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Barrel recommendation

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I'm planning to build a new AR. The overall intent is for it to be a long range precision shooter. I have been doing some research as far as barrel length and chrome versus stainless steel. This will be my first build and could use some advice from guys that have done this before. As of right now I'm leaning towards a 20" stainless barrel, rifle length gas block. Please confirm my decision or talk me out of it and provide a better option. I am also looking for manufacturer recommendations. I've also been reading .223 Wylde chamber might be the way to go. I'm happy to hear opinions on that if anyone has experience. Thanks in advance for any advice.
 
Bartlein , Krieger , Douglass , wilson in no particular order, what do you plan on shooting for ammo as some are chambered for particular bullet profiles.
looking at barrels the other night and seen Compass lake offering a varmint chamber utilized for mag length load ammo ?
if your shooting long range and tossing 80 grain bullets consider that also.
have fun
 
Not sure on the ammo yet. I have not really done research. I am not competing or anything. I just want to build an accurate rifle for my own fun and seeing how well I can do with it. I'm happy to hear recommendations in regards to ammo as well.
 
I'd say you need to consider exactly how you define "long range". Are you talking 1K meters? If so, that will limit your choices of bullets--and you might want to consider stepping up to a cartridge case with more internal volume than .223 Remington.

Also--how do you define "precision"? If you were able to hit a 10 inch plate consistently at (say) 600 yards, would that satisfy you? If so, the world is your oyster--any decent barrel should give you 1.5 MOA in accuracy. Now it's on you to learn to read the wind, and you can do it all day long.

If your definition of "accuracy" is to consistently shoot 30 rounds into 1 raggged hole 1/2 inch across at 100 yards, well that is another (more expensive) standard you have set for yourself.

The most accurate bullets at long range tend to be heavier, longer, and more streamlined. Heavier, longer, more streamlined bullets will do best with a 1/7 barrel twist. Heavier, longer, more streamlined bullets ALSO tend to be more expensive. Do you reload? If not, are you willing to either pay .75 to $1 a round OR put up with shooting mediocre groups?

If (on reflection) you want to divide your shooting between heavy, precise, expensive bullets at 600 yards, and cheaper 55 grain plinking bullets at closer ranges (50-250 yards), consider going with a 1/8 twist barrel.

As for barrel weight, if you plan on always shooting from a bench, go with a bull barrel.

If you plan on carrying your rifle quite a bit, the extra weight gets old fast.

If you are new to long-range shooting, go watch the Sniper 101 series on Youtube.

SNIPER 101 - YouTube

He'll get you up to speed pretty quick with relevant information, including cartridge selection. You just have fast-forward to the relevant content through the head-banger music intros.

Inre: barrels--yeah the Krieger, Bartlein, Douglas barrels are all quite good, and they are a bit spendy--but I think the Larue barrels are a very good value at the price point (do spend the extra $20 for the M4 feed ramps).

5.56 Stealth Barrel - LaRue Tactical

Out of the box, the Rock Rivers uppers I've seen have a real good reputation for 3/4 MOA accuracy.

I think I read that they use Wilson stainless blanks:

Wilson Arms 20" .223 Wylde 1x8 Stainless Steel Bull Barrel Stripped

If you're building from scratch, consider going with a stiffer upper receiver than the M4 flat-top (read: billet upper receiver), if you want to hang a lot of weight off the front end.

I think this (MEGA Part# MKM620HA $279) is a smoking deal on a billet upper and free-floated forearm--if you can take heckling from the gear-queers over the uncool Keymod holes:

https://www.brownells.com/rifle-parts/receiver-parts/receivers/upper-receivers/ar-15-5-56mm-assembled-upper-receivers-keymod-prod113025.aspx?avs|Special-Filters_1=Salezz1zzClearance&avs|Manufacturer_1=MEGA+ARMS

The MKM620HA is a 16" Free-floated forend.

Google the part number for pics.

Good luck with your build.
 
if i remeber correctly white oak uses wilson blanks also for thier base line.

I have a wilson arms on my RRA AR upper and with a solid rest and good light i can shoot sub moa with nosler CC 68s/77s on good days. Im a 3moa shooter on average shooting prone to 300 yards....600 im just happy to keep them in the black.
 
Thanks for all the good info. I already have a couple ARs for close to medium range (under 500 yards). I already have some knowledge of making wind adjustments as well. I currently do not reload but I plan to in the future.

I'm going with 5.56 for this particular rifle. I plan to eventually get a .308 bolt action. Ultimately I'd like to have an AR that can consistently hit a 10 inch circle at 600 yards.

