Assemble a stripped ar lower

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So I tried searching I can't find anything specific to this. There any tools beside an armorers wrench that is absolutely needed and is there a walk through on how to assemble a lower that is easy to follow?
 
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Youtube has a bunch of videos on assembling a lower, and they are all about the same. It's not a hard process at all. You can pretty much do it all with a hammer. An AR wrench helps with the castle nut, but it can be done without one. You can get an inexpensive Tapco wrench for about $15.

Here's the first video that comes up on a Youtube search. It does the job.

 
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appraiser

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the hardest part is finding the springs that will try to liberate themselves during the assembly process.

Masking tape, basic hand tools, and good eyes are all you need
 
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I did two JUST this morning, for my first time ever. Took me about an hour and twenty minutes, two youtube videoes (one for general assembly, and one for specific trigger ammembly because first vid wasnt clear) and NO sweat. I needed the Stock tool, which i luckily ordered. Other than that all i used was a flathead to screw in the grip, small allen key to push in detend pins, and adjustable wrench to push in the roll pins. Honestly, it was surprisingly easy.
 

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I used a hammer, vise grips, and duct tape. I do not own special tools, nor am I going to buy any. I used tools I already had around the house.

Besides the castle nut wrench tool I bought obviously. I bought a DPMS Armorer's wrench. Solid tool. It's like 10 tools in 1.



- - - Updated - - -

I bought it at First Defense. other than that, I used everyday tools, and mine came out perfect with no scratches anywhere.
 
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As said, only the most basic tools are needed such as a small hammer, punch, masking tape, etc., but there are a couple of tools that definitely make the job a lot easier and reduce the chance of damaging your finishes. These are the castlenut wrench, a long roll pin starter punch, and a nice set of channel locks (or similar. I have the Crafstman Robogrip which worked very well) with soft jaw covers (or taped). The starter punch and channel locks are great for getting in the roll pin on the bolt release because this is where most receiver scratches occur. Using the channel locks to "press" the pin through instead of pounding it with a hammer and punch reduces the risk of damage greatly. Using the same method for the trigger guard also helps to prevent breaking those ears off. Read the tutorials on AR15.com as they cover a lot of tips/tricks that will get you through the process smoothly. I spent a year or 2 researching everything AR related that I could read so by the time I was in a position to build my own, it was very smooth and simple.
 
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Much appreciated! As always NES is the most helpful forums I've ever used! I saw somewhere they said to lube the holes and the pins go in easier? Also, should I be greasing or lubricating any specific parts?
 
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I do not own special tools, nor am I going to buy any. I used tools I already had around the house.

Besides the castle nut wrench tool I bought obviously. I bought a DPMS Armorer's wrench. Solid tool. It's like 10 tools in 1.
So you're saying that except for the one you bought, you used tools you already had. [smile]

Don't worry about it man. I bust everybody's chops... except for the ones I don't.
 

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While perhaps not absolutely necessary, a copy of Kuleck and McKee, The AR-15 Complete Assembly Guide will make the job much less stressful. A number of helpful tips as well as a number of in-process function checks.

There are two common assembly mistakes that bedevil folks, both because they interfere with function and because you will look at the pieces ten times and not notice what is wrong: putting the disconnector spring in upside down (the fat end goes down) and putting the hammer spring on upside down (the legs pass under the hammer pin bosses).
 
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... I do not own special tools, nor am I going to buy any. I used tools I already had around the house.

Besides the castle nut wrench tool I bought obviously. I bought a DPMS Armorer's wrench. ... other than that, I used everyday tools ....
So you're saying that except for the one you bought, you used tools you already had. [smile] ...
Too funny. You beat me to it. I hear you only need an old shovel to make an AK.
 
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i've got an aluminum rod with a hole drilled in it which i can use to put in the front detent spring, pin, and eventually the detent. overall it takes seconds where you usually spend 15 minutes cursing at the thing as it launches the detent across the room.
 
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i've got an aluminum rod with a hole drilled in it which i can use to put in the front detent spring, pin, and eventually the detent. overall it takes seconds where you usually spend 15 minutes cursing at the thing as it launches the detent across the room.
I used a 1/4" hitch pin, which was like 2" long and had a series of cross-drilled holes. Worked flawlessly.
 

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I saw somewhere they said to lube the holes and the pins go in easier?
So many possible inappropriate comments...

Seriously though, I've also found that lubricating the hammer and trigger pins (or holes) help prevent the anodization around the hole from chipping when you are trying to drive in a tight fitting pin.
 
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I'm inappropriate your talking about driving tight fitting pins into holes! Lmfao. Any way to do the detent pin easy with household items? Lol, I have 90% of tools for cars.
 
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I'm inappropriate your talking about driving tight fitting pins into holes! Lmfao. Any way to do the detent pin easy with household items? Lol, I have 90% of tools for cars.
Yep, if you are talking about the front pivot pin, you can use a razor blade to hold the spring and detent compressed while you install the pivot pin, then just slip the blade out to release the detent into the channel on the pivot pin. That method works well, but there is more chance of launching the detent into orbit if you are not careful. The hitch pin is very simple to use and pretty risk free, so it's worth the trip to ACE, or HD.
 

Bankjob

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Ladies....

I used the rear pin rotated to not catch the detent and from the other side. That way you can just slide the pivot pin in.
You can also use the shank of a drill bit. Take a bit that slightly smaller than the pivot pin, push in from the left side, place spring and detent and push in with razor blaze or small screwdriver, slide shank of drill bit over the detent and spring. Then put the pivot pin in from the right side and slowly push out the drill bit. If your ordering a lower parts kit, order a few extra detents, they get launched and lost easily
 
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I got a complete ar build kit minus the lower. I'm planning on buying a stripped lower tommorow or Monday gotta check out shooters outposts stock first of course. Most gun stores sell extra detent pins usually?
 
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So I bought my lower and a " lost parts kit" $13 at Riley's has like 2 of each spring and a ton of little parts 4 or 5 detents etc. 104$ for a rguns nickel boron coated aircraft aluminum. So I'm waiting til Monday wishing I could speed time up for the rest if my new ar to come in via UPS.
 
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