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Brand new brakes squeaking

Discussion in 'Off-Topic' started by ront02769, Jun 30, 2019.

  1. ront02769

    ront02769 NES Member

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    2012 highlander, 120,000k + miles, never a squeak in the brakes. New rear brakes a month back, now every morning when I back out of the garage squeaks squeaks squeaks. Goes away....but then out of the blue same thing. Garage guy said costs more for higher end parts so as longer wear and no squeaks. Thoughts?
     

  2. mjbitt

    mjbitt NES Member

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    Put some miles on them, And soon you will forget they ever squeaked at all
     
  3. Demoman

    Demoman NES Member

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    Semi metallic or metallic pads. There going to always make noise could go with organic or ceramic organic is generally the cheapest but less stopping power. Semi what I go with.
     
  4. Spanz

    Spanz NES Member

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    there is a sticky red shellac you spray on the back of the pads to keep them from squeaking. Did they use that?
     
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  5. Demoman

    Demoman NES Member

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    Bought a new f 550 been to the dealer twice for brake noise. Going again they say there is nothing wrong told them to shut the radio off and open the windows next time
     
  6. Demoman

    Demoman NES Member

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    As lot of the new pads are coated and dont need anti squeal applied
     
  7. 42!

    42! NES Life Member NES Member

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    It's been my experience that the lower end organic pad are less likely to squeak that the higher end, harder, metallic pads.

    Having said that, the biggest cause to brakes squeaking is poor work.
    If you don't replace the rotors, a poor resurfacing can cause squeaking (and clicking). If you don't clean and lube the slides the pads can drag and squeak. If the pads aren't secured to the caliper/piston they can drag and squeak (I like the spray on permatex anti squeak, it glues them on good).

    If the calipers are old enough and the square seal isn't pulling the piston back, that can cause a squeak.

    Basically anything that lets the pad rub against the rotor when the brakes are released will glase the rotors and cause squeaking.

    The cheaper, softer pads won't have the stopping power, and won't last as long, but they will be quieter. Provided they are installed correctly.
     
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  8. drgrant

    drgrant Moderator NES Member

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    If you put generics on that's probably 50% of the problem. Most of the aftermarket brakes for Toyota/Lexus are meh to junk. I always go full oem pads/rotors.

    -Mike
     
  9. Asaltweapon

    Asaltweapon NES Member

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    Factory parts only or put up with the cheap price satisfaction.
     
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  10. appraiser

    appraiser NES Member

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    I did OEM brakes on all 4 corners of my Highlander last fall, with rotors. My cost for parts was close to 500 and the brake in hat rear rotors did NOT want to come off.

    I didn't trust the AM parts that were out there

    The EU has a mandatory certification for AM brake parts now, they have to meet or exceed OEM specifications. Look for ECE R90 ,supposedly most of the EBC offerings have it

    Sometimes you see some of the AM offerings with the cert on the packaging... I am not buying into it quite yet.
     
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  11. ront02769

    ront02769 NES Member

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    Thanks all. Price was not cheap. Mechanic said extra cost for top of the line parts.
     
  12. appraiser

    appraiser NES Member

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    try putting on your emergency brake just a C hair, see if the noise changes.

    That is a drum in hat design, there is a drum brake setup for the E brake, they could be out of adjustment.
    If you put a little pressure on them and the noise goes away or changes, you can isolate out the disc brakes from the drum brakes for diagnostic purposes.
     
  13. kalash

    kalash

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    I get cheap pads and rotors and I haven't had any noise issues on any of my cars.
     
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  14. qqac

    qqac

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    It's squeak, squeak, squeak, not a continuous squeak? Aside from the squeaking, you have a slightly warped rotor.

    The noise may be because your brakes have not been broken in adequately. Rear brakes can be especially prone, since they do not get worked as much. Find an empty parking lot and try accelerating in reverse, then applying the brakes progressively, but very firmly. Don't skid your tires. Repeat several times.
     
