantom on my tavor and like it, but clearly I can't weld it at home. :)
 
I didn't want to bother with a SBR on my first build. I bought a threaded Green Mountain 14.5" and had a BCE battle comp welded on to make it legal. I didn't weld it myself even though I bought a tig welder and have been getting pretty good. That was a job I didn't want to take on!


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You can assemble a AR with out much effort. Barrel only needs to be tightened to 30 ftlbs then tighten to gas tube hole aligns. Some after marget free float tubes might have a different spec. You can literally assemble a AR sitting on the foor in your underware with out anything more than a few punches hammer and vise grips .( torgue wrench and barrel tool if installing your own barrel) its not the best approach though.
Here is what I used for my first build http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/22...__GAS_BLOCK___Step_by_step_instructions_.html

Now if you dont have a work space buy a small vise from harbor freight bolt it to a slab of 2x10 and C clamp it to your kitchen table. or something like this

http://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=...j&q=&ei=tOKeVOqOEcGzyAT5j4FQ&ved=0CMgBEKcrMAM

My only warning is support the receiver well when installing the trigger guard pin. The reciever ear will snap right off
 
You can assemble a AR with out much effort. Barrel only needs to be tightened to 30 ftlbs then tighten to gas tube hole aligns. Some after marget free float tubes might have a different spec. You can literally assemble a AR sitting on the foor in your underware with out anything more than a few punches hammer and vise grips .( torgue wrench and barrel tool if installing your own barrel) its not the best approach though.
Here is what I used for my first build http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/22...__GAS_BLOCK___Step_by_step_instructions_.html

Now if you dont have a work space buy a small vise from harbor freight bolt it to a slab of 2x10 and C clamp it to your kitchen table. or something like this

http://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=...j&q=&ei=tOKeVOqOEcGzyAT5j4FQ&ved=0CMgBEKcrMAM

My only warning is support the receiver well when installing the trigger guard pin. The reciever ear will snap right off

Thanks for the advice, I know I can do it on the floor in my underwear, but that's less than ideal. ;)

I don't even have a kitchen table in my condo, I do all of my gun cleaning and modifying on our coffee table and a clamp will tear it apart. One of my requirements for our next home will be a work room or a proper garage with a work bench. In the mean time, I'm stuck with what I have. I'm also a little worried about the gas port and doing that correctly.

Also, I have no idea how much I'll be building ARs in the future, I only really got these parts because I was in the group buy and there were going to be build parties.
 
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Thanks for the advice, I know I can do it on the floor in my underwear, but that's less than ideal. ;)

I don't even have a kitchen table in my condo, I do all of my gun cleaning and modifying on our coffee table and a clamp will tear it apart. One of my requirements for our next home will be a work room or a proper garage with a work bench. In the mean time, I'm stuck with what I have. I'm also a little worried about the gas port and doing that correctly.

Also, I have no idea how much I'll be building ARs in the future, I only really got these parts because I was in the group buy and there were going to be build parties.

You have anything that over hangs , counter top, bed frame rail ,bumper on your truck.... get creative.
Use pieces,of scrap plywood to protect surfaces? Just think and look around. My first punch set was,made from nails and cheap Allen wrenches I had on hand and a wooden meet tenderizing hammer.
Same as you 1st time , not sure if I would do any more building so I avoided spending any money when possible.

A small cheap vise bolted to the center of a 2'x2' piece of 3/4" plywood and tossed on the floor will give you enough support and stability to get it done. Don't need a fancy lower vice block you can use a piece of wood fitted to the mag well..... If you seen my pathetic small dark work space you would say....wtf how do you get anything done.
 
I've been thinking about it, and I'll probably just buy an upper. Thanks for your help mac1911!

Now, to decide if I want a traditional A2, or A4, or really anything. :)
 
I've been thinking about it, and I'll probably just buy an upper. Thanks for your help mac1911!

Now, to decide if I want a traditional A2, or A4, or really anything. :)
I been all over the various models/styles in the past 7 years.
I have come down to basic A2 rifle.
I sold 9 of my 12 ARs from carbine to full blown tacticool with red dots worth more than my truck.
It came down to just a simple rifle is what I like.
I have a A2 then my A2 national match for shooting matches and the a A4 so I can use a scope.
I bought a Wilson arms match barrel with target crown so I can modify it with ease. Right now it sits on a group buy upper RRA inexpensive Free Float and basic low profile gas block.
 
I think you'll need / want some sort of vice not just for the build but cleaning and modifying (we all do it) the AR.
Look at getting a collapsible table you can put a vice on. When you do the barrel work you can grab a friend to help stabilize the table. I have only built and modified one AR and if you only have one tool; a vice is the one you want.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/BLACK-DE...table-Project-Center-and-Vice-WM225/202516379
 
I think you'll need / want some sort of vice not just for the build but cleaning and modifying (we all do it) the AR.
Look at getting a collapsible table you can put a vice on. When you do the barrel work you can grab a friend to help stabilize the table. I have only built and modified one AR and if you only have one tool; a vice is the one you want.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/BLACK-DE...table-Project-Center-and-Vice-WM225/202516379

just have to make things happen, I did my 1st M1 garand barrel change for a guy on his truck something like this but his was home made.
 
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I just built one. I bought a complete upper as I didn't want to buy the barrel tools at this point. I used a little Panavise to assist with the lower. It could be done without it easily but I already owned it. The lower, if you have any mechanical skills at all will take 10-15 minutes at the most to assemble. I would recommend a brass punch set to keep from damaging the lower in case you slip driving in pins. I pushed my pins in with parallel jaw pliers with plastic jaws.
My next build will probably include me building the upper as well. It looks really easy but does require some special tools to simplify some of the assembly.
 
