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buffer and spring questions for a carbine AR

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i have a carbine length AR15 with a rifle length tube,buffer and spring and i can feel the kick when i go shooting. i would like to not have to buy a new stock. so my question is, can i put a carbine buffer in the rifle length spring/tube and still have a good functioning rifle? thoughts/opinions/solutions?

Thanks
 
First off, I'm not an AR15 expert, nor do I play one on TV, so this is just what I've read...

There's two issues here, the receiver tube and the gas system length. Gas systems generally come in carbine, mid-length, and rifle length, is order from shortest to longest. The carbine barrel has a gas port closest to the chamber, and therefore has the highest gas pressure returned through the gas tube into the action. I believe this is why they kick a bit more. The rifle length system has a lower gas pressure at the gas port, and therefore a bit smoother action.

I believe that you put the appropriate buffer in the matching buffer tube. FWIW, I have carbines with both rifle and carbine buffer tubes, and I don't see a whole lot of difference. If anyone knows more about this point, please chime in.

Also FWIW, Tubbs advertises a stronger buffer spring that supposedly slows down the action a bit; feel free to try that.
 
Easy fix. Go put a few hundred rounds through a Mosin-Nagant. Go back and shoot your AR after and report back with how much kick your AR has. Problem fixed. You're welcome. If you don't have a Mosin, just use a 12ga with a case of 3" magnum slugs.
 
It's probably over gassed. Rifle length buffers usually fee smoother and softer than carbine.

I agree with this, and am surprised that the OP is complaining about the recoil with a rifle length buffer. It is my understanding that the rifle length buffer will give you as smooth as it can get on a carbine gas system. If that is too much recoil, then you should sell the carbine upper, and just buy a middy, or rifle length gas system, which helps a lot with the felt recoil.
 
rebelfootballpl said:
i might just have to puck up a carbine stock, tube and spring. i think if i put a carbine buffer in the rifle tube/spring i will have feeding issues due to lack of buffer weight.

The carbine buffers are even lighter than the rifle buffer. You're likely to have even worse bolt bounce if you go that route.
 
The carbine buffers are even lighter than the rifle buffer. You're likely to have even worse bolt bounce if you go that route.

This and they're also a different size, so it won't work.

How old/worn is your recoil spring? It might just be shot out and need replacing.

How bad is this kick? Have you fired other AR's?
 
This and they're also a different size, so it won't work.

True. I was responding to:
i might just have to puck up a carbine stock, tube and spring.

To the OP: I think your best bet is to either get a heavy RIFLE buffer (honestly I didn't even know they existed until Brian linked to them above, but he knows his stuff) or add some mass to the carrier itself by using a carrier weight. I've used the carrier weights with good results, but now that I know about the heavy rifle buffers I'm tempted to try one of those.
 
Or get an adjustable gas block

It's not clear to me from the OP's description that it's over-gassed (though I agree that a lot of cheap carbines are so it is a distinct possibility.) It could just be that he's not used to the recoil of an AR.
 
True. I was responding to:


To the OP: I think your best bet is to either get a heavy RIFLE buffer (honestly I didn't even know they existed until Brian linked to them above, but he knows his stuff) or add some mass to the carrier itself by using a carrier weight. I've used the carrier weights with good results, but now that I know about the heavy rifle buffers I'm tempted to try one of those.


if you order one, order 2. i'll give ya the $$ for it wednesday
 
Just be aware that you may need to adjust your load if you get one for HP. I had to put another .4 grains of powder in my 6mm RAT 200 yard rapid fire ammo to make it function. The recoil impulse is very different than a regular buffer.

If you have an H3 buffer you can take it apart and get the tungsten weights and replace three of the steel ones in the rifle length buffer. If you were a real clever bastard you could find an industrial supply place that could supply you with tungsten slugs in bulk that are the same dimension and then just replace them. I looked into this at one point but got sidetracked spending my money somewhere else.

B

bufferconstruction.jpg
 
Well, I've got 2 spare rifle buffers...perhaps I'll pull one apart and see what I can do with it.

I do have an abundance of lead, and the gear in which to melt/mold it...I wonder if lead slugs would work.
 
There has to be a reason that they didn't use lead in the original buffers but I suspect that you could use it with good results. keep me informed of what you do.

I love my heavybuffer.com buffer despite it being a small fortune.

B
 
Kind of a dumb question maybe but is it gas operated or piston driven. I have both and it seems my pistons driven has a fair bit more recoil. I have figured that the gas operated just has some bleed off as the gas fills the void and some of the gas escapes, compared to the piston which directs more energy, minus any friction, to drive the bolt back.
 
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