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AR-15 Extraction issue

lemonlime571

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Every round that is fired, casing is jammed in the barrel. Feeds and extracts live ammo no prob. Just spent brass that gets stuck. Tried three different types of ammo and same problem with all. Leads me to believe its the barrel. Anything I can do to loosen it up of make it not jam. A thorough cleaning didn't work.
 
the extractor is brand new.
Betcha got a real good deal on the Wolf ammo, eh?

I was using federal, wolf and winchester. All three jammed. My other AR feeds all three without issues. Could it be the barrel is a hair too tight?
I just don't want to have to buy a new one unless it is unfixable.
 
Try switching the bolts and seeing if it still does that. Could be a weak extractor. Also, check the brass after you get it out, see if it's visibly marred anywhere.
 
It sounds like an extractor issue. Is there any play in the extractor? When you have to remove the casing from the barrel how do you do it? Do you have to use any force to do so?
 
I had a similar problem with a brand new DPMS super bull barrel. The gun was OK for 20 to 30 rounds and then the rounds woud stick in the chamber. A new extractor and spring failed to cure the problem. Turned out to be a rough chamber; some serious polishing was the cure. This was the first of two DPMS barrels with reliability problems due to a rough chamber (the second was a 22 LR conversion). I am not a big fan of DPMS barrels.
 
DPMS is building at least some notoriety for improperly cut chambers....I would also check your carrier key and your buffer.

PS: I like the suggestion about dropping your BCG from your functioning AR into this one - will eliminate some possibilities.
 
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how do I go about polishing the chamber?

You start by cleaning the chamber' squeaky clean. Then you have to make up a rod or dowel to hold the sand paper to polish with. I use a wooden dowel slightly smaller than chamber diameter. Cut a slit in one end to hold the sand paper. Cut strips of sand paper ( I use 1/2 inch wide strips) to fit the cut in the dowel that are just long enough to fit in the chamber when wrapped around the dowel (after being placed in the cut in the dowel. Place the other end of the dowel in the chuck of an electric drill and polish, moving the sand paper up and down in the chamber.

I start with 220 grit and move on to 300, 400 and 600. I then use an over sized bore mop covered with jeweler's rouge and connected to the drill for the next step. Final polishing is done with JB bore paste on the same bore mop. You now have to clean the entire barrel "squeaky clean" as you can't leave ANY of this abrasive material in the barrel as it will damage the bore when the rifle is fired. I know this is a PITA but it worked for me.
 
Your best bet is to find a smith in your area and have them use a 556 chamber reamer. Dont waste your time with trying to do it yourself, it most likely will not work or you could damage your chamber and be screwed. Your best move is to get rid of anything DPMS, they make nothing but garbage!

Where are you located. I might be able to set you up with a very reliable smith!

-DM-
 
I'll be going back to the range this thurs to try out the other bolt and take out some of the possibilities. Anyone know of a local smith in the plymouth area that won't charge me more than the cost of a new barrel?
 
Your best bet is to find a smith in your area and have them use a 556 chamber reamer. Dont waste your time with trying to do it yourself, it most likely will not work or you could damage your chamber and be screwed. Your best move is to get rid of anything DPMS, they make nothing but garbage!

Where are you located. I might be able to set you up with a very reliable smith!

-DM-

Using a chamber reamer can change the head space. The sand paper method is much less likely to damage the barrel.
 
Same problem occurred with both bolts. must be the barrel. Anyone know of a smith or where I can acquire the tools to do this myself. I don't want to have to buy a new barrel but will if it is cheaper than fixing the problem.
 
I'm having a similar issue with my DPMS upper.[frown] Trying out some new reloads Sunday and today, which were all range brass reloads, I had a few where the extractor simply didn't engage the rim of the case. No matter how many times I tried to use the charging handle, it simply wouldn't reach the rim. I had to clear these rounds (3 out of 50 rounds) with a cleaning rod down the bore. The brass needed just a very light tap to come out, so I don't think it was a chamber issue. FWIW, the rifle hasn't been cleaned for maybe 500 rounds of mostly reloads and some Privy Partizan. But hell -- an M16 in full auto is going to probably go through alot more than that before it sees a cleaning, right?

I cleaned the hell out of it and will try it tomorrow. So far, I'm still looking at my SKS as my primary long gun if TSHTF. It hasn't seen a cleaning in about 1K rounds, and nary a hiccup.
 
I'm no elitist - not by a long shot, but I have been doing a ton of reading on AR-15's. I had a Colt HBAR which had and still has with it's new owner - zero issues. Once upon a time, I was looking into a DPMS AR-15 to re-satisfy my itch for an AR-15. DPMS appears to be falling into an increasingly deeper pit of manufacturers who were once building high-quality rifles, but now appear to be slipping. Manufactures like DPMS, Rock River Arms, Bushmaster, CMMG etc, were once heralded as making high quality firearms, but it's becoming increasingly apparent that quality control issues are increasing along with customer complaints. As I stated in my earlier post, DPMS is gaining notoriety as the improper cutter of chambers.

If swapping out bolt carriers did not resolve the issue, then you're left with a few other options - among them an improperly cut chamber. You may also want to check your upper for signs the carrier is hanging up on the rails, (look for burrs or flaws in the receiver). Look also at your M4 cuts, (if you have them). It is my understanding that DPMS may be improperly, or shoddily cutting their ramps and properly staking the carrier key seems to be a simple procedure which is lost on DPMS - so check your ramps and carrier key. Lastly, check your buffer and spring - it's possible that there is not enough energy at the buffer tube to properly function your rifle.

There is also one other issue with DPMS - they lie, or at the very least, twist information to make themselves look favorable - rather than actually improving/changing their manufacturing practices. Over on M4C, a member put together a now infamous "chart" of features found on most popular M4s. One could call it an elitists guide to buying Colt or Noveske, but in reality it points out the good, bad and missing in the manufacturing of AR-15's. DPMS took this information, twisted it and then posted their own "version" over on AR-15.com...[thinking] Rather than look in the mirror and improve their manufacturing standards, (or lack), DPMS appears to be on a mission of deception.

Personally, short of sending your rifle back to DPMS and demand it be made right, I would scrap it and move on. I know it's a tough pill to swallow, but one shouldn't have to invest in a new upper or rifle - only to turn around and have it tweaked or rebuilt to specs it should have been manufactured to in the first place....
Your life may one day depend on the equipment you have and it's becoming increasingly apparent that companies like DPMS, RRA, Bushmaster etc are putting profits over people....

PS: Here's a link to "The Chart"...Rather than post a cut-n-paste of it, I've sent the entire link - it's good reading and may be an eye-opener. After you're done reading it, go to AR15.com and check the company made DPMS chart...

http://www.m4carbine.net/showthread.php?t=6642
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