  15. whatluck

    whatluck

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    some brakes are just noisy
     
  16. mibro

    mibro NES Member

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    This. I've done the same brake job on my Sequoia. Squeaking while backing up is probably the parking brake shoes imho. The parking brake shoes are pulled clear of the drum by forward rotation but if the clearance is too tight they're pulled against the drum by reverse rotation.

    I'd try backing off the star wheel adjuster to increase the rear parking brake shoe clearance.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2019
  17. Snora

    Snora

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    A mechanic did it? Go back and talk to him not us.
     
  18. 42!

    42! NES Life Member NES Member

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    Q: What kind of mechanic would use parts so cheap they prevent the work from being acceptable?
    A: Not a good one.

    But seriously, blaming the parts is BS. Plenty of perfectly acceptable brake jobs have been done with the inexpensive AutoZone parts. And if you were too cheap to buy the right parts he should have taken a pass on the work. A matter of professional pride.

    And this is the guy you're trusting your life with.
     
  19. JackOfAllTrades

    JackOfAllTrades

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    Unless they have changed their mind recently, the Toyota drum brakes don't work like that.

    Toyota picked the leading/trailing shoe design for the their drum brakes. They are rotation agnostic. The only thing that pulls the shoes away from the drums are the return springs.

    Toyota drums are adjusted only through the use of the parking brake. They do not adjust by backing up, backing up while applying the brakes, or any other sequence of operations other than pulling the parking brake.

    That said, there are a lot of moving parts in a drum brake and they don't move much which sets them up for sticking. If you don't clean everything, grease the right points, make sure the stamped slots are actually big enough for the the parts to slide in, etc. you can get all kinds of clicking, squeaking, dragging, inability to adjust, etc. Rip the shoes out, slap the new StopmasterXL shoes in, and stuff the drum on and you will be going back to do it right.
     
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  20. tuna

    tuna NES Member

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    I had that with my old Camry.

    WD40 didn’t work. Still squeaked, and smoked.
    Engine oil worked for a little while. Smoked more but lasted longer.
    (What? Most braking is done with the front. Bite me you safety nazis)

    Turning up the radio was best option. After a few months the noise went away.
     
  21. whatluck

    whatluck

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    Better make sure to use an ase certified mechanic next time. Mechanics should all have to get 2000 hours of training and pull permits.
     
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  22. appraiser

    appraiser NES Member

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    We have a customer that insists on supplying his own parts, he buys the cheapest online crap he can find.
    I do not like working with customer supplied parts due to liability and it eats into the profit, but I don't own the shop so I do what I am told.

    Recently he was whining that his brakes were shot after 12K miles.

    Not my fault.

    We have a lot of customers that are on tight budgets, I'd love to use the "best" parts on their cars, but we offer them the choice of parts and they pick what price point they are comfortable with.

    We are always competing against shops that are using "the inexpensive AutoZone parts"( Autozone does sell to shops) we call and get prices for mid priced good quality parts, and we never hear from the customer again, but on the next oil change when we rotate the tires we will see new brake parts in there and know we didn't get the job.

    I'd love to use the best parts, and make the markup on the more expensive parts ( the more it costs the more my profit on them is going to be ) but the reality is people are cheap, and they are getting what they pay for
     
  23. silversquirrel

    silversquirrel NES Member

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    Blew half my saturday doing front pads and rotors for the wifes tdi sportwagen. I dont mind, the money I save on labor pays for better parts.
    Believe it or not, still had some material left on the original pads at 130k miles. Also flushed and bled the brake fluid, so more savings. I dont think most shops even do a fluid flush unless you ask.
    Sadly, a rear caliper is sticking at the parking brake mech., so thats next weekend, maybe.
     
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  24. mac1911

    mac1911 NES Member

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    Toyota brakes suck, after market parts dont help.

