BUCK KNIVES THREAD!

I picked this up locally for $29.95 + tax. Buck 112 slim (2.6 oz). Should be a good cheap EDC to abuse at work. Didn't know how to resize the pic, LOL.
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I picked up 4 or 5 of those in different colors for Christmas gifts this year. They seem like really cool knives and very sharp as usual (don't ask me me how I know ;)). I might even keep one for myself. They make a bright orange one and that's the the one I think I'll keep. I'm less likely to lose it on the cluttered work bench :cool:
 
Here's a question for the brain trust here...

I've passed on a couple of otherwise very nice vintage Buck folders on ebay because the brass bolsters looked like some idiot used them to drive in finish nails :confused:. I don't mind a dent here or there as it adds character to the vintageness (if that's a word) of the knife but some people really should learn there is a correct tool for every job.

Anyway, does anyone know if there is a way short of using a polish wheel with different grades of grit (which I don't have) to buff these dents out. I could pick up some knives for pretty short money if it's possible to minimize the look of the idiot dents.

I know that Buck has a polish/sharpen/adjust service for minimal money, $7 I think. I just learned about that a couple of weeks ago and sent in a knife for that service but haven't got it back yet to see how well they do.

Example pic and this isn't the worst I've seen:

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for a short money, high quality edc user i don't know if i'd bother. and there's not too many people more anal than me on how my stuff looks. how deep are the dents?
 
for a short money, high quality edc user i don't know if i'd bother. and there's not too many people more anal than me on how my stuff looks. how deep are the dents?
yeah....you're probably right. I just don't want someone to see the knife and think, "what an idiot for using this great knife as a hammer" :confused:. It's hard to tell how deep they are by the picture. Buffing it with a dremel which I do have might at least soften the crater edges.
 
"what an idiot for using this great knife as a hammer" :confused:
i tried to use the side of one of my delicas to put in a small nail in the wall to hang a picture. you can see the result in that show your spyderco threads. it's the one wearing the ebay scales. even the great among us screw up. [laugh]
 
i tried to use the side of one of my delicas to put in a small nail in the wall to hang a picture. you can see the result in that show your spyderco threads. it's the one wearing the ebay scales. even the great among us screw up. [laugh]
yeah, I must admit to using a socket driver more than once to "tap" something in when working on cars/motorcycles/boats...I even broke a Buck 119 once trying to break apart a frozen chunk of hamburg by tapping on the back of the knife with a ball peen hammer. I couldn't find my cleaver. Buck replaced it free, even after I told them it was my fault. Idiots abide everywhere, I guess [rockon]
 
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Yeah, never repaired a brass bolster, but I think your "soften the edges" is the way to go...
 
Here's a question for the brain trust here...

I've passed on a couple of otherwise very nice vintage Buck folders on ebay because the brass bolsters looked like some idiot used them to drive in finish nails :confused:. I don't mind a dent here or there as it adds character to the vintageness (if that's a word) of the knife but some people really should learn there is a correct tool for every job.

Anyway, does anyone know if there is a way short of using a polish wheel with different grades of grit (which I don't have) to buff these dents out. I could pick up some knives for pretty short money if it's possible to minimize the look of the idiot dents.

I know that Buck has a polish/sharpen/adjust service for minimal money, $7 I think. I just learned about that a couple of weeks ago and sent in a knife for that service but haven't got it back yet to see how well they do.

Example pic and this isn't the worst I've seen:

View attachment 417923
In order to pull those dents out would take some doing. Sanding and stepping grits would work but would either require refinishing the scales or would leave a step. Starting with 180 then moving up to 800-1000 grit and buffing.
 
Develop a process and the World will beat a path to your door...
 
I just bought me another Buck!!! Does it ever end? Copper and Clad...ever since I laid eyes on these I’ve wanted one. Wifey says go for it...

 
I've seen those Indigo's on the 110 and they look great. Silver Bols set them off too. A real eye catcher... Nice!

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The blue (indigo?) looks much nicer in your picture than it does on the C&C site. Can’t wait to get it.
Yeah if you do a Google Search for Buck 110 Indigo you will see a ton of variation in shades and grain patterns because I believe it is a stain on Dymondwood laminate in most cases beech and birch. Great look no matter what the host wood is for the indigo dye...
 
So, after going to BUCK's website and "building" a custom 110, you have a choice of about a dozen scales and finishes. There is one called "Blue" wood, but it doesn't say what type of would they use. I really like the darker shade, but unless you are standing in front of a display counter with many examples in front of you... it's Dealers Choice.

