Brake repair issues

mac1911

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had a 2015 ford transit in today....rear caliper pins frozen in the bracket. I dont screw around with trying to free up rotted shit and put new pins and boots back into the rotted hole it came out of. The new pins will rot just as fast if not faster. Im still a firm believer there is something going on between the 2 different metals and the grease causing more issues inside the pin/hole.
Anyway the added labor to wrestle rusted stuff apart in a for profit shop is a waste of customers money and my time.
Then to top it off the new calipers came with bleeder screws that where not finished machined.....fun fun
 

Lsgun1

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I will argue that....plenty of customers want to try and hang out and watch. The ones who think its OK to smoke around us are the worst.
you took it the wrong way. It's not a sport that you are rooting for on tv. The guys doing it don't want you watching them. As soon as you bust out your BFH or the torch they freak out cause they have no clue.
 
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Mechanic is not a spectator sport
I have found South Main Auto on youtube is very informative and entertaining.
Good content for the novice or the old broken down master tech like me.

And for anyone afraid of a torch, look up magnetic induction heater, good for heating stuck bolts but pricey if you only use it once.
 

je25ff

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This is after I soaked the shit out of it with PB blaster. Going to let it sit to see if I can get them to budge tomorrow.
 

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xjma99

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I will argue that....plenty of customers want to try and hang out and watch. The ones who think its OK to smoke around us are the worst.
I worked at a garage at the end of HS and then a while after, learned a lot, and wouldn’t be an electrician without that experience. Blue tip wrench and BFH (and knowing where to apply them) are the most important tools in any snap-on tool chest!! Learned from two talented Motörhead’s that grew up with a race car driving father, and both worked the motor pool. Both also were never seen without a butt hanging out of their mouth! Different times, but you weren’t allowed in the shop if you weren’t smoking!!
 

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Box end wrench of proper size, get it on there, crank wheel for access, add ~1.25-1.5” rigid pipe onto wrench, and then step on it. Something will break free. On the opposite side, do the same but use a jack to push the pipe upwards until the bolts break free. Works every time. A heat and quick cool cycle may make things easier but careful with heat around brake calipers and lines, can do more damage than good if you apply heat in the wrong place.
 

mac1911

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I worked at a garage at the end of HS and then a while after, learned a lot, and wouldn’t be an electrician without that experience. Blue tip wrench and BFH (and knowing where to apply them) are the most important tools in any snap-on tool chest!! Learned from two talented Motörhead’s that grew up with a race car driving father, and both worked the motor pool. Both also were never seen without a butt hanging out of their mouth! Different times, but you weren’t allowed in the shop if you weren’t smoking!!
i grew up around men that had many skills including functional drunk and amazing cigarette smoking skills.
 
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This.

There are caliper bolts, and caliper bracket bolts. 2 on each part.

If your just changing pads, you only need to pull the caliper bolts, which are usually smaller in size. Usually you can loosen both, leave one in and swing the pads up.

If changing the rotor, which is what I always do you need to remove the bracket bolts. I actually remove everything, clean all the surfaces where the slides go, lube them, all the hardware, and then reassemble.

There may or may not be a screw or screws holding the rotor on, that is what an the impact driver is for.

Check out Eric O on Youtube from South Main Auto. He does brakes the right way, has a bunch of different brake videos.
In New England, I've added the step of:
While off the car, scab /scale rust off of caliper if it has any, scale off bracket. Paint with cailper paint. Put back on while still wet. Touch any rust in the wheel well with wire brush and Preston's derustifier. Follow up with black Rust-Oleum.

The 4r I bought 7 years ago got new front calipers the first year I bought it. They still look new 6 years later.

Also it makes it look cool to have red calipers on a beater. Speed parts in a can, man.
 

mac1911

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I am a stubborn, stubborn man, my friend.
take the $400 you saved and buy a impact gun/compressor or a cordless.
or at least a 24" breaker bar and a set of 6 pt shallow sockets and make sure your square on the caliper bolts those bolt heads are a bit shallow and sckets can slip easily

im shocked to see your bleeder screw sporting its condom. Either no one has touched your breaks, or someone knows enough to put them back on. Its amazing how more bleeder screws will free up when they have thier condoms on.
 

Lsgun1

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take the $400 you saved and buy a impact gun/compressor or a cordless.
or at least a 24" breaker bar and a set of 6 pt shallow sockets and make sure your square on the caliper bolts those bolt heads are a bit shallow and sckets can slip easily

im shocked to see your bleeder screw sporting its condom. Either no one has touched your breaks, or someone knows enough to put them back on. Its amazing how more bleeder screws will free up when they have thier condoms on.
Agree with the impact gun statement. If you don't want to go the air tool route get the Milwaukee Fuel line of tools. The 3/8th impact will do most jobs.
 

TrashcanDan

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This thread reads like a 3 stooges episode.
G.M. Caliper bolts are notoriously difficult, as I think Mac already stated.
Heat is the answer you seek, and no, not white hot, or even red.
And no, don't heat it up then try to break it loose, this is how sheared or twisted off bolt heads happen.
Heat it up (the area of the caliper bracket where the caliper bolts are), shoot it with pen oil, and let it sit for a few. Be prepared for the sweet smokey aroma (and smoke) of pen oil cooking off.
Rinse, repeat a few times.
 

xjma99

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This thread reads like a 3 stooges episode.
G.M. Caliper bolts are notoriously difficult, as I think Mac already stated.
Heat is the answer you seek, and no, not white hot, or even red.
And no, don't heat it up then try to break it loose, this is how sheared or twisted off bolt heads happen.
Heat it up (the area of the caliper bracket where the caliper bolts are), shoot it with pen oil, and let it sit for a few. Be prepared for the sweet smokey aroma (and smoke) of pen oil cooking off.
Rinse, repeat a few times.
This is an operation best seen in person the first time atleast. There are a lot of parts nearby that won’t take kindly to heat....
 

mac1911

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This is an operation best seen in person the first time atleast. There are a lot of parts nearby that won’t take kindly to heat....
Again , if you cant figure out what not to heat or how much heat dont do it.
A simple small map gas with a small tip is plenty enough to get the molecules moving and soften the thread locker.
 

je25ff

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Now I'm wondering if an investment in a compressor and air tools is worth it? Someone school me...clearly I am not afraid of being schooled.
 

appraiser

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I bought a whole slew of Milwaukee M12 and M18 tools last year, when I moved my tools to the Florida house I sent my compressor too, Since it got here at the end of August I have used it ONCE, and that was only because I needed it to raise the motorcycle lift.

The M18 high torque 1/2 drive impact wrench is a monster. I'll probably never use my air tools, with the exception of my die grinder and auto body sanders/spray guns again.

IMG_20200130_192111225.jpg
 
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Now I'm wondering if an investment in a compressor and air tools is worth it? Someone school me...clearly I am not afraid of being schooled.
Now don't tell my son, but I've come to accept that the batt electric impacts have gotten to the point where they can stand in for a good air impact. I've got the full complement of air tools, Mac, Matco, Snap-On, IH, not the cheap shit. But my sons electric can do the job as well, mine are from a past professional life as a mechanic, my son is currently a mechanic for somewhat larger equipment. He's got 3/4" electric that will shear a lug bolt on a truck, but you're probably good with a 1/2"
 
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