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AR-15 Build parts list

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I think I'm ready for my first AR-15 build, so I thought I'd put my parts list here for collective review. I'd prefer to have everything I need before I start, so I'm hoping for input on whether I've got all the components I'll need to complete the rifle. Thanks in advance. AR15 Build.jpg
 
I don't see a delta ring or weld spring listed, unless they cam as part of a kit... Oh and is that $150 barrel nut made of gold or something?
He's got a free float handguard listed, no delta ring or weld spring required. Also, he's not listing the barrel nut at $150, it looks like he's grouped together the handguard, nut and panel kit. Maybe they all come together.

OP, your list looks complete to me. Don't forget you'll need the tools to assemble it. I think MI includes a barrel nut tool, but an upper receiver vice block will come in handy when you tightening that nut down.
 
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I would suggest you purchase this package from Palmetto State Armory:

http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/catalog/product/view/id/1718/category/388/

It will include your lower parts kit, fde moe pistol grip, fde trigger guard, fde ctr stock (upgrade from your moe), and the buffer tube assembly.

Total price would be $159.99 from Palmetto State Armory rather than ~$250 for all that in your parts list, and would include the CTR stock rather than the MOE ($20 upgrade).

People have complained about the long wait times but their parts kit dont take half as long as complete uppers to ship. Last order placed with them took 6 days from day I placed my order.

You could save some money purchasing the build kit in the attached link. All quality parts included.

You could put the ~$100 savings purchaseing the above build kit and upgrade your Magpul mbus backups to Magpul MBUS Pro backups (steel, sweet low profile) if you purchase the deal in the link below. You would still be saving ~$60 and have upgraded MBUS Pro sights.

http://palmettostatearmory.com/inde...ro-backup-sight-set-rear-mag276-front-mag275/

Decisions decisions...
 
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Tfuzz, I already have all of the stuff, but thanks for the recommendation. Almostelmo is correct on the MI stuff ...

Gonna start acquiring the tools I'll need next, I'll post that list for feedback when I think it's complete. It'd be nice if I can find a kit, or even better, if there's a place to rent everything for a week or so (probably not going to build alot of these, but who knows).
 
ok so first thing is first. get a fourrunner combo wrench for your first ar tool. it will outlast any ar you every build that is how strong that thing is. worth the ~$40 in my honest opinion.
http://www.northeastshooters.com/vb...0-ONGOING-Group-Buy-AR15-308-Armorer-s-Wrench
you can get the ar15 vise blocks from anywhere fairly cheap. these are the ones I have
http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/product/82739

you will need a torque wrench for the barrel nut.

you should also get a nice set of roll pin punches, some vise grips, needle nose, and some jewelers files. will also need a hammer. I had a few different kinds just kicking around. if you are afraid of scratching the finish, some electrical tape or masking tape will help you protect your finish. harbor freight is a good source for these things. don't need to be super heavy duty for this. if you are going to do any polishing of the internals then I would recommend doing it before assembly. you will need a bench vise also

instead of roll pin punches, I used center punches as they have the point that can fit into the center of the roll pin to help prevent it from slipping. on these I would not recommend harbor freight unless you are going to redo the point on them. you can also just buy a set of ar15 punches.

if you have a bench vise, you can get the tools needed for your assembly for roughly $100-$150 maybe even less. any questions, just ask. the people on this thread are great and very helpful. you can look up a lot of youtube videos for assembly on all your parts. many good videos on there

if you do not have a bench vise or torque wrench, you are welcome to come by and use mines. only need the vise to torque down the barrel nut.
 
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Dont forget tools such as roll pin punches, a vice (I would advise a vice block for the upper), Ar armorers wrench. $82 for the LPK is very steep unless it comes with some sort of upgraded trigger.

Oh and you cant forget about the headspace gauges.

Dont forget to fill out the FA10....... or not.[laugh]
 
Dont forget tools such as roll pin punches, a vice (I would advise a vice block for the upper), Ar armorers wrench. $82 for the LPK is very steep unless it comes with some sort of upgraded trigger.

Oh and you cant forget about the headspace gauges.

Dont forget to fill out the FA10....... or not.[laugh]

I didn't buy the gauges. I took my rifle to 1776 gunsmithing and had them do a headspace check, pin and weld the muzzle, do a safety check, and test fire it all. it was very cheap. under $100. call me paranoid but it was my first build so I wanted to make sure it was right. next time, when the money is right for another build, I will be getting the gauges
 
I didn't buy the gauges. I took my rifle to 1776 gunsmithing and had them do a headspace check, pin and weld the muzzle, do a safety check, and test fire it all. it was very cheap. under $100. call me paranoid but it was my first build so I wanted to make sure it was right. next time, when the money is right for another build, I will be getting the gauges

all you need is a set of go/no go gauges. they are like $60 and you can use them until you die.
 
all you need is a set of go/no go gauges. they are like $60 and you can use them until you die.

yea I will be buying one for the next build. I plan on it being an sbr. I did do a lot of research on them but still decided to have a pro completely look over my first build. now that I know that I did it all correctly, I will buy the gauges for my next build. my next step would be to learn to pin and weld a muzzle and reanodize over the weld. either that or try soldering one on.

but back to the op. post where you are from. I will be willing to bet that there is a member not to far from you that will be willing to lend you their tools even if you have to do it at their place. many will even be willing to watch you putting it together to make sure you are doing things correctly if you are afraid of that. not much you can screw up on one though. like I said, youtube has plenty of build videos. with minimal tools, you can build your ar. oh and don't forget, if you don't post pics, it didn't happen
 
Dont forget tools such as roll pin punches, a vice (I would advise a vice block for the upper), Ar armorers wrench. $82 for the LPK is very steep unless it comes with some sort of upgraded trigger.

