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AR Question

So, all we know is that the buffer tube wasn't in the correct position. Either not installed correctly, or backed out.

I do know I took it as a learning moment. Checked my ARs. The factory ones are staked. I staked the ones I assembled after reading this thread.
i use loctite, but i know what i am doing... and once the stock sits in there - nothing can just rotate and not be noticed.
staking is still the easiest and smartest thing to do there, no doubt. unless it is a MA compliant rifle length round tube. that needs a loctite
 
I don't see the problem???

I never said it was a problem I just said be careful. It can be like a disease maybe. Some people can go overboard and get addicted in which case you then join EBRA (Evil Black Rifles Anonymous). Which can then lead to needing a larger safe as you didn't leave yourself enough expansion room in the first one as the guns in their seemed to magically multiplied over a short time while the door was closed.
 
I never said it was a problem I just said be careful. It can be like a disease maybe. Some people can go overboard and get addicted in which case you then join EBRA (Evil Black Rifles Anonymous). Which can then lead to needing a larger safe as you didn't leave yourself enough expansion room in the first one as the guns in their seemed to magically multiplied over a short time while the door was closed.
ity is a very delicate and difficult process between a balance of available triggers, scopes and lowers. it affects one another and may get out of hand.
my stable balance there now for available spare parts goes as 1 - 2 - 1. :) any deviation from that and a number of completed rifles multiplies.
 
Which can then lead to needing a larger safe as you didn't leave yourself enough expansion room in the first one as the guns in their seemed to magically multiplied over a short time while the door was closed.

I have a big closet, with a sturdy door that I can lock up like a (not really, but kinda sorta) vault. They can be like bunnies, I wouldn't mind... :rolleyes:
 
ity is a very delicate and difficult process between a balance of available triggers, scopes and lowers. it affects one another and may get out of hand.
my stable balance there now for available spare parts goes as 1 - 2 - 1. :) any deviation from that and a number of completed rifles multiplies.

I periodically remember that I have 3 stripped lowers sitting in the safe.
Enough spare parts to build them out, including a couple of Larue triggers.
What I don't have is spare uppers.

And I have that AR-10 80% lower sitting there. That's the one that keeps whispering "build me".
 
I periodically remember that I have 3 stripped lowers sitting in the safe.
Enough spare parts to build them out, including a couple of Larue triggers.
What I don't have is spare uppers.

And I have that AR-10 80% lower sitting there. That's the one that keeps whispering "build me".
my last multiplication event was driven by those - amazing triggers, was an amazing deal, and i regret very much getting only 2.

works fine in both 15 and in 10 on #34 military primers, no issues with strikes, works wonderfully. it says #2.5 pull but if you use tip of the finger at the end of the bow - it is a #1.5. very nice.
 
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I periodically remember that I have 3 stripped lowers sitting in the safe.
Enough spare parts to build them out, including a couple of Larue triggers.
What I don't have is spare uppers.

And I have that AR-10 80% lower sitting there. That's the one that keeps whispering "build me".
Almost sounds like my safe. I have 3 AR 15 80% lowers 2 completed "spare" uppers as well as a 80% 5D tactical .308 lower with everything to complete it and an upper except the BCG (which is supposed to be delivered today) Now when is that next EBRA meeting?
 
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You guys are killing me. I'm going to try to ignore everything I just read so I don't go downstairs and inventory what parts I currently have that could easily be assembled into another rifle if i just spend some money that I really can't afford to spend right now! Darn it... I like putting them together as much as I like shooting them. And still not sure which is more expensive to do.
 
You guys are killing me. I'm going to try to ignore everything I just read so I don't go downstairs and inventory what parts I currently have that could easily be assembled into another rifle if i just spend some money that I really can't afford to spend right now! Darn it... I like putting them together as much as I like shooting them. And still not sure which is more expensive to do.
HA HA HA, it is futile to resist the dark side.

join-the-dark-side-we-have-spare-ar-15-parts.jpg
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Just my .02

If people are having issues with the FCG pins they are using shit products from shit suppliers with components that are not spec or the FCG isn't installed properly.

Loose fitting = not in spec. Damaged = was damaged because its not in spec or not installed properly.

I've shot more 5.56 ammo than probably 99.9% of the people on this forum, I've never seen an issue with those pins in any of my rifles or rifles of the hundreds of Marines and Soldiers I've shot with.

