• If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership  The benefits pay for the membership many times over.

Anyone load 10mm?

I've been shooting my reloads at the range for target and Silvertips for the rare times when I carry. Due to the VERY hight cost and limited selection of 10mm ammo (can't mail order anymore) I got myself an RL550B and cranked away. Lately I've been using plated bullets with good results but since I have yet to meet anyone at my club who shoots or reloads 10mm, I don't get to benefit from the experience of other 10mm reloaders.
 
I use Winchester 231, 180 gr plated bullets, and some Winchester brass. I'm still working up my load -- first couple were pretty light, so I'm increasing the powder charge.

Adding information according to Len's directions:

Brass manufacturer, and case trim length: Winchester brass. I have not trimmed the brass or checked the length.
Bullet manufacturer, bullet shape, and weight: Rainier, truncated cone TMJ (i.e., plated), 180 gr.
Primers used: Winchester WLP.
Powder manufacturer, type, and charge weight: Winchester 231, 5.7 grains
Crimp, yes or no: roll crimp
OAL of the finished round: 1.251 inches

That's the load that I've used. It feels less than full power, but I don't have a chronograph. When using this load, the slide does not lock open on the last round when using one of my magazines. When using factory ammo, the slide does lock back when using that magazine. So I think that does suggest that I'm below full power. I haven't seen any problems with the primers.

Remember, YMMV. Start light and work up slowly. Check your reloading manuals carefully before proceeding.
 
Last edited:
Thats what I was using. I used 6.3g of 231 pushing a 180g plated flat point. I since changed to AA#5 (better accuracy and cleaner). I now load 135g Plated Flat Point with 10.5g AA#5. Not full house, but accurate with a decent amont of power.
 
Mod Hat On!

Folks please read and comply with the rules here at the top of this forum. It is for everyone's safety and to avoid legal liabilities (lawsuits). Thanks.

Specifically:

You MUST list all specifications of the load data.

This includes the following:
Brass manufacturer, and case trim length.
Bullet manufacturer, bullet shape, and weight.
Primers used.
Powder manufacturer, type, and charge weight.
Crimp, yes or no.
OAL of the finished round.
If you are posting reloading data, please double check your post for accuracy, and typos before submitting your final post.
 
Tony,

The problem with that is that if anyone reading it tries to duplicate the load with not all the info, someone could get hurt.

Still best to give "favorite recipe" with all the details. Better to be safe than sorry.
 
Len, Wasn't posting a recipe, just stating what I've been using for general information. i.e. plated bullets better? Heavy vs slow, cleaner powder specific to 10mm. Thanks.
 
I just picked up a 10mm. And I'm going to start reloading that as well. What's nice is I just raise my .40 dies.

But I'm just going to use all my leftover factory brass and reload that. Haven't saved up enough yet, so I can't comment on how and what I'm loading. But I'm sure that I'll just tweak my 40 loads to 10mm powder levels....using my 48th book of course. [wink]
 
Nickle said:
C-Pher, you don't raise the sizer, IIRC. Just the expander and seater.


Well, yea, expanding/powder measure die, Seater die, and crimping die. I thikn that the sizing/decaping die will be fine. But I'll still do like I always do, raise the tray, drop the sizing down to the plate, then back it up a 1/4 turn.
 
TonyD said:
How do like the Starline brass and do you find it makes any difference in accuracy?

I'm not sure how Starline effects accuracy. Having used so many different combos of brass with .357 and .44 and getting a much more useful life out of the Starline brass, I chose it for 10mm, and will keep using it. I get excellent accuracy with my combo and feel no need to change anything.
HTH
 
I'm on my fourth reload of Starline 10mm brass with no signs of failure. I'll load them up one more time and probably discard them for my own peace of mind. This is where reloading shines. I can make my 10mm's for just about the same cost of 9mm's.
 
Was just wondering based on the above posts. If one had a 10mm revolver using moon clips, could one shoot .40SW throught it?

Regards,
Chris
 
BillO said:
Sure can.
I'm more than a little curious about the amount of crud that would build up in the chamber between the case mouth of the .40S&W and the headspacing shoulder for the 10mm. Also wondering if the lack of support between the case mouth and throat would lead to accuracy problems with the .40S&W. If the accuracy is still good as 10mm, then it would be worth trying.
Jack
 
I just had my first overpressure event. I went to up to 5.9 grains of Win 231 (the rest of the recipe was the same as above). The primers were flattened and one of the primers blew out (and the case bulged). Bad juju.

Time to back off.
 
jhrosier said:
I'm more than a little curious about the amount of crud that would build up in the chamber between the case mouth of the .40S&W and the headspacing shoulder for the 10mm. Also wondering if the lack of support between the case mouth and throat would lead to accuracy problems with the .40S&W. If the accuracy is still good as 10mm, then it would be worth trying.
Jack

I didn't know 10mm Revolvers had a "Headspacing shoulder".

I figure this would only be an issue on an auto..... and firing .40 S+W out
of a 10mm Auto semi (without a rebarrel) is asking for trouble... because then
our cartridge would be headspacing off the extractor and not the edge
of the chamber....

-Mike
 
drgrant said:
I didn't know 10mm Revolvers had a "Headspacing shoulder".

I figure this would only be an issue on an auto..... and firing .40 S+W out
of a 10mm Auto semi (without a rebarrel) is asking for trouble... because then
our cartridge would be headspacing off the extractor and not the edge
of the chamber....

-Mike
The S&W M610, 10mm revolver has a headspacing shoulder in the chamber, the same as the 1917 revolvers and the Model 25's. The cartridges can be fired, but there is no rim for the extractor to pull the cartridges from the chambers. The Model 610 uses moon clips for extraction.
The moon clips will also allow a shorter cartridge, the .40 S&W to be fired.
My question was whether the jump, usupported, from the case mouth to the throat would seriously compromise accuracy and whether a lot of crud would tend to build up on the exposed headspacing shoulder.
 
10mm

Have loaded up a batch of 10MM but have not shot any yet. My pistol is an EAA Witness with 6" match barrel. I have reloaded Federal (Amer. Eagle) brass with 155G Hornady HPs over 12g of Blue Dot. This is out of Hornardy reloading manual and is near but is not the max load. OAL is 1.230 as indicated in manual. Of interest is the fact that the Winchester 170G and the Federal factoryammo that I have shot all has flattened the primers. I will let you know the performance of this recipe...Best
 
Here's my favorite 10 mm load:

Brass - R-P nickle plated
Bullet - 180 gr JHP (unknown "name-brand" mfg - I got 2000 off ebay for $75)
Powder - 8gr of Alliant Power Pistol
Primer - CCI 300 (Large pistol)
OAL - 1.250"


The loads chrono out at 1150 fps (from a 4-1/4" barrel). The Power Pistol is a slower burning powder than the W231 that others are using. Since it burns slower, I can get decent velocities at lower pressures and my cases last longer.

EDIT: I should note that Power Pistol is not particulary clean burning.
 
Last edited:
BillO said:
Eddie, I'm shooting a S&W 1066. How many reloads are you getting out of your brass? I've been discarding mine after 3x.

I'm on #5 and counting. Why are you tossing them? Do they split?
 
Back
Top Bottom