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AR build in MA. Now AR-9!
- Thread starter Soundwave
- Start date
it would be highly unusual for such scope, i would pay a visit to builders first to make sure.
if he would have an another gun with a proven mount in same size - it would be trivial, just to pull out scope from the other zeroed one keeping the mount in, put that new scope in it - and it would be self-evident if it is a scope or not.
with a one gun to play with only - dunno what is the easiest way would be. maxing out elevation at 50yds and still 6 inches under - it is odd.
DarkJoker33
NES Member
Maybe someone returned it after zeroing it and then taking the dials/caps off to reset it to their zero point?
Maybe maxed out due to that
Maybe maxed out due to that
i am not sure what can be happening there, as that thing has 60MOA of elevation in it. can a reticle be knocked down so bad in the trijicon? hmm. probable, but not too possible.
if it gets maxed out at 50yds with still 6 inches down (12 moa) - it is very odd.
i would say, not possible.
unless mount is not sitting in properly in the rail. dunno, too many maybes.
DarkJoker33
NES Member
What I'm saying is some bought it for long range shooting adjusted close to max then took the cap off to put it to their zero.
Example they made a 45moa adjustment so now the scope is zero at 45 moa vs a proper zero from factory
Example they made a 45moa adjustment so now the scope is zero at 45 moa vs a proper zero from factory
DarkJoker33
NES Member
I mean it can't hurt to see can it?
Bring everything to zero pop off the caps and see if it will go any further?
Bring everything to zero pop off the caps and see if it will go any further?
DarthRevan
NES Member
Getting closer… f***ing flier. 100yd, seated at bench with sling, bipod, small rear bag.
That really shouldn't be happening. Figure out why that is before troubleshooting further.
Could you verify the specification for the scope tube and the mount? E.g. 34mm scope tube, 34mm mount. Have the part numbers?
Are you near-by to Harvard, MA? I can assist you with a different scope/mount combination and/or a boresight laser.
Soundwave
NES Member
Trijicon Tenmile HX 3-18x 30mm with the aero precision 30mm mount.
Thanks. Yeah, if it's torque'd to the mount specifications, you shouldn't see any movement from the scope itself. Was the movement greater than the width of a Picatinny slot?
(Still would not explain the 30+ minutes of elevation)
Soundwave
NES Member
From the scratches I would say yes. After I tightened it no. The margin for error on torque limiting screw driver was 2 so I bumped it up a little and re-tightened everything. I should have got to the range yesterday but had a killer migraine.
you need no range with that sort of a deviation. take upper off, put it on a kitchen table on a wooden board with bolt out, point through the open door at anything - any shiny enough object about 40-50yds away.
look through the barrel and then through the scope. make sure to remove all zero stop previous setups, and then play with elevation to bring scope to the proper point. if you are still 20-30 moa off, at shorter distance it should be obvious.
even better - look at the manual, and release all the zero stop first, however it is done there. then turn elevation knob to the minimum - usually it is done by clockwise rotation, to bring it down.
then look at that object, and start bringing it up, and count how many rotations it would take.
check visually if the axis of the scope is aligned with the barrel. again, a 30-40MOA misalignment would be highly visible.
and a totally idiotic - but not unheard of issue - check if damn rings are indeed identical and are of the same height. literally measure from upper rail to top of the mount - may be it got bended.
Soundwave
NES Member
Finally ordered a laser bore sight. I had to max elevation adjustment to even get it close and then almost max windage. In my basement 20 yds it's centered but low. Not sure how that will play out at 100-400yds etc. Next I'm going to check those zero stops and try and figure out why it started so low and left.
i seriously advice you to get to your builders so they could verify if the mount is not damaged - i presume you got no friends who would have spare scope mounts?
when you say 'max' - was it a clockwise rotation or counterclockwise? to 'max' usually means counterclockwise. clockwise brings it to the bottom.
open a case with a scope seller as well just in case.
Soundwave
NES Member
Both turrets had to be turned counter-clockwise significantly. It seems there is a little more elevation so I got it lining up short range now. I'll try and make it to range next week with it. It looks like it's reading "5" for elevation but I swear I turned that thing completely more than once.
DarthRevan
NES Member
You're having way more issues with that out of the box than you should be.
