AR Polymer80 Versus Forged 80%

xtry51

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@xtry51 All I can figure is there is no anodizing on the holes of an aluminum or ploy 80% so they wear. The hammer spring is worse the culprit.
I think if you used a drop in trigger that's self contained the pins only keep the trigger pack in place so there is no pressure on the springs.

I'm telling you they don't wear. I'm using a RR 2 stage which is not a trigger pack.

If your holes are egging, they were out of spec when you started. The lower I'm using even had an upper DETONATE into tiny pieces and the lower was fine.
 

amm5061

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I can see spending 5 hours to mill it out by hand with a router if you have never done one and actually care about how the inside finish looks. I gave no f***s and milled one out in about an hour and a half with a 1-1/4 HP compact router. To be honest, the finish looked fantastic compared to some of you guys and your drilled lowers.

I tried a P80 lower several years ago intending to turn it into a .22 platform for kicks. The polymer mills like warm butter, but I encountered a real nightmare with the buffer tube threads not being sized correctly. I was unable to screw in a buffer tube no matter how diligently I tried to index the threads. I might at some point try re-tapping the threads, but I don't have the right size tap and I just don't care enough right now.
 

BerettaOrSig

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Bingo, yeah I don't care how long it takes. Just want them to come out nice. I've done a few, but still am in no rush. Especially after I tried to chew off some extra with a pass and snapped all the teeth off my bit.

I bought some chemicals to put a finish on the inside finished product. First results tell me I should not pour the acids into the fcg pocket, it actually does not come out that great if you do so.

I know people have run into issues with things not being shaped correct, though I don't think it was just with Polymer 80. I hadn't even considered that the threads might be incorrect, because they look fine.

My first thought to fix that is to heat up the buffer tube just enough so you can screw the P80 on and it will mold itself to the buffer tube. Sounds good at least.
 
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I can see spending 5 hours to mill it out by hand with a router if you have never done one and actually care about how the inside finish looks. I gave no f***s and milled one out in about an hour and a half with a 1-1/4 HP compact router. To be honest, the finish looked fantastic compared to some of you guys and your drilled lowers.

I tried a P80 lower several years ago intending to turn it into a .22 platform for kicks. The polymer mills like warm butter, but I encountered a real nightmare with the buffer tube threads not being sized correctly. I was unable to screw in a buffer tube no matter how diligently I tried to index the threads. I might at some point try re-tapping the threads, but I don't have the right size tap and I just don't care enough right now.
How long it takes doesn't really matter. No one is manufacturing these to sell to anybody. The important part is how it comes out in the end. For me, it's all about using my tools to the best of my ability and enjoying the process, and ending up with a kickass gun when I'm finished.
You can get a tap for the buffer tube from Brownells. That would easily finish your polymer lower. If it were mine, I would make a tap just by threading a piece of round stock on my lathe, then make a series of flutes on it.
 
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Bingo, yeah I don't care how long it takes. Just want them to come out nice. I've done a few, but still am in no rush. Especially after I tried to chew off some extra with a pass and snapped all the teeth off my bit.

I bought some chemicals to put a finish on the inside finished product. First results tell me I should not pour the acids into the fcg pocket, it actually does not come out that great if you do so.

I know people have run into issues with things not being shaped correct, though I don't think it was just with Polymer 80. I hadn't even considered that the threads might be incorrect, because they look fine.

My first thought to fix that is to heat up the buffer tube just enough so you can screw the P80 on and it will mold itself to the buffer tube. Sounds good at least.
I was in the middle of typing when you replied!
 
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I can see spending 5 hours to mill it out by hand with a router if you have never done one and actually care about how the inside finish looks. I gave no f***s and milled one out in about an hour and a half with a 1-1/4 HP compact router. To be honest, the finish looked fantastic compared to some of you guys and your drilled lowers.

I tried a P80 lower several years ago intending to turn it into a .22 platform for kicks. The polymer mills like warm butter, but I encountered a real nightmare with the buffer tube threads not being sized correctly. I was unable to screw in a buffer tube no matter how diligently I tried to index the threads. I might at some point try re-tapping the threads, but I don't have the right size tap and I just don't care enough right now.
I have seen that same issue on first gen. Didn't know it was still a problem. Absolutely have to re tap the threads.
 
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How long it takes doesn't really matter. No one is manufacturing these to sell to anybody. The important part is how it comes out in the end. For me, it's all about using my tools to the best of my ability and enjoying the process, and ending up with a kickass gun when I'm finished.
You can get a tap for the buffer tube from Brownells. That would easily finish your polymer lower. If it were mine, I would make a tap just by threading a piece of round stock on my lathe, then make a series of flutes on it.
Or a bolt and just cut flutes in it.
 
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