Oh and you cant forget about the headspace gauges.

Dont forget to fill out the FA10....... or not.[laugh]

i built mine without the gauges and the thing runs like a top! am i lucky or dumb and lucky?
 
maybe a little of both. lol jk. I have read in lots of threads if you buy quality parts then you will more than likely not need to check headspace as quality manufactures are within specs. how accurate is this? I have no clue but my life is more valuable than the $60 to $100 you will spend on a set of gauges.
i built mine without the gauges and the thing runs like a top! am i lucky or dumb and lucky?
 
I didn't buy the gauges. I took my rifle to 1776 gunsmithing and had them do a headspace check, pin and weld the muzzle, do a safety check, and test fire it all. it was very cheap. under $100. call me paranoid but it was my first build so I wanted to make sure it was right. next time, when the money is right for another build, I will be getting the gauges

i just "pulled and prayed" thankfully, i chose all the right parts[grin]
 
yea I will be buying one for the next build. I plan on it being an sbr. I did do a lot of research on them but still decided to have a pro completely look over my first build. now that I know that I did it all correctly, I will buy the gauges for my next build. my next step would be to learn to pin and weld a muzzle and reanodize over the weld. either that or try soldering one on.

but back to the op. post where you are from. I will be willing to bet that there is a member not to far from you that will be willing to lend you their tools even if you have to do it at their place. many will even be willing to watch you putting it together to make sure you are doing things correctly if you are afraid of that. not much you can screw up on one though. like I said, youtube has plenty of build videos. with minimal tools, you can build your ar. oh and don't forget, if you don't post pics, it didn't happen
If you have the gauge,I can help with the drill,pin and weld!
 
If you have the gauge,I can help with the drill,pin and weld!

I do not have the gauges yet. money is currently tight as my fiancé is going into the nursing program and its pricey. for my next build I will be buying the gauges. i do have a drill press and a welder so i think i might be able to easily to it. the part im worried about more is mainly the reanodizing where the weld is. if the op is anywhere near 1776 gunsmithing and needs any of this done, i would highly recommend them. they do awesome work.
 
I do not have the gauges yet. money is currently tight as my fiancé is going into the nursing program and its pricey. for my next build I will be buying the gauges. i do have a drill press and a welder so i think i might be able to easily to it. the part im worried about more is mainly the reanodizing where the weld is. if the op is anywhere near 1776 gunsmithing and needs any of this done, i would highly recommend them. they do awesome work.
Did a search of 1776 and it looks like a good operation,just bit far for me to go. Anodizing...not sure what material you are working with.After I drill and pin it,I weld the pin with my TIG and end up with a small spot that cold bluing covers.Currently in the process of doing my next build and will be pinning a YHM 26 on it.
 
i built mine without the gauges and the thing runs like a top! am i lucky or dumb and lucky?

only time I would say you are ok to just shoot it is if you buy a complete upper. when your matching up different manufactured parts Id want to make sure they fit properly.

after spending $800+ apparently spending $60 on gauges (or just asking someone to borrow some) to check your firearm for your safety and the safety of others around you at the range is too much to ask. Why risk it?!
 
Im not sure where you are but I have go and nogo guages.....be glad to check for you if we can meet up.
 
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I do not have the gauges yet. money is currently tight as my fiancé is going into the nursing program and its pricey. for my next build I will be buying the gauges. i do have a drill press and a welder so i think i might be able to easily to it. the part im worried about more is mainly the reanodizing where the weld is. if the op is anywhere near 1776 gunsmithing and needs any of this done, i would highly recommend them. they do awesome work.

is your brake anodized? I have a lantac dragon, cold blue took care of the weld, it doesn't look amazing but that's because I can't weld worth shit. If you can weld well so you can keep the weld dot tiny, you'd probably be okay with cold blue too.
 
Thanks for the replies folks. For those that asked about location, I split my time between Dracut and Groton. I'm not sure yet where I'll do the build. Still figuring whether I'll buy or borrow tools, once I know how much it'll cost. I don't mind buying the actual tools, but would prefer not to have to buy the vise blocks, as I'm likely not going to build another one (famous last words). My plan is to have whatever shop I choose to pin and weld the muzzle device do a quick check on the build and measure headspace. As for the comments on the price of some of the parts, I started ordering stuff 1+ years ago, prices were different then. I have 2 sons in college, and just paid for a divorce, so it's taken me a while to get ready to start.
 
Does he have to drive to Provincetown? Fun place, but goddamn is that a long drive to just stay in MA ;)
P-Town is the end of the highway and I try to stay away from there. I'm retired and spend time at both ends of the state.On the Cape in Yarmouthport,not far from the Bass River Rod & Gun Club.My old shop is at the other end of the state in Western Ma.
 
o. I will have to learn the difference. im not sure. is there any way to know the difference
is your brake anodized? I have a lantac dragon, cold blue took care of the weld, it doesn't look amazing but that's because I can't weld worth shit. If you can weld well so you can keep the weld dot tiny, you'd probably be okay with cold blue too.
 
Thanks for the replies folks. For those that asked about location, I split my time between Dracut and Groton. I'm not sure yet where I'll do the build. Still figuring whether I'll buy or borrow tools, once I know how much it'll cost. I don't mind buying the actual tools, but would prefer not to have to buy the vise blocks, as I'm likely not going to build another one (famous last words). My plan is to have whatever shop I choose to pin and weld the muzzle device do a quick check on the build and measure headspace. As for the comments on the price of some of the parts, I started ordering stuff 1+ years ago, prices were different then. I have 2 sons in college, and just paid for a divorce, so it's taken me a while to get ready to start.
Hope you enjoy your new build.We are in different corners of the state,but if there's anything I can do to help,pm me.
 
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