Anyone applied Duracoat to an AR before? - Looking for advice.

[Red Lagoon 6]

I am starting an AR build and I am considering using Duracoat to paint my stripped upper and stripped lower. I understand that there may be better products than Duracoat out there, but I am a casual shooter - I am lucky if I get to the range once every two months. I am not concerned about the Duracoat wearing off, etc., as I have seen some of the complaints about Duracoat, nor would my wife let me bake cerokote in our oven.

I am likely to use one of the Shake and Spray kits in Magpul FDE.

So, I am looking for any advice on how you applied Duracoat to the stripped upper and lower. I have seen several videos in which every hole and opening was taped off and then I saw some videos were Duracoat was applied to the entire receiver. How did you do it? Any tips on applying it to the receivers? Were you happy with the outcome? Any photos?

Any other advice, thoughts, and/or comments, would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Garrett

 

[flintoid]

duracoat is a single part epoxy paint finish. It is the same ****ing thing as Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy Paint that you can buy at home depot for $5 a can.

epoxy based paints have high molecular cohesion: the paint likes to stick to itself. This makes the surface almost flexible- and it makes the surface finish highly resistant to abrasion. It also minimized cosmetic damage due to impact (scratching, etc). As with ALL paints, it will scratch if you're motivate enough with it.

Cerakote and duracoat is entirely different shit, but both qualify as "epoxies." Cerakote uses ceramic based thermoset fillers, and is activated via heat. You need heat to "melt" and cause the thermoset to bond. Cerakote is an "epoxy" that requires letent hardening. Duracoat does not. And I'll tell you why.

Duracoat's binder is a polymer that has epoxide groups. These epoxide groups bind to each other (cross-link) through reactions with phenols, heat, and other methods of curing. In Duracoat's (Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy's) case, it reacts through a little bit of both (from what I can tell)- it cross links with ions from the air, mostly. Heat tends to harden the surface from my personal experience, but I'm not sure if it's due to the molecules crosslinking with heat (like a thermoset) or if it's the heat removing additional solvent from the painted surface.

The solvent for the binder is an alcohol. Given that Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy claims you can just let it air dry, I think that it actually bonds with H ions from the air, or from humid air. Not sure how this works. If the solvent is water based, and it's actually reacting with Oxygen from the air, then it's technically not an "epoxy" but it still crosslinks, and still works generally the same way: The fact that it can cure, without heat, leads me to believe that Duracoat/appliance epoxy may actually be an enamel that reacts with moisture in the air for the cross-linking of the paint binder. And heat actually just accelerates the evaporation of the solvent, or binder carrier.

I keep telling myself this, but then when I leave one of my super bad-assed AK's sitting in the sun, unattended, for hours at a time, the paint chalks. And then I go back to thinking "holy ****, this shit really is an epoxy." Which leads me back around the merry-go-round. Either way, whether it's a polymer based enamel, or a epoxide group polymer that crosslinks with H ions/heat, it would still have similar mechanical properties given the nature of how little expoxide based polymer would have to flow in order to be applied in a single coat, out of an aerosol can.

I always bake the shit out of "single part" epoxy paints, and it seems to cross link (cure) the molecules just fine after baking.

How do you know this, flintoid?

Well, curing tests are very simple: if you can add the solvent (thinner, or whatever is mixed with the binder/vehicle of the paint in order to apply it) and the painted surface doesn't smear, or smudge, or soften, then your paint is cured.

On laquer paints, it will always mix and smear, as that type of paint relies on the evaporation of the solvent in order to "cure" the paint, or leave behind the binder. This is why you don't paint guns with laquers.


Anyways, just be sure that if your'e putting this on plastic, that you intend to keep it there forever. Getting this shit off plastic is tough. Like I said earlier- this single part epoxy paint has high molecular cohesion. It likes to stick to itself. And once it's cured, this shit resists alcohol and chemicals like the plague. In order to get it off, you have to use paint thinners that are strong enough that they damage plastic. So- if you're putting it on plastic, make sure you want it there, or you're ok with throwing it away when you're tired of it.


and, as usual: don't PM me with questions about this. Unless you are a green member. Then I'll share more of my professional experience with you.

I mostly post this shit to help inform people that Duracoat is actually over-priced horseshit. It's one of the more ridiculous scams that hits the gun industry. Gun owners are very gullible when marketing tosses words around like "super tough" "indestructible" "chemical resistant" "corrosion resistant" etc....

you know what is all of those things plus "endlessly enormous"? My dick.

 

[flintoid]

as far as application goes: follow the video guides. When painting, always always understand and adhere (get it?) to the following:

1. The substrate you are painting must be clean and free of oils and contaminants.

2. The substrate you are painting must be clean and free of oils and contaminants.

2. The substrate you are painting must be clean and free of oils and contaminants.


Essentially, wear gloves and clean your shit. Clean the surface you are painting with iso-propyl alcohol. Let it evaporate. Paint.


Do not put paint down your barrel. Do not put paint in your gas system. Do not put paint in your bolt, or near your FCG. If there are moving parts, it can gum it up. If you need gas to flow down it, you can block the gas. If you need a bullet to travel down it, you can hinder bullet travel.

Common sense. Tape it up and mask it off.

