big boy

A new belt and some belt dressing did a world of good for the 16" SB I have at work. I do like my variable speed Rockwell I have at home. It's heavily built for a small lathe and accurate.

You could toss a VFD on the SB to have infinitely variable speed.
 
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I found on my old logan slowing it way down and swapping to a serpentine belt instead of the leather one. then I was able to do nice deep cuts on steel (barrels esp) But yea on an old machine HSS is what you should be using.
 
What's difficult about moving the matador?

The lift can't Handel its weight . So If i ever want to move it out it be even more money for me to pay. Plus they don't want more personal own equipment there .
I wish I could sell it and put the money towards a 12x36 .


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I found on my old logan slowing it way down and swapping to a serpentine belt instead of the leather one. then I was able to do nice deep cuts on steel (barrels esp) But yea on an old machine HSS is what you should be using.

I've heard about using a serpentine belt . Just not sure how to glue the belt and have it last .


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I re-belted the 16" SB lathe at work with a synthetic split belt about 20 years ago. It wasn't difficult at all.
 
It's the flat belt that's the main problem . I've looked at getting a replacement that uses a the laced and pin setup but dont really want to hear click click click lol .
I just found that ore sliced belt last week but been to tied up to measure and put a order in .

The linked v belts (power twist etc) are hit or miss for tracking on the flat belt pulleys .
I tried it all ready.
I've swapped most of the machines over to them in the shop.
I plan on replacing the motor belt with one .

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Need to thread and cut the lug slot .
Bolt needs lugs cut , bolt face, firing pin and tap for bolt handled .


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I've made adjustments etc . I'm basically stalling the spindle . The belt then slips on one of the pulleys and then pops off. I'm trying a new belt today so maybe that helps . Some of the stuff I've tried to cut i can't be aggressive enough to make a chip . Carbide..... lol so I'm stuck using high speed steel.
Part of it is the flat belt system . Parts of it is having the right speeds .
If you look at the bolt it was more dull before I did some finish work . In the past when I turn 4140 I get a nice shinny finish and nice chips .


I just personally think the maker space made a huge mistake buying this lathe.
For the same price they could of gotten a new more ridged gap bed grizzly. I'm spoiled since I've mainly used gear driven lathes with way more gears lol . Also the damn thing didn't come with a steady or follow rest . The tail stock can only drill 2" ....

For what these machines go for used , I'd buy the grizzly .
If I could affordable to move my matador to the makers space I'd do that since it just sitting right now .


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I can try to find the time later, but i have a Logan 820 leather belt drive lathe. You can SOLVE this problem by making yourself a new belt out of a car engine serpentine belt of the right size or sliced and glued properly. The grip is so much better i've never had a belt slip off under load ever since. I used to have to de-glaze my leather belts from time to time, too....these things were made to turn metal so you should be able to get chips or something is wrong.
 
I can try to find the time later, but i have a Logan 820 leather belt drive lathe. You can SOLVE this problem by making yourself a new belt out of a car engine serpentine belt of the right size or sliced and glued properly. The grip is so much better i've never had a belt slip off under load ever since. I used to have to de-glaze my leather belts from time to time, too....these things were made to turn metal so you should be able to get chips or something is wrong.

It's more I'm spoiled by bigger stronger faster gear driven machines . I learned on a 16" ish monarch from the 40's .

I've read about using the car belt but mixed results on what glue to use


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It's more I'm spoiled by bigger stronger faster gear driven machines . I learned on a 16" ish monarch from the 40's .

I've read about using the car belt but mixed results on what glue to use


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Yes you need to glue properly or the belts just fail. You can buy the rubber belts intact but usually requites you to remove the spindle from the head to install them. I usually see my belt driven machine as a safeguard against me being a total hack. If i try to do something stupid, the belt slips :)
 
Small update .
I work harden the bolt face cutting the under cut for the extractor . It was a shell holder type . Ie the extractor is built into the bolt face . I pushed the keyway cutter to hard .and destroyed the bit and work harden the area .

I tossed this in my tool box and been dealing with a bunch of bull shit .

I took it out of my box . Stared at it for a bit . Had a few shots with it . And figured out a way to move forward .

Any one know a good deal on a drop in ar trigger ? Like the ones that are self contained that should be strong enough to set the primer off .
Any one know a good heat treating place that’s local ?
 
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