Took rather forever to finish, but now it’s done. 8lb3oz without scope. Could be lighter, but, for now it will do.
a faxon 16" 6.5CM barrel - 2lb. VG6 Precision EPSILON 65 brake. brake is pre-drilled from aero, if it will shoot well i will touch barrel there with cobalt bit and seal it with a pin/solder
aero lower with stock - 2lb10oz. daniel defense grip, triggertech flat trigger.
upper with barrel - 4.5lb
aero phosphate bolt - 1.65lb
does not add up, well, who cares. when i weighted it up assembled it came to 8.2-8.3.
also went there with an aero m5 non-enhanced upper/handguard that uses a special aero made nut - it was a bit of a mistake, as the assembly turned into more pita than needed.
it uses this special nut, sold separately, that needs to be set with shims at 70lb/ft torque, to be rotated for those grooves to be exactly where the gas tube needs to sneak into the upper.
doable of course, but, i forgot by now the last time i had to deal with such shit. meh.
on a classic nut you just torque it as is then then dremel obstructing shit out. here you have to get into the actual correct groove, and it snapped my torque wrench in the process.
now need to fix that as well.
but the result is worth it, will have that PA 3-16 scope on it for now. if barrel will turn out to be a good sub-moa i may get a lighter hunting scope there.
a faxon 16" 6.5CM barrel - 2lb. VG6 Precision EPSILON 65 brake. brake is pre-drilled from aero, if it will shoot well i will touch barrel there with cobalt bit and seal it with a pin/solder
aero lower with stock - 2lb10oz. daniel defense grip, triggertech flat trigger.
upper with barrel - 4.5lb
aero phosphate bolt - 1.65lb
does not add up, well, who cares. when i weighted it up assembled it came to 8.2-8.3.
also went there with an aero m5 non-enhanced upper/handguard that uses a special aero made nut - it was a bit of a mistake, as the assembly turned into more pita than needed.
it uses this special nut, sold separately, that needs to be set with shims at 70lb/ft torque, to be rotated for those grooves to be exactly where the gas tube needs to sneak into the upper.
doable of course, but, i forgot by now the last time i had to deal with such shit. meh.
on a classic nut you just torque it as is then then dremel obstructing shit out. here you have to get into the actual correct groove, and it snapped my torque wrench in the process.
now need to fix that as well.but the result is worth it, will have that PA 3-16 scope on it for now. if barrel will turn out to be a good sub-moa i may get a lighter hunting scope there.
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Here it is compared the ruger sfar. Latter is about a pound lighter
Difficult to say, I like ruger too but beefier aero handguard makes it much nicer to grab and weight distribution of ruger is still odd to me.
Need to take both to shoot again now. I expect ar10 to be way less kicky than ruger as well. Will see.
Difficult to say, I like ruger too but beefier aero handguard makes it much nicer to grab and weight distribution of ruger is still odd to me.
Need to take both to shoot again now. I expect ar10 to be way less kicky than ruger as well. Will see.
Soundwave
NES Member
I should have gone with that Aero muzzle brake. I was overloaded with info and went with the lantac dragon. Also hows that Ruger charging handle? It seems so far forward. Does it affect optic placement?
dude, after building a 9th of this shit - i can tell you - you`ve got no problem!
get one now, as they are still on black friday sales.just build an another one.
I for now need to figure out what to get rid of, as it does not fit well into the safe no more and i expect 2 more rem 700 chassis to come.need to offload something, but i like all i got and do not want to sell nothing, so, it poses a certain problem.
speaking of brakes, i still do love lambda prs better, i think. will see how this epsilon will compare to it. install of epsilon is to press it on a crusher washer - not too great.
but, WAY cheaper, of course.
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this was quite a budget build. handguard was a $105 from brownells.
complete upper, bolt, handle was from arm and ally sale - $99 + 144.65 +$20.25, tax/shipping - $277 total.
brake was also from them - $53 shipped
hmm, email says and barrel was from the same sale - $196 shipped. looks like i could not make up my mind of where to buy it from.
nut was then needed and the new tool, grr - $40 plus $24.
so a total for all except lower/trigger is slight under $700. ok. i somehow before got to under 500, forgot the barrel. well, it could have been done cheaper, i guess, if i'd waited for better sale.
lower i had acquired a long time ago, it was also from some sale. all in all - not too bad. i have now triple redundancy on my ar10s.
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DarkJoker33
NES Member
That is a cheap build. Damn
Sorry missed your question there about ruger handle. It is, well, small. I have no issues with it, though. It is not really that forward nor does it affect anything but I may in time swap it out for the one with larger wings.
… - it was a bit of a mistake, as the assembly turned into more pita than needed.
it uses this special nut, sold separately, that needs to be set with shims at 70lb/ft torque, to be rotated for those grooves to be exactly where the gas tube needs to sneak into the upper.
doable of course, but, i forgot by now the last time i had to deal with such shit. meh.
on a classic nut you just torque it as is then then dremel obstructing shit out. here you have to get into the actual correct groove, and it snapped my torque wrench in the process.
Timing barrel nuts sucks.
DarkJoker33
NES Member
Did you ever figure this out?
Soundwave
NES Member
Have had zero time to get to th range with family stuff and weather. I got it on target with a laser bore sight in my basement but I think I'm at 5 for elevation? Hoping to get to range Friday and Sunday.
