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Ar 15

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I'm a hand gun guy but have been thing of getting into some rifles don't think I have a need for one. But if I do I would like to know more do all lowers and uppers work together or does it have to be the same brand.and how about stocks and barrels need some info. Thanks ed
 
The Founding Fathers believed you do have a need for a rifle as good or better than whatever our government , and our enemies own.

They're basically standardized. Someone else can chime in with old Colt weirdness
 
Having been in your situation a couple of years ago, I recommend that you buy something off the shelf, shoot it a lot, take it apart a lot, clean it a lot, put it back together a lot, and take it to a lot of training classes. Then you will understand the goods and not-so-goods about your rifle, from your own perspective rather than somebody on the internet. Then you can either sell your base model (or keep it as a backup) and make an informed decision about buying a higher end rifle or building your own. I started with a Stag Model 8. It's still going strong but since then I've built one for my wife, started building another, and have a Spike's on order. It's not about what to buy, it's about learning. And yes, you do need a rifle or seven. [grin]
 
if you have the time, space, money, and inclination. building is a blast. They really are legos for adults. but if you have no experience with the rifle platform, maybe buying one is a better choice.
 
if you have the time, space, money, and inclination. building is a blast. They really are legos for adults. but if you have no experience with the rifle platform, maybe buying one is a better choice.

Or make friends with some one who's built at least one. See of you can shoot different types. Figure out what you like . What you don't like.

I built my first and working on a second .
Now I'm helping my brother build one.
You can allmost never buy one with all the parts you want/like . And if you find it most likely you'll still be able to build it for less.
 
I built my own. "Built" being subjective...

I started with a stripped lower from an NES group buy. To that I added a sweet trigger (Geissele - pronounced "Guys-Lee" - SSA two-stage non-adjustable), and a DPMS Lower Parts Kit (LPK) which includes all the pins, springs, safety and mag releases, etc.... I used a basic A2 buttstock which can always be changed out later, but since I live in the PRM and adjustability is evil, I stuck to the basics for now. There are many how-to guides and videos on the Internet to help with assembly. I took an hour to do mine, and that's only because I was taking my time and being super careful.

To that, I added a 'complete upper' receiver, which came from Rock River with a sweet chromed bolt carrier group, a stainless barrel, etc. The upper connects to the lower with two pins that were included in the LPK.

I think this was a good way to go. By getting the upper already completed, I didn't need any special tools. Yet I was still able to pick and choose the features that I wanted and still participated in the building process. I learned a lot and had fun too.

Lots of companies make and sell complete uppers. You might start with an inexpensive Del-Ton, and either upgrade or replace it as you refine your wants and/or needs.
 
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How do you like the Geissele? I think that is on my list before end of year for one or two of my setups.

2012-07-20_five_shot_superformance.jpg best_5shot_group_55Zmax100yd.jpg

I love it! I really don't have much to compare it to, but I think it's pretty sweet. 4.5 lbs take-up, then a crisp 2.5 lb trigger pull. Very smooth.

See above 100 yard groups from my AR w/ good Hornady ammo. My upper is a RRA Predator Pursuit 20" SS barrel 1:8 twist, target crown. .223 Wylde chamber.
 
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I'm a hand gun guy but have been thing of getting into some rifles don't think I have a need for one. But if I do I would like to know more do all lowers and uppers work together or does it have to be the same brand.and how about stocks and barrels need some info. Thanks ed


You DO need a rifle! Everyone does. The old saying goes " a handgun is what you use to fight your way to your rifle, which you should not have left behind in the first place!" or the story about the woman who notice that the Texas Ranger was carrying a side arm and asked " Are you expecting trouble?" to which he replied " No Ma'am, if I was expecting trouble I would have brought my rifle."

Handguns are great, but if things really go sideways, I want a rifle.

There are lots of affordable, decent quality, off the shelf AR-15's on the market. S&W, Windham Weaponry and Stag come to mind
 
I think if you're going to do "base model" for plinking (shooting steel or reactive targets, etc.) inside 200 yards you may as well buy an off-the-shelf rifle. You won't really save any money versus buying components and rolling your own. Or buy someone else's regret, and let them take depreciation on post-Newtown madness since back to almost normalcy.

Then you can change it as you desire -- change the trigger, grip, buttstock, and maybe the hand guard to suit your shooting wants and needs.

I looked at all the options out there, did my research, and found that I wanted a highly accurate target/predator hunting rifle. Others may want something more "tacticool" with lots of rail space, back-up iron sites, lights, lasers, etc. Others just want the base model, or one that looks and feels like what they lumped through the deserts of Iraq or with a carry handle as in Viet Nam. Do you want a flat-top upper (A3) with an optic?

By building mine the way I wanted it in the first place, I didn't have any take-off parts. But my rifle isn't exactly a basic model (IMHO). I selected exactly what I wanted, and the *only* take-off part left over was the plastic handgrip (I used an Ergo instead) and the flat-bottom of the trigger guard (I got a 'winter' trigger guard).

I spent a little more up-front to get to my desired end result sooner, versus buying a base model and 'upgrading' it & ending up with a box of take-off parts.

If I'd have wanted the basic model, I would have just bought the M&P Sport, Delton, Windham, etc. and been done with it.

It all really boils down to what do you want to DO with it? Then you balance what is the expected level of quality, refinement, accuracy, weight, rail space, barrel material (chromed or not), barrel length, DGI vs piston-driven, whether or not you want it threaded for a brake, which adjustable buttstock, the COLOR, etc. all come into play.

It's a fun learning experience. I read a LOT on the Internet, bought AR buyer's guides at the Wal*Mart magazine rack, etc. before spending anything.
 
Watch some YouTube and start build. It's no rocket science. First time might take you 4 hours, next one you prolly can do it in 2.
 
I think if you're going to do "base model" for plinking (shooting steel or reactive targets, etc.) inside 200 yards you may as well buy an off-the-shelf rifle. You won't really save any money buying components and rolling your own at that price point without really shopping the sales and bargain bins (and paying shipping on all that stuff). Or, buy someone else's regret, and let them take depreciation on post-Newtown madness since back to almost normalcy.

Then you can change it as you desire -- change the trigger, grip, buttstock, and maybe the hand guard to suit your shooting wants and needs.

I looked at all the options out there, did my research, and found that I wanted a highly accurate target/predator hunting rifle. Others may want something more "tacticool" with lots of rail space, back-up iron sites, lights, lasers, etc. Others just want the base model, or one that looks and feels like what they lumped through the deserts of Iraq or with a carry handle as in Viet Nam. Do you want a flat-top upper (A3) with an optic?

By building mine the way I wanted it in the first place, I didn't have any take-off parts. But my rifle isn't exactly a basic model (IMHO). I selected exactly what I wanted, and the *only* take-off part left over was the plastic handgrip (I used an Ergo instead) and the flat-bottom of the trigger guard (I got a 'winter' trigger guard).

I spent a little more up-front to get to my desired end result sooner, versus buying a base model and 'upgrading' it & ending up with a box of take-off parts.

If I'd have wanted the basic model, I would have just bought the M&P Sport, Delton, Windham, etc. and been done with it.

It all really boils down to what do you want to DO with it? Then you balance what is the expected level of quality, refinement, accuracy, weight, rail space, barrel material (chromed or not), barrel length, DGI vs piston-driven, whether or not you want it threaded for a brake, which adjustable buttstock, the COLOR, etc. all come into play.

It's a fun learning experience. I read a LOT on the Internet, bought AR buyer's guides at the Wal*Mart magazine rack, etc. before spending anything.
 
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