AR Build

[Stoutcat]

A friend asked me to post this for him. Hope I can share some decent answers with him.

Hi,

I'm in the process of building an AR-15 from scratch. So far I only have the basic lower receiver, and would like to buy a kit for the rest. (I've been looking at kits by DPMS, Del-Ton, and Anderson...) But I want to make the build as MODULAR as possible... For example, rather than try to build the trigger group from scratch, I'm planning on using something like the pre-assembled AR-Stoner trigger group. So what other MODULES can I can to simplify things? (I plan on keep spare pares from the kit as spares just in case...) Also, what pitfalls should I be aware of? (Different pin sizes etc...)

Thanks in advance..."

 

[Jarcese]

The trigger group is pretty much the only lower part that comes pre assembled and I wouldnt buy it just to save time, but for quality so he's looking at $150 for a good trigger group. It takes no time at all to assemble a trigger group from a lower parts kit. The only other kit for a lower is maybe a buttstock kit that comes with the right tube and spring. Like an A2 buttstock kit. It will still have to be assembled.

I have 5 parts kits. 2 CMMG, 2 Anderson, and 1 PSA. CMMG parts seem better than the rest and trigger is way better than the other two. For the most part, lower parts are all the same, but some might install easier. Of course you can buy kits without trigger group or buy kits with enhanced triggers.


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[joseph]

My advice would be for your friend or anyone else that wants to build an AR 15 is to watch the many Youtube videos that show you how to do it. I have never built one from the bottom up, but it should not be difficult. I originally bought a Colt LE6920 M4 and then found out that it was not as accurate as I liked. I have been a target shooter for more than 40 years and am spoiled with the accurate rifles I own. The first thing I changed was the stock trigger to a Geissele SSA-E two stage trigger myself. I had never attempted to do this before. I watched Youtube and did the install very easily. The second thing I did was to order an 18" full Varmint upper from White Oak Armament with 1 in 7" twist. The upper cost me $610. You can buy the same barrel which will include the gas block and gas tube for a very competitive price, but it will be a very competitive barrel for competition any where. Mine shoots 10 shot groups less than 1/2" at 100 yards with my reloaded 65 grain Sierra Game Kings and 5 shot groups of 3/8" groups with my 69 grain Match Kings at 100 yards. I use a Bushnell Tactical AR/223 scope with 4.5-18X40mm scope. I can not tell the difference between 3 power and 4.5 power, but there is a big difference between 9 power and 18 power incase you are considering a 3-9X40mm.

Since he will be starting out from scratch why not build a rifle that will be extremely accurate for a "LITTLE" more $$$ then buying an average shooting AR 15. He will never regret doing what I suggest.

https://www.whiteoakarmament.com/shop/barrels/18-varmint-barrels.html

The upper I got comes with a matching bolt and I did pay extra to have them Flute the barrel to save some weight.

https://www.whiteoakarmament.com/varmint-upper-223-5-56-18-barrel-1-7-twist.html

Good luck.

PS: I for got to tell you that mine runs like a sewing machine!!!! AND has never had a hic up.

 

[TomMontana]

If he's looking at "AR-Stoner, DPMS, Del-Ton, and Anderson", then he's not buying a $300 barrel. It's probably more PSA PTAC/Freedom price range. Then the advice is to wait another week for the Memorial Day sales and buy the kits.

 

[weekendracer]

My advice would be for your friend or anyone else that wants to build an AR 15 is to watch the many Youtube videos that show you how to do it. I have never built one from the bottom up, but it should not be difficult. I originally bought a Colt LE6920 M4 and then found out that it was not as accurate as I liked. I have been a target shooter for more than 40 years and am spoiled with the accurate rifles I own. The first thing I changed was the stock trigger to a Geissele SSA-E two stage trigger myself. I had never attempted to do this before. I watched Youtube and did the install very easily. The second thing I did was to order an 18" full Varmint upper from White Oak Armament with 1 in 7" twist. The upper cost me $610. You can buy the same barrel which will include the gas block and gas tube for a very competitive price, but it will be a very competitive barrel for competition any where. Mine shoots 10 shot groups less than 1/2" at 100 yards with my reloaded 65 grain Sierra Game Kings and 5 shot groups of 3/8" groups with my 69 grain Match Kings at 100 yards. I use a Bushnell Tactical AR/223 scope with 4.5-18X40mm scope. I can not tell the difference between 3 power and 4.5 power, but there is a big difference between 9 power and 18 power incase you are considering a 3-9X40mm.

Since he will be starting out from scratch why not build a rifle that will be extremely accurate for a "LITTLE" more $$$ then buying an average shooting AR 15. He will never regret doing what I suggest.

https://www.whiteoakarmament.com/shop/barrels/18-varmint-barrels.html

The upper I got comes with a matching bolt and I did pay extra to have them Flute the barrel to save some weight.

https://www.whiteoakarmament.com/varmint-upper-223-5-56-18-barrel-1-7-twist.html

Good luck.

PS: I for got to tell you that mine runs like a sewing machine!!!! AND has never had a hic up.

There are some tools that will make the lower assembly a LOT easier. Those springs are tiny and as I found out, quite energetic.
The only trouble I had was a spring shooting across a room when the tool slipped. Took a while, but we found it and continued and finished.

