Anyone loading rainier bullets

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I been loading 38 spec with these they work great! Now the problem I have is switch to different cals 380 auto 9mm 40 s&w and 45 auto. I have 3 books lyman 47th and lyman pistol and revolver. Also the one that dillon sells for each caliber. In these cant find info to load these in any of them. Rainier says use lead loading recipes on the website. But the books have no weight matches for 40 S&W rob
 
I been loading 38 spec with these they work great! Now the problem I have is switch to different cals 380 auto 9mm 40 s&w and 45 auto. I have 3 books lyman 47th and lyman pistol and revolver. Also the one that dillon sells for each caliber. In these cant find info to load these in any of them. Rainier says use lead loading recipes on the website. But the books have no weight matches for 40 S&W rob

What bullet weight?
 
Robshil: I've used Rainier plated bullets with no problems for 38 Spec. (125 G FP), 40 cal (180 G FP) and 45 ACP (230 G RN). I load the 38 up to about 1,000 fps, keep the 40 below 1,200 fps and load the 45 ACP to near max ( 6.0 G Unique)...I think the key with these bullets is to keep the velocity below about 1,200 FPS. Accordingly, I only use Hornady XTPs for my 10MM, 45 Win Mag, 357 Mag. rounds. Ive had to guess on OAL length, but common sense has worked so far....Best..
 
I used to use Raniers, but found the poly-coated bullets easier to get and less expensive. As noted, keep velocities down and be careful with your crimps, if any.
 
I found Rainer's 180gr 40s to have poor accuracy when trying to reach higher power factors (165+) - especially with the RNFP bullet.

However, their 155 gr bullet on top of 4.5 grains of 231 make a nice steel plate load that is fairly accurate. As Scriv said do not over crimp.
 
I found Rainer's 180gr 40s to have poor accuracy when trying to reach higher power factors (165+) - especially with the RNFP bullet.

However, their 155 gr bullet on top of 4.5 grains of 231 make a nice steel plate load that is fairly accurate. As Scriv said do not over crimp.

I've also experienced poor accuracy with the 180gr .40 cal bullets loaded in 10mm.

On the other hand, their 148gr .38 DEWC and 335gr .50 cal bullets are pretty accurate.
 
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Sorry i forgot the weight
38 spec 158g flat point
.40 just ordered 165 grainflat point
9mm ordered 124 grain round nose

I hope im not overpowering the 38sp my older lyman book says 3.5 - 4.9 231 i was loading them at 4.6 getting awsome groups newer lyman says 3.6- 4.0 and another one says 3.8 to 4.3 so witch one do i go with? yes any ideas would be great! Also the pistol is a 357 mag S&W thanks rob
 
Sorry forgot crimps i should bring to case size just to get rid of bell?

Yes, though I've found that even a very slight crimp improved accuracy, and did not hurt the bullets. You just have to be careful to not over crimp, as you will cut through the plating. One way to tell, is to crimp the round to what you think is good, hold the round by the case, and push the bullet against a hard surface to see if it moves easily. If it doesn't move, pull the bullet and see if the case mouth has cut into the plating and caused any damage.
 
Yes, though I've found that even a very slight crimp improved accuracy, and did not hurt the bullets. You just have to be careful to not over crimp, as you will cut through the plating. One way to tell, is to crimp the round to what you think is good, hold the round by the case, and push the bullet against a hard surface to see if it moves easily. If it doesn't move, pull the bullet and see if the case mouth has cut into the plating and caused any damage.

I'm using Berry's and what I did was pull the bullet and looked at the crimp. Your bullet should
have a barely noticeable crimp line in it. The first crimp I applied was similar to what I do
with lead or jacketed and it cracked the plating just above the crimp line.
 
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