    Question: Did you replace the parking shoes and hardware? THEY SUCK TO DO. so I will bet unless actual worn out your tech did not touch them....
    #1 NOW what happens with those POS design is when your trying to pull that rusted pos rotor off (dont tell me you dont have rust!) the rust ring inside the hat grabs the parking break shoe and pulls on it. EVEN with the parking shoe adjusted all the way "down/loose" the rust ring usually still grabs. This in turn bends the shoe hold down spring. Usually just enough to touch the back side of the axle flange. thats #1
    #2 if he did not replace calipers and brackets your bracket where the "hardware" sits is rotted to shit UNDER the sheet metal hardware. LAZY techs will grind the new brake pad ears to fit the rust swollen sliders on old brackets.
    #3 Some pads just suck for noise and its not always the "cost" or "quality"
    #4 For toyota trucks with 5yrs 70k plus I dont even try to use the old shit. you get a CPR( Calipers Pads Rotors) with P-brake shoes and hardware recommendation THEN PRAY you dont need backing plates another cluster f*** of a toyota design to repair !
    Being a toyota fan and owner of 2 Tundra since 2004 I have only used Toyota parts its costly but they hold up well especially if you take a little time to learn how to get in there and clean and lube the areas that rust/sieze up once in a while.

    Current tundra is crew max- did front calipers pads at 65k rears where pad slapped at that time , money issue. Now with 100k Im getting a little thump from the original rotors at 100k so rear CPR and pads and rotors up front soon.

    YES my rear backing plates have swollen from rust and hit my rotors. PITA

    Heres what your looking at in parts for the backing plate issue...so much fun
    https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2013/SB-10060842-2280.pdf
    Genuine OEM Toyota Tundra Right Rear Backing Plate Kit Axle Bearing Kit | eBay

    Its not as big of a problem with non tundras but its there...
     
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  25. mac1911

    mac1911 NES Member

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    I can assure ASE cert is like many other things pass a multiple choice test and your GTG. Does not make a good tech. I stopped renewing my ASE certs in 2005 as they mean very little here in mass. most places wont pay you more for them and they serve no other purpose if there is no licensing requirements. Looks good on the wall though.
     
  26. mac1911

    mac1911 NES Member

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    Correct most shops especially smaller ones are not going to touch a fluid flush unless requested. Also the correct machines make it a costly investment. Its also time consuming, get into the newer cars where you need Tech tool to open up each leg of the system to bleed...glad 99% of customers dont want fluid flushes.
     
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  27. mac1911

    mac1911 NES Member

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    I am not a fan of the cheap lines of brake pads....honestly used Centric brand for 30 yrs with not many issues. price point and quality where at what people want to pay.
    The biggest problem these days is most brake systems are "just good enough" for safety per regulation. Most systems are under size
    Oh wait THE BIGGEST problem is people drive like complete a**h***s just look around when your out.... 0-60mph 60-0mph every 1/2 mile people wonder why they need brakes under 20k I assure you those folks drive hard.
    Just sit at a intersection and see how many people come nose diving into the stop....fun stuff
     
  28. mac1911

    mac1911 NES Member

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    and get the shim kit....
     
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  29. Mark from MA

    Mark from MA NES Member

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    I get after market parts. Usually middle of the road rotors and good pads. Ive done brakes on Nissan, Dodge, Hyundai, Ford and Chevy. Never any noise.

    Toyota has strange brakes that may require shims. Most of Toyota factory parts are made in USA. I think if I had a Toyota I would buy the OEM parts because their brakes are weird.

    Not cleaning and taking rust and buildup under the hardware slides can cause sticking and squeaking.

    I take off the old hardware and cleanup under where that sits real good back to bare metal. Yes, this can take a while. But if you just put the new hardware on odds are high that the pad ears get pinched and dont slde freely, because they are on a layer of rust and gunk.

    Then I grease that area with a thin layer. Then put new hardware on.
    Then very thinly grease that and the pad ears. I also grease the back of the pad where the caliper presses on. I make sure the caliper piston face is as clean as I can get it.

    Never any issues.
     
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2019
  30. mibro

    mibro NES Member

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    Thanks for the correction. All so true.
     

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