 

[mac1911]

There are some tools that will make the lower assembly a LOT easier. Those springs are tiny and as I found out, quite energetic.
The only trouble I had was a spring shooting across a room when the tool slipped. Took a while, but we found it and continued and finished.

no special tools needed..... you can fabricate any "special" tool you think you might need easily.
I cant think of one tool you really need to assemble a lower out side a pair of padded pliers, razor blade a fabricated punch and some tape. Your grip might come with a hex key socket so you might need the correct hex bit?

first thing you need to do is decide on what level and end use you expect from your build and budget. then its easy from there

http://www.ar15.com/guides/files/tutorials/assembly/lower/index.html?gid=183

and here

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/22...--GAS-BLOCK---Step-by-step-instructions-.html

sure there are better tools and special tools that will save you time if you get into building more BUT a lower can be assembled with your basic kitchen draw tools...

 

[7.62x39]

I'm in the process of building an AR-15 from scratch. So far I only have the basic lower receiver, and would like to buy a kit for the rest.

Wait, That's building from scratch? What has he actually built here?

 

[Al-Jim19]

There are some tools that will make the lower assembly a LOT easier. Those springs are tiny and as I found out, quite energetic.
The only trouble I had was a spring shooting across a room when the tool slipped. Took a while, but we found it and continued and finished.

I've done two lowers. I bought a set of punches that came with a brass/nylon hammer and that was plenty. Could have been done with a standard hammer, a long nail, and a little care. Painters/masking tape aids in assembling the bolt catch.

 

[daekken]

Wait, That's building from scratch? What has he actually built here?

Yeah I think the writter letter meant "putting some adult legos together" - an AR isn't really 'built' in all fairness.

I'd love to see someone buy a complete upper and complete lower and pin them together and say--"hey, I built ​that"

 

[Bt74]

Wait, That's building from scratch? What has he actually built here?

Maybe he should use rivets instead of pins?

 

[TheGreekFreak]

Tell him to check out the arf classifieds for parts or even complete lowers/uppers. I bought a BCM lower and planned to "build" the upper as the kmr ones from bcm were too pricey new. By chance, I was browsing the classifieds and stumbled upon a brand new bcm kmr upper with bcg/ch, pre-assembled by bcm, for the price of a cheapo upper. Guy had just posted it so was lucky to jump on it first.

Saved me time, a good chunk of money, and I ended up with the complete rifle I wanted to begin with. People change their minds often and he can build or slap together a really nice AR for less money if he's patient and checks the classifieds.

 

[Dadstoys]

There is one more tiny little trick that will save using every cuss word in the book.
When it comes to installing some of those tiny little springs , find yourself a clear garment bag and do it inside it.
Nothing makes the heart sink faster when doing these jobs than hearing "Ping" and then a "Ting" somewhere on the other side of the room. [sad2]

 

[jayhitek]

I use one of these magnetic little bowls. I think I paid even less at MicroCenter. Maybe $2.
https://www.harborfreight.com/4-inch-magnetic-parts-tray-90566.html

 

[7.62x39]

Maybe he should use rivets instead of pins?

If it was built from scratch then there would not be any 4473 involved. From scratch would technically be from a 0% forging, but starting with even an 80% receiver would still be considered a build.

Starting with a 100% receiver, dropping in a cassette style FCG and pinning on an upper, is a long way from building anything.

 

[TomMontana]

Agreed. From my experience, digging my own ore from the bauxite mine and smelting the metal to build a lower is much more gratifying. It's a true blem chainsaw lower.

 

[klack]

As far as upper assemblies go i've stopped doing my own. GMWILLY at Twin Cities Armament has spoiled me. I have the tools. Been putting em together since 83. Buy an Armoures Manual also for torque specs.

 

[Vagrant]

The first things you should decide is the budget and purpose. You can probably build a cheap plinker for $700 or an expensive precision rifle for over $1.5k. I bought a complete upper for my build, much easier that way. I bought a lower parts kit from Red Barn Armory since you can pick and choose the exact parts you need (I didn't need a cheap trigger that most lpk's include since I already bought a Geissele)

There is one more tiny little trick that will save using every cuss word in the book.
When it comes to installing some of those tiny little springs , find yourself a clear garment bag and do it inside it.
Nothing makes the heart sink faster when doing these jobs than hearing "Ping" and then a "Ting" somewhere on the other side of the room. [sad2]

this x1000. Don't ask me why, but I was putting my lower together in one of my hallways. Bunch of laundry, shelves, and plants around. As one of the tiny springs flew away I just sat there with a blank expression on my face thinking about how much of an idiot I was. After almost 30 min of searching and almost giving up, I luckily found it inside one of the potted plants.

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[7.62x39]

There is one more tiny little trick that will save using every cuss word in the book.
When it comes to installing some of those tiny little springs , find yourself a clear garment bag and do it inside it.
Nothing makes the heart sink faster when doing these jobs than hearing "Ping" and then a "Ting" somewhere on the other side of the room. [sad2]

There is a better method that won't cost you much. A 25¢ clevis pin from the hardware store will perform exactly the same function as this $16 tool from Brownells
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/pin-tools/ar-15-pivot-pin-detent-installation-tool-prod26488.aspx

 

[71montess]

Think about this trigger, closest you can get to full auto.
https://www.righttobear.com/Franklin-Binary-Firing-Trigger-System-III-BFS-G-p/bfsiii.htm