Broken Bolt Help.

mibro

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If he's not replacing the bearing then it doesn't need to be separated from the axle. No, it's not the normal order but will work. As far as the inner axle seal goes, the axle is being pulled so the knuckle can be removed to do the ball joints, therefore, risk to the seal remains the same.
Yup, my apologies, I realized you know what you're talking about on this vehicle so edited my post above. I've only worked on the vehicles I've owned and the same methods don't always cross from one vehicle to another.
 

Lowbird

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If you're salvaging everything possible. Get the hub off anyway you can. Drill out the broken 1 (or however many you break off) tap, get new hardware. Grab beer.

Or pipe wrench, channel locks, vice grips.
 

TrashcanDan

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Pull the knuckle.
Shoot it with penetrating oil and let it sit overnight.
Drill it out from behind, in increments going up. Start at about 1/8". End at whatever the bolt size is. Looks like a 10 mm body, so don't go any farther than 5/16"- 3/8"
It'll get to the point where you can either roll it out with a small punch, or you can peel the bolt threads out.
Chase all the holes with a tap.
 
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Soak and heat. Cherry red it and a pair of vice grips.

Looking at it again. Hmm. Bang it out from the back is a strong maybe. But cherry red the others with a torch and get pb blaster all in them.

I have also had some luck using a cold steel chisel to dig in and spin free stuck fasteners. The $40 upgrade from that is to buy a cheap air hammer from harbor freight and an air can. Expect one fill per bolt. (bolts will be trashed. )

Of course now that I have a flux core mig setup, I would just zip on a big nut.
 

Dennis in MA

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Late to the party, but watched a Utoob on various methods of loosening bolts. Heat worked best, surprisingly. A close second was Liquid Wrench. The rest were distant 3rd. I was surprised. LW penetrated well and freed things up. I wanna say the rusted bolts were tested at about 140 ft/lb's with nothing, in the 70's with the torch and 80's with LW. Just about everything else was over 100. One or two didn't even help at all. Yikes!
 

Sweeney

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Pull the knuckle.
Shoot it with penetrating oil and let it sit overnight.
Drill it out from behind, in increments going up. Start at about 1/8". End at whatever the bolt size is. Looks like a 10 mm body, so don't go any farther than 5/16"- 3/8"
It'll get to the point where you can either roll it out with a small punch, or you can peel the bolt threads out.
Chase all the holes with a tap.
I don't think the knuckle will drop far enough to clear the ball joint pins with the axle shaft in place.
 

Sweeney

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Soak and heat. Cherry red it and a pair of vice grips.

Looking at it again. Hmm. Bang it out from the back is a strong maybe. But cherry red the others with a torch and get pb blaster all in them.

I have also had some luck using a cold steel chisel to dig in and spin free stuck fasteners. The $40 upgrade from that is to buy a cheap air hammer from harbor freight and an air can. Expect one fill per bolt. (bolts will be trashed. )

Of course now that I have a flux core mig setup, I would just zip on a big nut.
I wouldn't put a torch to it if he plans to reuse the bearing.
 

42!

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Good catch. That hub assembly is not going anywhere with the axle nut still on.

OP, I hope you have taken away from the comments above that you do NOT need to remove the broken bolt. It will come out with the hub. If you want to reuse the hub assembly you can remove the broken bolt later when the hub is out.
I've seen a noob leave the axle nut on. Depending on the vehicle, with a slide hammer attached to the hub, you will either pull the whole axle (tearing up the boots), or shatter the CV
If he's not replacing the bearing then it doesn't need to be separated from the axle. No, it's not the normal order but will work. As far as the inner axle seal goes, the axle is being pulled so the knuckle can be removed to do the ball joints, therefore, risk to the seal remains the same.
But you don't need to pull the axle to do the balljoint. Heck, you don't need to pull the wheel bearing either. Just take off the axle nut and slide out the splines. But with it having a broken bolt it's easier to pull the wheel bearing to fix that.
I don't think the knuckle will drop far enough to clear the ball joint pins with the axle shaft in place.
It does need to. The BJ stud goes up into the knuckle, push the control arm down. Pulling the axle nut and letting the splines slide out give you a little more play to work with, especially if you're on the ground. If it was on a lift I wouldn't bother.
 

Sweeney

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I've seen a noob leave the axle nut on. Depending on the vehicle, with a slide hammer attached to the hub, you will either pull the whole axle (tearing up the boots), or shatter the CV

But you don't need to pull the axle to do the balljoint. Heck, you don't need to pull the wheel bearing either. Just take off the axle nut and slide out the splines. But with it having a broken bolt it's easier to pull the wheel bearing to fix that.

It does need to. The BJ stud goes up into the knuckle, push the control arm down. Pulling the axle nut and letting the splines slide out give you a little more play to work with, especially if you're on the ground. If it was on a lift I wouldn't bother.
I've seen a noob leave the axle nut on. Depending on the vehicle, with a slide hammer attached to the hub, you will either pull the whole axle (tearing up the boots), or shatter the CV

But you don't need to pull the axle to do the balljoint. Heck, you don't need to pull the wheel bearing either. Just take off the axle nut and slide out the splines. But with it having a broken bolt it's easier to pull the wheel bearing to fix that.

It does need to. The BJ stud goes up into the knuckle, push the control arm down. Pulling the axle nut and letting the splines slide out give you a little more play to work with, especially if you're on the ground. If it was on a lift I wouldn't bother.
Except (I think) it's a solid front axle. No CV joint, it's got a u-joint. If a solid front axle it has 'C's on the ends and both ball joint studs face downwards...there is not upper or lower control arm at the knuckle...the whole knuckle has to drop down relative to the 'C' to free it from the ball joint studs.

My first guess is it's a Jeep solid axle.
 

LoginName

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Lot's of great advice, tips, and observations here, but did OP ever get that f***ing rusted old bolt off?
 

42!

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Except (I think) it's a solid front axle. No CV joint, it's got a u-joint. If a solid front axle it has 'C's on the ends and both ball joint studs face downwards...there is not upper or lower control arm at the knuckle...the whole knuckle has to drop down relative to the 'C' to free it from the ball joint studs.

My first guess is it's a Jeep solid axle.
You might have something there, hey OP, year and model?
 

centermass181

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Pipe wrench,PB Blaster and heat like a small butane torch.

Soak it overnight if you can,you can't soak it long enough.

butane wont heat that need acetylene heat it up cherry red all around the bolt. get the biggest set of vice grips you can find , and get it on there as absolutely tight as you possibly can. work the bolt back and forth until its loose.
if you dont have access to acetylene torch, dont bother, your gonna mangle the bolt and make it worse.
 
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