Okay, ordered this one: http://www.joeboboutfitters.com/Spike_s_Tactical_16_M4_LE_Upper_5_56_with_MOE_h_p/sp-stu5025-moe.htm

looks like a really good price, this will get me started. I was leaning towards the 20" or 18" NM rifles, but I just sold a Sig 556 that I didn't shoot as much as I wanted because it was really front heavy.

Anyone have any experiences with the spike's tactical 16" M4 LE uppers? I'll also need to find someone to grind off the bayonet lug and pin/weld a brake, any suggestions there too?

Thanks!
 
I just built one. I bought a complete upper as I didn't want to buy the barrel tools at this point. I used a little Panavise to assist with the lower. It could be done without it easily but I already owned it. The lower, if you have any mechanical skills at all will take 10-15 minutes at the most to assemble. I would recommend a brass punch set to keep from damaging the lower in case you slip driving in pins. I pushed my pins in with parallel jaw pliers with plastic jaws.
My next build will probably include me building the upper as well. It looks really easy but does require some special tools to simplify some of the assembly.

Get one of the AR wrenches Fourrunner sells (ongoing group buy). I have one of his AR10/AR15 combo wrenches and it kicks ass. That's pretty much the only special tool you need to put an AR together. It's a good idea to get a vice block set though (to hold the upper mostly). You don't NEED a torque wrench. I've found that using my 18" breaker bar makes installing the barrel nut MUCH easier. It's also easier to go with a free float handguard. IME, installing the gas tube pin into a low profile gas block gives me the most trouble. The rest is pretty damned easy if you have more than half a brain.
 
Get one of the AR wrenches Fourrunner sells (ongoing group buy). I have one of his AR10/AR15 combo wrenches and it kicks ass. That's pretty much the only special tool you need to put an AR together. It's a good idea to get a vice block set though (to hold the upper mostly). You don't NEED a torque wrench. I've found that using my 18" breaker bar makes installing the barrel nut MUCH easier. It's also easier to go with a free float handguard. IME, installing the gas tube pin into a low profile gas block gives me the most trouble. The rest is pretty damned easy if you have more than half a brain.

Forrunner wrench 100% agree. A torgue wrench is not needed but I like to install my barrels to spec 30 ftlbs is not hard to apply. Turning to align the gas tube has yet taken over 40 ftlb on my rifles.
 
Thanks for the advice, I know I can do it on the floor in my underwear, but that's less than ideal. ;)

I don't even have a kitchen table in my condo, I do all of my gun cleaning and modifying on our coffee table and a clamp will tear it apart. ....
028873792259lg.jpg


http://www.lowes.com/pd_552088-70-W...URL=?Ntt=black+and+decker+workmate&facetInfo=
Folds up for storage.
Best 58 bucks you will ever spend.

Jack
 

These fold up work tables look pretty promising!

I use that table for my reloading press. IME, it doesn't do well when you're torquing on it. I ended up securing a larger piece of plywood (about 3/4" thick) to the workbench in order to get more stability. It's ok for using as a work surface, but it's not an actual workbench.

If you plan to set it up for putting rifles together, I'd figure out a way to secure a bench vice to it. I ended up using a 1/2" thick piece of steel I had hanging around for mine. Simply drilled and tapped three holes into the plate, then used some strong bolts to connect the two together. I then use a pair of good size C clamps to hold the plate to my workbench. The plate spreads the load over a larger area of the bench, which is a good thing. Plus it's not a perm mount, so I can put it wherever I really need it.
 
Anyone have any recommendations for a shop to do the AWB compliance for the upper? I looked at 1776 and they aren't taking new jobs after the new year, also kind of hard for me to justify paying $100 for someone to saw off the bayonet lug ears and pin/weld the muzzle device. It's like a 10 min job.
 
Anyone have any recommendations for a shop to do the AWB compliance for the upper? I looked at 1776 and they aren't taking new jobs after the new year, also kind of hard for me to justify paying $100 for someone to saw off the bayonet lug ears and pin/weld the muzzle device. It's like a 10 min job.
Then bang it out yourself spend the 100$ on a dremel few drill bits and some cold blue.
If you find a local Smith to get it done in less than a few weeks, your doing well!
If you must go to heighbor freight in Braintree but the cheapest 120v mig welder they have run home give the muzzle/pin a quick weld and return the welder ?
 
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Already ordered cold blue, the bayonet lug is the easy bit. I don't have welding stuff, that's the problem with the brake.

You have to know someone who has access to welding... or someone who would help.
Where are you located?
 
Brookline. I'm going out of the country for a week or so for work next week, I found a gunsmith that'll do the brake for $40, unless someone has the tools anywhere in the boston metro area and can teach me how to do it. Of course, I'll supply beer, pizza, whatever.
 
Brookline. I'm going out of the country for a week or so for work next week, I found a gunsmith that'll do the brake for $40, unless someone has the tools anywhere in the boston metro area and can teach me how to do it. Of course, I'll supply beer, pizza, whatever.

Well a business will charge what they need to charge. 40$ is about the average. Drop it off and it will be done when you come home....
 
Well a business will charge what they need to charge. 40$ is about the average. Drop it off and it will be done when you come home....

Yeah, but I'm in the build it yourself forum! I'm trying to learn how to do things. [smile] I may settle for doing the bayo lug myself and having the brake pinned/welded by a smith this time. It's satisfactory to just cut off the ears, right? I don't need to take off the entire thing, I think.
 
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