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Thanks everyone for the feedback on this one. I'll be calling Santurri tomorrow to schedule a drop off. Really want that peace of mind going into this hunt that took me long enough ti draw a tag for. Eventually I'll learn to do it myself but don;t need any complications before my trip.
my dad always said if you aint got a torque wrench pinch the allen wrench at the bend with thumb and forefinger and give it a snug.....BTW guyz, if you loosen a properly-torqued machine screw m.n turns,
and then retighten it m.n turns (so that the slot clocks to the same angle),
is it properly torqued?
(Assuming no loctite or anti-seize For Great Simplicity).
Not a trick question. I figure the proper answer is one of:
I ain't got no inch-pound wrench,
- Uh duh.
- Oh noes! Because <insert obscure metal property here>.
and I wouldn't want to try to shade-tree gunsmith something delicate
with that hack, only to discover that metal fasteners
are like some Don Henley lyric where you can never go back.
Otherwise...
^ This.
for hunting ? hmm depends I guess but point blank range should do just fine. For so many hunting applications to 3.5" 4" high at 100 yards will get you a into a 10" kill zone shot on a deer out to a touch over 300 yards with a few handfuls of different cartridges. If your playing with your turrets or hold overs on your reticle theres more work to do for sure. If your shooting beyond these distances still a little more work to be done,Can’t go wrong with Dave. Just make sure before your trip you zero it in for the distances you think you’ll be hunting at or at least a known zero that will suit your needs.
GL and have fun.
Op, leveling a scope is super easy and you get the best results doing it yourself. With a set of levels(I prefer fix it sticks), a torque driver in inch pounds, and some loctite you can setup the scope specifically for you.
Everyone’s eyes and length of pull are different. Where you rest your cheek on the stock is also not the same. By doing it yourself you can bring the scope in or out to the perfect distance from your eye. This is something a gunsmith can’t do unless you are literally holding the gun, eye behind the scope while he levels it. He can probably get it close, but never as perfect as you will be able to.
This video explains everything perfectly.
View: https://youtu.be/COoXVpGfXQE
Also most manufacturers will give torque specs for each screw. An example would be Seekins Precision says to torque their scope caps to 20 inch pounds and the rail mounts to between 20 and 25 inch pounds.
then you replace the stock. seriously.Lets say you dont have any provisions for stock adjusting
My mind says no on this. I've seen torque specs call for tightening a bolt to spec then loosen and re-torque (think AR barrell nut). I assume there is a science behind this method.BTW guyz, if you loosen a properly-torqued machine screw m.n turns,
and then retighten it m.n turns (so that the slot clocks to the same angle),
is it properly torqued?
(Assuming no loctite or anti-seize For Great Simplicity).
Not a trick question. I figure the proper answer is one of:
I ain't got no inch-pound wrench,
- Uh duh.
- Oh noes! Because <insert obscure metal property here>.
and I wouldn't want to try to shade-tree gunsmith something delicate
with that hack, only to discover that metal fasteners
are like some Don Henley lyric where you can never go back.
Otherwise...
^ This.
In an, er, pinch I imagine how heavy the 10 pound Panasonic TV wasmy dad always said if you aint got a torque wrench pinch the allen wrench at the bend with thumb and forefinger and give it a snug.....
Beyond my experience, but sounds like an excellent (counter)example.I've seen torque specs call for tightening a bolt to spec then loosen and re-torque (think AR barrell nut). I assume there is a science behind this method.
A comb riser is not going to help a “natural cant do to body contour or stick design.then you replace the stock. seriously.
or you can put some foam and tape to build up self-made cheek rest.
with a proper stock you should be able to play with rings size to set scope at the correct eye level - so on the cz mtr i have i had to use taller than required rings to get that done. not an end of the world, as long as it aligns well what you bring rifle up with eyes closed and then open your eyes.
Believe me , for rings from 20-30 inch pounds this method will work . Or order a torque driver in inlbsIn an, er, pinch I imagine how heavy the 10 pound Panasonic TV was
that we got for camping when I was a kid,
and then do the math to derive a torque.
But that's mainly for when I'm stuck on a desert island without a torque wrench.
Beyond my experience, but sounds like an excellent (counter)example.
Loosen the screws, turn a little, tighten screws.I had my scope mounted by a local shop but the reticle is off. One side is higher than the other and I want it corrected before rifle season. Anyone have a go-to guy in MA, south of Boston?
BTW guyz, if you loosen a properly-torqued machine screw m.n turns,
and then retighten it m.n turns (so that the slot clocks to the same angle),
is it properly torqued?
(Assuming no loctite or anti-seize For Great Simplicity).
Not a trick question. I figure the proper answer is one of:
I ain't got no inch-pound wrench,
- Uh duh.
- Oh noes! Because <insert obscure metal property here>.
and I wouldn't want to try to shade-tree gunsmith something delicate
with that hack, only to discover that metal fasteners
are like some Don Henley lyric where you can never go back.
Otherwise...
^ This.
Right. A torqued bolt is under tension. In effect, it's a spring. There are a bunch of things to look out for, including creep that can affect final torque.Nope.
Bolts stretch. Washers flatten.
Use a torque wrench to get properly torqued bolts.
It might be "good enough", but it's not "properly torqued".
the old way to torque the mount was to use one with the 60in/lb nuts and then you tighten those nuts firm by hand, as much as you can, then get a wrench and add one 180deg rotation.Believe me , for rings from 20-30 inch pounds this method will work . Or order a torque driver in inlbs
Not w fan of amazon but says I can have it tomorrow
Amazon product ASIN B0012AXR4SView: https://www.amazon.com/Wheeler-Accurizing-Measurement-Gunsmithing-Maintenance/dp/B0012AXR4S/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=3IIL9SFZ3EADP&dchild=1&keywords=in+lb+torque+wrench&qid=1635156062&qsid=136-9077671-6984346&sprefix=inlb+&sr=8-5&sres=B01M12284X%2CB07M68FY3X%2CB0012AXR4S%2CB00C5ZL2EG%2CB01FMXEWQC%2CB01LX4ND65%2CB001F7VJIO%2CB005EB9O9S%2CB00SNICDJC%2CB07DP6ZS7G%2CB08RBCFY92%2CB07WSS52T5%2CB016KC2SNS%2CB07BYC1V9Y&srpt=WRENCH
make sure and work up some dope. The elevation is much higher and trajectory will be slightly different from sea level to out there.Thanks everyone for the feedback on this one. I'll be calling Santurri tomorrow to schedule a drop off. Really want that peace of mind going into this hunt that took me long enough ti draw a tag for. Eventually I'll learn to do it myself but don;t need any complications before my trip.
I assume I'll have to use my left hand to pinch the allen wrenchBelieve me , for rings from 20-30 inch pounds this method will work .my dad always said if you aint got a torque wrench pinch the allen wrench at the bend with thumb and forefinger and give it a snug.....