Thanks again for all the great info. And nice dog 1919
 
Thanks for all the good info. I already have a couple ARs for close to medium range (under 500 yards). I already have some knowledge of making wind adjustments as well. I currently do not reload but I plan to in the future.

I'm going with 5.56 for this particular rifle. I plan to eventually get a .308 bolt action. Ultimately I'd like to have an AR that can consistently hit a 10 inch circle at 600 yards.


Thanks again for all the great info. And nice dog 1919
Thanks for all the good info. I already have a couple ARs for close to medium range (under 500 yards). I already have some knowledge of making wind adjustments as well. I currently do not reload but I plan to in the future.

I'm going with 5.56 for this particular rifle. I plan to eventually get a .308 bolt action. Ultimately I'd like to have an AR that can consistently hit a 10 inch circle at 600 yards.

Thanks again for all the great info. And nice dog 1919
You should have no problem with most decent barrels producing 1.5moa is. A better shooter than me proved my rifle is capable of 10 ring at 600 yards. SR target 10 ring is 12" at 600. I'm happy to keep them in the black. I'm happy to keep them in the black bull at 600
 
I'm planning to build a new AR. The overall intent is for it to be a long range precision shooter. I have been doing some research as far as barrel length and chrome versus stainless steel. This will be my first build and could use some advice from guys that have done this before. As of right now I'm leaning towards a 20" stainless barrel, rifle length gas block. Please confirm my decision or talk me out of it and provide a better option. I am also looking for manufacturer recommendations. I've also been reading .223 Wylde chamber might be the way to go. I'm happy to hear opinions on that if anyone has experience. Thanks in advance for any advice.

OK. In addition to barrels, don't underestimate the accuracy gains a nice trigger can provide.

Larue's MTB is on sale for $99.

LaRue Tactical MBT-2S Trigger - LaRue Tactical

Geisssele's can be had for $175 if you are patient and can wait for a sale:

Super Semi-Automatic Enhanced (SSA-E) Trigger

Lastly--the Rock River Match and Varmint triggers are decent for the money, and can be had with a good lower parts kit included for $129.

All the best.
 
Bumping this thread: 4140 versus 4150? I'm debating between a Bartlein (4140) or Brux (4150). This would be for a 7.62 NATO, 1-in-10 twist carbine that would primarily shoot M80 ball or loads similar thereto when finished.

Barrel FAQ

Vide
 
Chamber: .223 Wylde, no doubt.
Barrel length: 18 and up.
Twist: 1 in 8.
Manufacturer: Krieger, Lilja, Bartlein, Proof Research, White Oak Armory, McGowen, JP, , Criterion, Ballistic Advantage Hanson or Premium. White Oak and JP come with matching bolts.
 
Bumping this thread: 4140 versus 4150? I'm debating between a Bartlein (4140) or Brux (4150). This would be for a 7.62 NATO, 1-in-10 twist carbine that would primarily shoot M80 ball or loads similar thereto when finished.

Barrel FAQ

Vide
Why bother with a Bartlein or better barrel to shoot shyte ammo? M80 will live up to its potential out of a DPMS barrel, all day long. Dignify your Match barrel with match ammo, or hand loads.
 
Why bother with a Bartlein or better barrel to shoot shyte ammo? M80 will live up to its potential out of a DPMS barrel, all day long. Dignify your Match barrel with match ammo, or hand loads.

This isn't going on an AR. This is going on a gun that's going to have a non-standard barrel length because it'll be a clone of a certain historic gun. Chopping an original barrel would be more expensive than a new barrel blank and would count against 922(r).
 
IN that case, I'd go with a Bartlein. But keep in mind that they usually come unchambered, so you'll need a gunsmith to ream a chamber out for you. If it's a clone of a historic gun, the profiles they offer might not be correct either, so he might have to turn it down too. Plus headspacing. How that can be cheaper than chopping the original is beyond me. You're looking at around $400 in gun smithing plus the price of the tube.
 
IN that case, I'd go with a Bartlein. But keep in mind that they usually come unchambered, so you'll need a gunsmith to ream a chamber out for you. If it's a clone of a historic gun, the profiles they offer might not be correct either, so he might have to turn it down too. Plus headspacing. How that can be cheaper than chopping the original is beyond me. You're looking at around $400 in gun smithing plus the price of the tube.

Original barrels cost around $300, assuming I can even find one:

https://ernstarmory.com/product.sc?productId=420&categoryId=39

https://ernstarmory.com/product.sc?productId=546&categoryId=39

Then I or a gunsmith would still have to chop the barrel, have it re-crowned and re-threaded, and headspace with the bolt. One advantage is I would have the front sight/gas block already. Disadvantages are that they'd cut against 922(r) compliance, they're old barrels that have been through at least one war, probably more, and I'd be cutting up something that's pretty rare.