 

[KBCraig]

duracoat is a single part epoxy paint finish. It is the same ****ing thing as Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy Paint that you can buy at home depot for $5 a can.

Yes, but Rustoleum doesn't sell theirs in Goddess Purple to satisfy my special princess.

I guess if you want a rifle in "Biscuit" or gloss black, Rustoleum is fine.

 

[flintoid]

Yes, but Rustoleum doesn't sell theirs in Goddess Purple to satisfy my special princess.

I guess if you want a rifle in "Biscuit" or gloss black, Rustoleum is fine.

Very true. If you gotta have a pink rifle, rustoleum isn't going to cut it.

 

[Gammon]

I have a much simpler view on this subject. Any finish that you can apply yourself is not worth using. This is a job for the pros. Or, you could leave the parts alone; there is nothing wrong with aluminum.

 

[beaker]

To add to flintoids words of wisdom, you really should grit blast with 120 grit aluminum oxide before applying any paint. I have heard people have used walnut shell media, but can't comment on it. I have used duracoat and always grit blasted first. But I don't want it flaking off in a month or two. I usually degrease by soaking in acetone, then a spray down with brake cleaner if whatever you are painting won't dissolve in acetone or brake cleaner...

 

[flintoid]

I have a much simpler view on this subject. Any finish that you can apply yourself is not worth using. This is a job for the pros. Or, you could leave the parts alone; there is nothing wrong with aluminum.

You hold this opinion because you have no faith or confidence in your personal skillsets.

If you are one of those people who profess mastery of firearms handling through training and refinement of mechanical hand eye coordination, I highly suggest you open your narrowly minded views to other science.

Coordination, common sense, and applied knowledge can get you a firearm finish better than you currently imagine. Most "pros" apply them at a "kindergarten paint class level" from what I have seen on the internet. It doesn't take much to be successful at this.

If you can't apply the above to firearm training... then you might be a hypocrite.

 

[flintoid]

To add to flintoids words of wisdom, you really should grit blast with 120 grit aluminum oxide before applying any paint. I have heard people have used walnut shell media, but can't comment on it. I have used duracoat and always grit blasted first. But I don't want it flaking off in a month or two. I usually degrease by soaking in acetone, then a spray down with brake cleaner if whatever you are painting won't dissolve in acetone or brake cleaner...

Solid advice.

Textured surfaces on metal tend to help retain coatings better. More surface area and all that shit.

Media blasting also cleans the substrate

 

[GunGrey]

I have a much simpler view on this subject. Any finish that you can apply yourself is not worth using. This is a job for the pros. Or, you could leave the parts alone; there is nothing wrong with aluminum.

Guns are tools that are meant to be used, they will show signs of use no matter what you do. I own them not to look at but to use.

You hold this opinion because you have no faith or confidence in your personal skillsets.

If you are one of those people who profess mastery of firearms handling through training and refinement of mechanical hand eye coordination, I highly suggest you open your narrowly minded views to other science.

Coordination, common sense, and applied knowledge can get you a firearm finish better than you currently imagine. Most "pros" apply them at a "kindergarten paint class level" from what I have seen on the internet. It doesn't take much to be successful at this.

If you can't apply the above to firearm training... then you might be a hypocrite.

****ing A

grab a can and go to town

 

[mac1911]

If I didnt start applying my own skills(learned either by reading talking with others or just trying out myself) I still would be dishing out mega bucks to gunsmiths. Dont get me wrong there are gunsmiths out there with skills above and beyound both in wisdom and tools most of us will not reach. As far as painting a AR....ahhhhno. With a little time and I can do it mindset you can do it......now ask me to hand cut and fit and checker a 1k pc of wood for your custom rifle or shotty, no thank you. Ask me to do a semi inletted plain jane walnut stock and fit a recoil pad....no problem. I dont even want to know what it would have cost to get my last 3 projects to where they are right now if I needed to pay a pro. I only ask you to look at the huge increase in "build your own" section... Have fun give it a whirl.

 

[Red Lagoon 6]

I am going to give a try. What's the worst that can happen?


The few places I asked about having it down wanted close to double what I paid for the receivers.

I will just be like the little engine that could " I think I can, I think I can."

There is enough out there on the net and YouTube that I should be ok.

 

[Gammon]

You hold this opinion because you have no faith or confidence in your personal skillsets.

If you are one of those people who profess mastery of firearms handling through training and refinement of mechanical hand eye coordination, I highly suggest you open your narrowly minded views to other science.

Coordination, common sense, and applied knowledge can get you a firearm finish better than you currently imagine. Most "pros" apply them at a "kindergarten paint class level" from what I have seen on the internet. It doesn't take much to be successful at this.

If you can't apply the above to firearm training... then you might be a hypocrite.

Wow, Flintstone, disagree with you and I'm a hypocrite. I stand by my former assessment of DIY paint jobs. I believe that paint on finishes are inferior and prefer more durable finishes that require a professional application. This has nothing to do with skill and training. I find the practice of painting firearms personally repulsive, something best left to the Europeans. I have a beautiful CZ 75 Shadow with a disgusting paint job. I am going to have it industrial hard chromed as soon as I get the opportunity.

 

[Buryingthesun]

I once spray painted my face instead of the part I was trying to paint. . . ohh I am quite the rabble rouser