Also, from what I can tell these are a C&C "Exclusive" run from BUCK.
As far as the 110, most of the 7 reviews come from 2016, 2 from 2017 and 1 from early 2018.
Stock also says "23" left. So, it may be setting itself up to be a "Collectable" specimen for the future... Likewise for the 112 Ranger.
~Enbloc.

PS: The example in the photo I posted appears to be a laminate...
 
I also found this on an Aussie Knife Forum...

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The stain color variation from side to side is visible, but beautiful.

Some interesting data on it and other BUCKs Down Under: What is wrong with buck knives

I know these are 110's and not the 112, but the scales should give you an idea of the variations.

~Enbloc
 
Here’s a weird one...can anyone tell when this 110 was made. I’ve never seen one a bar on each side of the model number...

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Nope. I've seen 4-Dots that look like 2 bars... but that's my bad eyes... [rofl2]

I'll research...

Found it:
Mid-year 1992 design change.

110 Date Code Q: - 110 - (two dashes) ?

Increases Rarity?
Sure!


I've been looking for years for one of those (and a matching Single-Dash) and haven't found anything.

If you don't want it, PM me the name of the dealer and I'll give him a call.
~Bladeforums.com post
 
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Nope. I've seen 4-Dots that look like 2 bars... but that's my bad eyes... [rofl2]

I'll research...

Found it:
Mid-year 1992 design change.

110 Date Code Q: - 110 - (two dashes) ?

Increases Rarity?
Sure!



~Bladeforums.com post

Yup...on Bladeforums.com I got this info from several different folks...somewhat conflicting but at least it confirms the year it was made and it's pedigree...by the way, it's mine now (on the way) [grin] .

"The "two bar" date code appeared briefly in 1992. Offhand I can't remember what production change it signified."

"...what joe told me is the minus sign on both sides means the knife was produced in in the later half of the year 1992...."

" As discussed in previous threads, the single dash was used for about a month in 1992, and the double dash the remainder of the year. What's known is that Buck switched from 425mod to 420HC steel that year. But also, it's been noted that a design change took place to the rocker and spring holder in 1992 as well.

" A dash was the 1992 date code. Because of an engineering change of the rocker/spring or something like that, it was necessary to identify knives made post change. A second dash was added to identify those knives because some parts were different. The change from single dash to double dash happened early in the year. Therefore, for 1992, 2 dashes is the most common and single dashes are rarer. They make a lot fewer FG 110's. Finding a 1992 single dash 110 FG has been unobtanium for me, I've been watching for years. "
 
I finally found the elusive "5 pin" buck and bought it on the spot. These things are as scarce as hens teeth...in the six years since I found out about this knife, I've only seen pictures of them, never one for sale. This was only done to a relatively small number of knives in 1976. According to Buck, "The following applies to both 110 and 112 models. We used to use two handle inlay rivets in addition to the rocker rivet. When we went to using three handle rivets in 1976 (two at back and one at the front of the inlay), we already had a supply of inlays drilled for the two holes and we did not want to waste the material. Because the two rivet models were more or less centered vertically, we just went ahead and drilled two more rivet holes at the one end, one above and one below the original rivet hole. The result is a triangular look at that end due to the fact that the holes are not vertically aligned".

It even comes with original case and box. This one will not be an EDC. :)

5 pin buck.jpg
 
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Look at the edge of that ebony! Never abused. Gently & lovingly handled! Nice...

Hard to tell from the photo, but is she still sporting a factory edge?
 
Look at the edge of that ebony! Never abused. Gently & lovingly handled! Nice...

Hard to tell from the photo, but is she still sporting a factory edge?
Hard to tell...usually if a knife was carried, they don't have the original box that it came in. The sheath looks mint as does the knife itself. I know people that have been looking for this knife for years. The guy that put it up on ebay emailed me after I bought and said that was a record for him. From the time he posted until it was bought was just a tad over 3 minutes. Right place..right time, I guess.
 
Wow. He put it up as "Buy It Now"? Not auctioned? That is kismet...
 
Wow. He put it up as "Buy It Now"? Not auctioned? That is kismet...
Yeah, tell me about it. I got up late and almost didn't check my eBay "watched" list that's emailed to me every morning around 6am. I seriously needed a cup of coffee though so decided, before I bolted out the door, to make one and sit for a couple of minutes at my computer and check NES and my emails (I always do it in that order...LOL). There it was...I almost choked on my coffee, especially when I saw it was a BIN and a fair price...with the damned original box no less! In less the 10 seconds after I saw it, it was sold. Only after I hit the BIN button did I remember to check the seller's credentials...it was all good. Whew!

Here's a picture of the box and sheath...it even comes with the original paperwork:

Bummer...I just noticed the snap on the sheath is sideways by 90°...fugetit...I'm returning it...LOL...I'm kidding, I'm kidding! :cool:

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