You're probably right, I likely undercalculated the price of a new blank and then machining it to work. But, I'd have a new 922(r)-friendly barrel.
 
JP uses a Wylde chamber and, last i checked, Wilson barrels. None of their guns have ever let me down - I have JPs in 308/556/9mm. Wylde is find with 5.56 and .223, so I am not sure of the official caliber designation of those barrels.
 
I'm planning to build a new AR. The overall intent is for it to be a long range precision shooter. I have been doing some research as far as barrel length and chrome versus stainless steel. This will be my first build and could use some advice from guys that have done this before. As of right now I'm leaning towards a 20" stainless barrel, rifle length gas block. Please confirm my decision or talk me out of it and provide a better option. I am also looking for manufacturer recommendations. I've also been reading .223 Wylde chamber might be the way to go. I'm happy to hear opinions on that if anyone has experience. Thanks in advance for any advice.
Four of our rifles (two Savage Axis models in .223 and .308, a Mini 14 ranch and a 10/22) have stainless barrels and stainless actions. Excellent accuracy, less prone to corrosion and easier to maintain. Barrel life will depend upon a number of factors, such as type of ammo used, allowing the barrel to cool, etc. Stainless is definitely my chojce
 
Bumping this thread: 4140 versus 4150? I'm debating between a Bartlein (4140) or Brux (4150). This would be for a 7.62 NATO, 1-in-10 twist carbine that would primarily shoot M80 ball or loads similar thereto when finished.

Barrel FAQ

Vide
Dumping M80 ball it matters not.
find a barrel that will work for your needs. There has to be a non historic option out there you can cut and use ?
 
Dumping M80 ball it matters not.
find a barrel that will work for your needs. There has to be a non historic option out there you can cut and use ?

I could chop down a DSA barrel but those have a different barrel contour than an original FN or LEW R1 barrel. Functionally, this makes no difference, but it wouldn't be "right" historically.
 
I could chop down a DSA barrel but those have a different barrel contour than an original FN or LEW R1 barrel. Functionally, this makes no difference, but it wouldn't be "right" historically.
It would be a lot of work but Can you could recontour the barrel ?
Im sure one of the custom barrel makers out there could do it but you looking at a good amount of cash.
 
SHILEN - CONTOUR #4 BARREL 26 inch 416 Stainless Steel. Shilen barrels, either chrome moly or Stainless, are rifled with six lands and grooves by the “Cold Forming” process using carbide dies made in Shilen’s own plant under the most rigid controls. This rifling method achieves extremely close inside uniformity from breech to muzzle. Finished barrels are air-gauge inspected (air-gauged sensitivity is .00005" - five-one-hundred-thousandths!) and 6X borescope in- spected. All barrels, .22 through .30 caliber have groove tolerances within .0005" and uniformity within .0003" No straightening is done, and all barrels are completely stress-relieved. All stainless steel barrels are hand lapped at the factory.
I have used these barrels to make precision long distance AR rifles
Many of the company's that have been suggested do not even make there own barrels the barrels they sell are contracted out to other barrel manufactures and there name just gets stamped on.
 
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It would be a lot of work but Can you could recontour the barrel ?
Im sure one of the custom barrel makers out there could do it but you looking at a good amount of cash.

I think that just ordering a blank would be easier than re-contouring. If I use a DSA barrel, I would just cut it, re-crown, and re-thread.
 
if i remeber correctly white oak uses wilson blanks also for thier base line.

I have a wilson arms on my RRA AR upper and with a solid rest and good light i can shoot sub moa with nosler CC 68s/77s on good days. Im a 3moa shooter on average shooting prone to 300 yards....600 im just happy to keep them in the black.

White Oak has different options. My current white oak barrel is a shilen. But they offer Krieger as well.

OP, go with a 223 Wylde in 1/8 or 1/7.7. 1/7 is more twist than you need, even for most hand loaded 80gr rounds. And I find 1/8 to be more precise for some reason. But 1/7 will still be fine if thats the only offering in the barrel you’re looking at.

For brand, lots of good options. But I’ve never been disappointed with white oak. And their customer service is top notch. When I’ve ordered parts that may not be compatible or require custom fitting, they call me before shipment and explain the technical nuances to make sure I still want to submit the order.
 
Green Mountain Barrels, Conway NH. Been making military stuff for a while. They make a nice .223 Wylde in stainless. 18"
 
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