Basement window leak

[assaultknifle]

Hey fellas. With the heavy rain I had some water come through the window well into the basement. It wasn't bad but want to patch it up so it doesn't happen again. Any recommendations on sealants, other advice, or contractors you've had good experiences with? I'm on the north shore. Thanks!

 

[TLB]

Figure out why it happened. Check where downspouts dump their water, grading near the foundation, and if your gutters overflowed because they need to be cleaned.

 

[Asaltweapon]

Window well cover???

 

[Wooderson]

 

[cams]

All of this ^^^.

 

[mousegunfan]

Window well cover???

This! And clean out your gutters.

 

[PL-52]

Dig out and install aluminum window wells, backfill 1/4 of the the way up but less than a foot from bottom of window with 3/4 crushed stone. Fill outside with loam and then seed or sod. Use the window well covers in the winter. Done. Did all my basement windows over in 2002 and did the window wells then. Never a drop in or around on the inside. Clean your gutters and use downspout splash blocks or deflectors to run water away from foundation.

 

[assaultknifle]

Figure out why it happened. Check where downspouts dump their water, grading near the foundation, and if your gutters overflowed because they need to be cleaned.

It turns out the tie rod holes weren't sealed so i'm getting small leaks from just 2-3 of them. I was told epoxy adhesive works great but they have to dry out first.

 

[TrashcanDan]

This could be a candidate for @Broccoli Iglesias mega-thread

 

[TrashcanDan]

Don't forget to stuff your caulk in it

 

[AHM]

It turns out the tie rod holes weren't sealed so i'm getting small leaks from just 2-3 of them. I was told epoxy adhesive works great but they have to dry out first.

As God is my witness,
I thought I was reading the Vehicle Undercoating thread...

 

[ThePreBanMan]

View attachment 500966

beat me to it.

 

[Asaltweapon]

Don't forget to stuff your caulk in it

Some backer rod may be necessary with some caulking guns.

 

[old fashioned]

Black caulk works best on those large cracks!

 

[Marty McFly]

It turns out the tie rod holes weren't sealed so i'm getting small leaks from just 2-3 of them. I was told epoxy adhesive works great but they have to dry out first.

Hydrophobic polyurethane.
I own a basement waterproofing foundation repair and concrete cutting and demolition company. Pm me if you want suggestions

 

[Marty McFly]

Caulking is temporary.

High pressure injection is forever.

 

[SpencerT]

Caulking is temporary.

High pressure injection is forever.

That’s what she said

 

[Marty McFly]

That’s what she said

Marry her

 

[bauer]

Don't forget to stuff your caulk in it

This wins the internet for the day

 

[TrashcanDan]

It turns out the tie rod holes weren't sealed so i'm getting small leaks from just 2-3 of them. I was told epoxy adhesive works great but they have to dry out first.

Ties are probably rotten out.
The ones we used to use were were like an A-36 structural steel. After about a week or two of exposure you could start to see rust trails.
Go with what @dgrantdoherty uses, thats the best option

 

[Spanz]

It turns out the tie rod holes weren't sealed so i'm getting small leaks from just 2-3 of them. I was told epoxy adhesive works great but they have to dry out first.

that flex seal stuff, as seen on tv, actually works surprisingly well. and it can be applied to damp surfaces

 

[assaultknifle]

Caulking is temporary.

High pressure injection is forever.

I'm going to grind out the holes a bit to fit these fellas: Amazon product ASIN B06X9GD4LFView: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9GD4LF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


then

I'm going to use this thing to seal them: Amazon product ASIN B07M5N8T4QView: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M5N8T4Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I have some hairline cracks too but they're not leaking (yet). This kit here seems to work well for people: Amazon product ASIN B00II7JOHMView: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00II7JOHM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


What'd ya think?

 

[Marty McFly]

The problem with kit crack repair stuff is in order to have the polymer "kick" quickly they need to give up flexibility. So they work and get good reviews but end up leaking after the foundation has had a chance to cycle thermally. A good percentage of repairs we go to has had some version of these kits used on them.

It ends up costing the customer more in the end since they are harder to inject and achieve continuity between injection packers.

If you are sure you want to go the diy route. Don't plan on a permanent fix. When a company comes in and injects they may push thier machine to 5000 psi to insure they have filled the entire crack. You can't get that out of a caulking gun. Ties on a foundation are an easy fix. Those compression fittings work for the most part as long as the drill hole is absolutely perfect. So you will need to drill the steel first then follow with a hammer drill.
I tend to through drill and inject a hydrophobic polyurethane to the outside of the tie. If its plugged on the inside you still have water in your wall.

This isn't meant to discourage you doing it yourself. Just to come up with the best way to do it.

Hope that helps

 

[assaultknifle]

The problem with kit crack repair stuff is in order to have the polymer "kick" quickly they need to give up flexibility. So they work and get good reviews but end up leaking after the foundation has had a chance to cycle thermally. A good percentage of repairs we go to has had some version of these kits used on them.

It ends up costing the customer more in the end since they are harder to inject and achieve continuity between injection packers.

If you are sure you want to go the diy route. Don't plan on a permanent fix. When a company comes in and injects they may push thier machine to 5000 psi to insure they have filled the entire crack. You can't get that out of a caulking gun. Ties on a foundation are an easy fix. Those compression fittings work for the most part as long as the drill hole is absolutely perfect. So you will need to drill the steel first then follow with a hammer drill.
I tend to through drill and inject a hydrophobic polyurethane to the outside of the tie. If its plugged on the inside you still have water in your wall.

This isn't meant to discourage you doing it yourself. Just to come up with the best way to do it.

Hope that helps

Got it thanks for the advice. I'm working on an external fix to get the water away from the house. What's your company's name? Do you want to come for an estimate? I tried to PM you but it's not working.