Having been an infantry company armorer for a couple years, I concur. The FCG pins/springs/etc are extremely uncommon failure points. Also extremely uncommon failure points with quality civilian triggers/parts installed properly.
 
Buy a Lottery ticket. I had the detent block and spring go across a processing room. Thankfully it was a flat cement floor and laying on the ground with my face smashed against the concrete, I was able to see the spring.

I wasn't out jacking up people, I was building a gun on the clock. :p
 
So, all we know is that the buffer tube wasn't in the correct position. Either not installed correctly, or backed out.

I do know I took it as a learning moment. Checked my ARs. The factory ones are staked. I staked the ones I assembled after reading this thread.

After this thread, I may go back and stake mine as well. I mangled one build (built it in my lap, the bolt catch/release pin was a cast iron bitch and led to some marring), I just hate purposely making a dent in my work :(.
 
I wanted to test this out, because I was thinking there is no way the stock could rotate enough for this to happen, without it being extremely obvious that the stock had rotated. And what I found on the tube and lower I tested was that the tube required at least one full rotation out before the buffer retainer could come free. Granted, different parts may have different measurements, but I do believe that this particular issue was primarily caused by the tube not being screwed in all of the way. Staking and loctite are also your friend. Again, my preference is the anti-rotation tube that has a notch built in for the retainer so the tube cannot rotate, and thus does not require staking.
 
I wanted to test this out, because I was thinking there is no way the stock could rotate enough for this to happen, without it being extremely obvious that the stock had rotated. And what I found on the tube and lower I tested was that the tube required at least one full rotation out before the buffer retainer could come free. Granted, different parts may have different measurements, but I do believe that this particular issue was primarily caused by the tube not being screwed in all of the way. Staking and loctite are also your friend. Again, my preference is the anti-rotation tube that has a notch built in for the retainer so the tube cannot rotate, and thus does not require staking.
That's the beauty of 'mil spec'. Everything 'should' bolt/fit right in place, pretty much the same on every gun. It's possible to be 'mil spec' and still be pretty exacting, as long as it's exact on the spec as designed. I have thought about getting into some higher end stuff, but I'm afraid once you go high end, you're pretty much stuck with it since 'everything' else might not work well with it. Besides, I don't shoot far enough away to really need better than what my guns shoot. I'm pretty sure my groupings aren't open because I've done everything right and it's the gun's fault.
 
That's the beauty of 'mil spec'. Everything 'should' bolt/fit right in place, pretty much the same on every gun. ...
(You haven't lived until you've made a pot of coffee in your very own ANSI-standard RV.
img_50433_fd72b1b6152e50459dfc31794a68e4e2.jpg

)
 
And I have that AR-10 80% lower sitting there. That's the one that keeps whispering "build me".
Build it and they will come. (Through in this case I have no idea who “they” are.)
If you do build it, you could try one of the more esoteric calibers. You can get barrels, bcg’s and complete uppers for any of the following:
• 22-250 Remington
• 243 Winchester
• 6MM Creedmoor
• 257 Roberts
• 257 Roberts Ackley Improved
• 260 Remington
• 7MM 08 Remington
• 7MM SAUM
• 7MM WSM
• 284 Winchester
• 308 Winchester Match
• 300 Savage
• 300 SAUM

• 300 WSM
• 325 WSM
• 338 Federal
• 358 Winchester
• 450 Marlin

Besides the more common 308 WIN and 6.5 CM.

I’ve done one in 243 Win and am looking into doing one in 450 Marlin (meant to be a modern equivalent to the 45/70). Down side is the ammo is pretty rare. Buffalo Bore has it but it’s $83.32 for a box of 20. That’s over 4 bucks a round!
 
I wanted to test this out, because I was thinking there is no way the stock could rotate enough for this to happen, without it being extremely obvious that the stock had rotated. And what I found on the tube and lower I tested was that the tube required at least one full rotation out before the buffer retainer could come free. Granted, different parts may have different measurements, but I do believe that this particular issue was primarily caused by the tube not being screwed in all of the way. Staking and loctite are also your friend. Again, my preference is the anti-rotation tube that has a notch built in for the retainer so the tube cannot rotate, and thus does not require staking.
There is no reason to loctite a carbine buffer tube. Just stake your castle nut like you're supposed to and it will be g2g.
 
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