AHM
NES Member
Hips are supposed to be for the big loads
I bet the frame pack would be more comfortable. For reasons I'll state below, if I had to carry a load for a long distance that would fit in either my 1700 in³ Mountainsmith Bugaboo backpack or my 6100 in³ Mountainsmith Crestone III internal frame pack, I'd pick the bigger pack even though it weighs 7lbs. 4oz. to the Bugaboo's 3lbs. 6oz. That's because the hip belt carries the load so well.
More than once I have put a spackle bucket mostly filled with rock samples (topped off with tools, etc). into the Crestone III. Once I get the sucker on my back and the hip belt snugged, I can adjust shoulder and chest straps at leisure, and then it's no problem carrying the load from the mineral locality to the car. Never more than a mile or two, but it's a breeze. Just try carrying a cubic foot of rock without a good hip belt. (You should see the guys carrying their spackle bucket full of rocks by hand - they're switching sides every 10 feet all the way down the hill).
While pack shopping a long time ago, I read an online article that said that the human pelvis is made to carry weight (the upper half of the body), but that shoulders are not made to carry weight; that hips can be used to transmit forces to the pelvis, but shoulders cannot transmit significant forces to any place strong enough to support it.
Old time trappers with woven pack baskets that fit over the shoulders must have been in agony with any kind of load to their shoulders. At best they're lucky they didn't know any better. I've wondered whether this technology has made it to paratroop gear, since they carry the most insane loads.
I've never done those kinds of distances, let alone with a full household load. But I wonder about your pack.
A good hip belt is padded, and is concave so that it cups your hips.
The first step of donning and adjusting a Mountainsmith pack is to bend over horizontal at the waist, get it on your back and your arms through the shoulder straps, with everything loose. Buckle and cinch the belt, straighten up and make sure that only the belt is carrying the load. Only then do you start tightening the shoulder straps, mainly to keep the pack from shifting around on your body. The final adjustments are to the chest strap.
Here we go, time doesn't seem to have dimmed that approach:
REI: Backpacks: Adjusting the Fit
(And yes, my big pack has load-lifters, and they're the penultimate step).
Maybe there's different body types, and your pack is better suited for you. You've got the experience; I'm just relating what I've read. Or maybe you're not using your pack's design as intended? There's a Tyvek adjustment checklist sewn inside my packs; the big pack has 8 discrete steps...
... Lately I've added a few sandbags to a backpack a couple times a week so I can get tired more quickly. ... I cinch down the chest and waist straps, but they're not really carrying any weight. ...
After an hour 20# is heavy in a traditional backpack. I haven't broken out the frame pack mostly because I don't want to be that guy who walks around the neighborhood with a big ass frame pack, but I'm certain that would make it much more comfortable.
I bet the frame pack would be more comfortable. For reasons I'll state below, if I had to carry a load for a long distance that would fit in either my 1700 in³ Mountainsmith Bugaboo backpack or my 6100 in³ Mountainsmith Crestone III internal frame pack, I'd pick the bigger pack even though it weighs 7lbs. 4oz. to the Bugaboo's 3lbs. 6oz. That's because the hip belt carries the load so well.
More than once I have put a spackle bucket mostly filled with rock samples (topped off with tools, etc). into the Crestone III. Once I get the sucker on my back and the hip belt snugged, I can adjust shoulder and chest straps at leisure, and then it's no problem carrying the load from the mineral locality to the car. Never more than a mile or two, but it's a breeze. Just try carrying a cubic foot of rock without a good hip belt. (You should see the guys carrying their spackle bucket full of rocks by hand - they're switching sides every 10 feet all the way down the hill).
What I'm getting at here is if you plan on walking any kind of distance with an appreciable weight, look for something with a frame and a waist belt intended to carry the weight. I really want to try the $45 pack from Walmart but I believe it will suck and I'll end up spending twice that or more on a proper bag.
While pack shopping a long time ago, I read an online article that said that the human pelvis is made to carry weight (the upper half of the body), but that shoulders are not made to carry weight; that hips can be used to transmit forces to the pelvis, but shoulders cannot transmit significant forces to any place strong enough to support it.
Old time trappers with woven pack baskets that fit over the shoulders must have been in agony with any kind of load to their shoulders. At best they're lucky they didn't know any better. I've wondered whether this technology has made it to paratroop gear, since they carry the most insane loads.
I found that when hiking with a pack >40 lbs, it's actually easier on my legs by not using the waist strap and having ride entirely on my shoulders, not sure if it's a blood flow problem or what. My most recent hike was 4 long days through the PNW rain forest, I did a lot better without the waist belt hooked up, carrying about 45-50 pounds soaking wet pack.
I've never done those kinds of distances, let alone with a full household load. But I wonder about your pack.
A good hip belt is padded, and is concave so that it cups your hips.
The first step of donning and adjusting a Mountainsmith pack is to bend over horizontal at the waist, get it on your back and your arms through the shoulder straps, with everything loose. Buckle and cinch the belt, straighten up and make sure that only the belt is carrying the load. Only then do you start tightening the shoulder straps, mainly to keep the pack from shifting around on your body. The final adjustments are to the chest strap.
Here we go, time doesn't seem to have dimmed that approach:
REI: Backpacks: Adjusting the Fit
(And yes, my big pack has load-lifters, and they're the penultimate step).
Maybe there's different body types, and your pack is better suited for you. You've got the experience; I'm just relating what I've read. Or maybe you're not using your pack's design as intended? There's a Tyvek adjustment checklist sewn inside my packs; the big pack has 8 discrete steps...
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