Any tips!

[1903Collector]

On removing the front sight taper pins on an AR? I have to change the handguard cap so I thought I would ask first.

Thanks

 

[Kaos116]

http://www.varminthunters.com/ar15tech/freefloat/ar15freefloat.html

 

[mac1911]

http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=3&f=4&t=226782 also scroll through they go over different types of hand guard install also. Brownells has a good how to video section. Then theres always youtube

 

[zerodown]

Yes - They SUCK!!!!. If you don't have a front sight bench block then you can try to use a piece of hardwood and cut out a channel to cradle the sight & barrel. The gun will want to move around a bunch when you are using the punch so the more stable you can make it the better off you will be. Also make sure you are working on a hard sturdy surface that will not give or bounce. Some pins need a number of really good whacks to start them off so I wouldn't recommend a plywood workbench or anything like that.

Also, spend the money and get the taper pin start punch. Regular punches can either peen themselves or peen the taper pins - both of which will make the job that much more difficult. If you start to peen the taper pins stop and re-assess how you are going about it. One option if you are open to it is to use a drill press and make a very small divot in each pin. This can help keep the punch centered while you are smacking it with the hammer. Other than that, give it hell and good luck.

 

[1903Collector]

Yes - They SUCK!!!!. If you don't have a front sight bench block then you can try to use a piece of hardwood and cut out a channel to cradle the sight & barrel. The gun will want to move around a bunch when you are using the punch so the more stable you can make it the better off you will be. Also make sure you are working on a hard sturdy surface that will not give or bounce. Some pins need a number of really good whacks to start them off so I wouldn't recommend a plywood workbench or anything like that.

Also, spend the money and get the taper pin start punch. Regular punches can either peen themselves or peen the taper pins - both of which will make the job that much more difficult. If you start to peen the taper pins stop and re-assess how you are going about it. One option if you are open to it is to use a drill press and make a very small divot in each pin. This can help keep the punch centered while you are smacking it with the hammer. Other than that, give it hell and good luck.

Ordererd the punch and bench block.....and extra pins

Thanks guys.

 

[DukeInFlorida]

From my experience:

• Some of the pins come out easy, and others are a bear to get out.
• The barrels that seem to be "painted" are the worst for removing pins.
• As you mentioned, the pins are tapered. Make sure you are punching from the smallest end.
• The paint that some companies put on the front tree can cause the pins to get "glued" in, and are tough to remove. I once broke two punch outs trying to get pins removed.
• The paint can sometimes hide or mask the smaller end, and make it tough to tell which end is which.
• Add good solid support under the tree when punching out the pins. A concrete floor (supported by 2 X 4's) is better than a flexing bench top.
• Use a firm hammer. Don't tap-tap-tap with too small a hammer. Use a brute force hammer, and the correct sized punch, and give it a good whomp.

 

[1903Collector]

Maybe I don't have to do this......can you use round handguards with a triangular cap? I did a test fit and it appears to work. The round guards have a notch which makes clearence for the cap, is that the intended ppurpose of that notch? Sorry for the dumb question, this is my first upper build.

Thanks