Any 38 special revolvers has light trigger pull

[2garfields]

Looking for a small revolver and try few of them at a shop, all have very heavy trigger pull (10lbs I think), any of them has lighter pull (Around 5lb), or can it be mod to lighter?

Please keep this in mind, I am a "Newbie" to revoler

 

[Len-2A Training]

My Wife's (S&W 64-3) and my (S&W 642) both have what we'd call "light trigger pulls" for a revolver. Strictly the result of an excellent trigger job by Greg Derr (paid gunsmith here, from Marshfield) for very short money (was $45 each a few years ago). [My 642 started out at 14# measured, just brutal!]

According to Greg, you can't get to 5# on a revolver or you get unreliable strikes on the primers. He explained that "smooth" feels light and does the trick. My students all like the 64's trigger.

Greg shoots competitively NRA matches held at Braintree R&P (he's a member there) and Sharon F&G, so you can arrange to drop off/pick up at one of these places after a match instead of driving to Marshfield if schedules work out.

 

[TBalls]

+1 on Greg Derr. Otherwise check out the Ruger LCR. DA is a lot closer to 8#.

 

[Smash05]

LCR or Trigger Job, or find an old K frame Snub

 

[fbirdquik6]

+1 for the K frame

 

[Remsport Mfg]

The S&W revolvers come out of the factory with a 14lbs trigger. We can do a smooth trigger job for you on any revolver. 5lbs will give you a unreliable revolver. 9-10 smooth trigger job you will think it is 5lbs.
John
413 579 1994

 

[mike01824]

I recently was in the market for a snubbie 38 after deciding I hate my BG380. Settle on the Ruger LCR based on the stock trigger... Walked out of the gun store with a Sig P238.

 

[Palladin]

I changed out my 442 to a Wolf spring last year....smooth pull, think it's 13lbs

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/375177/wolff-shooters-spring-pack-s-and-w-j-frame-reduced-power

 

[Supermoto]

The little ones are difficult to get a good trigger pull on. But on the K/L/N frame, you can get a sub 5 lbs reliable trigger. It takes a good amount of effort.

 

[chadwick]

I just purchased the LCR in 357 which has same trigger action as 38 model and in my opinion it is very smooth and easy to find the spot in travel where hammer is about to be released. In other words there is no noticeable stacking, trigger pull is VERY linear through entire travel. I don't have a lot of experience for I am just getting back into the sport after a long hiatus so my perspective is from that of a novice. A friend's Model 637's stock trigger is nowhere near as smooth or free of stacking. Realistically for personal protection the LCR chambered in 38 is plenty, especially with +p rounds, and at 13.5 oz at $369.95 it's a no brainer.

 

[scooter]

Don't bother if its a 617 very difficult to get reliable

 

[mousegunfan]

If you want a trigger that light just get a DA/SA revolver. A smooth trigger is better than a light trigger. Don't get caught up in trigger weight.

 

[M1911]

J-frame triggers are hard to get very good, but they can be lightened and smoothed up somewhat. Expect S&W airweight triggers to be crap from the factory.

I've got three K-frames with trigger jobs on them. My 4" Model 66 is solely for competition and is only reliable with Federal primers that are well seated. Greg Derr did a trigger job on my Model 19 that is quite nice. And I've got a 2.5" Model 66 with a trigger job done by the previous owner.

 

[Dnotarianni]

Personally 80% of a light trigger on any S&W is changing the rebound spring and stoning the sides of the internal parts is the rest

dave

 

[7.62x39]

There is a very good reason why revolvers have a trigger pull in the 10lb range. They have no safety. You want a lighter pull, go for a DA/SA and just cock it.

 

[M1911]

There is a very good reason why revolvers have a trigger pull in the 10lb range. They have no safety. You want a lighter pull, go for a DA/SA and just cock it.

I competed in IDPA using a revolver for about a year. Cocking the gun, even just on harder shots, was a serious waste of time. It was just far too slow. Getting a good trigger job done on the gun which both smoothed and lightened the double action trigger was a very large improvement. Personally, I don't think my 10 lb triggers are unsafe. YMMV.

And btw, Glocks don't have external safeties and their trigger pull is both a lot shorter than the DA pull of a revolver and a lot less than 10 lbs (typically around 6 lbs).

 

[7.62x39]

If you are talking about a competition only hand gun that is a whole different ball game. Glocks don't have an external safety because that have 3 internal passive safeties .

 

[M1911]

If you are talking about a competition only hand gun that is a whole different ball game. Glocks don't have an external safety because that have 3 internal passive safeties .

And revolvers have effectively the same internal safeties. In what way is a Glock with a short 6 lb trigger pull safer than a revolver with a long 8 lb trigger pull? Or an HK LEM or a SIG DAK? Every single one of those guns has a trigger pull less than 10 lbs and no manual safety. And every single one of those guns is drop safe. And every single one of those guns will go bang if you pull the trigger.

I won't carry my competition revolver simply because it has a trigger job that is extreme enough that it is only reliable with federal primers that are seated deeply - with factory ammo it has misfires 1/2 the time. It is a specialized gun. But that doesn't mean that you can't or shouldn't get a revolver trigger job that reduces trigger weight. The factory trigger weight was designed by lawyers, not by what is reasonable and effective.

And, by the way, my 2.5in Model 66 had a trigger job that was performed by an ex police officer who was a factory trained S&W armorer. It was one of his carry guns.

 

[7.62x39]

And revolvers have effectively the same internal safeties. In what way is a Glock with a short 6 lb trigger pull safer than a revolver with a long 8 lb trigger pull?

What safeties are you referring to other than a hammer block, which only comes into play if the firearm is dropped. I don't recall ever seeing a trigger safety on a revolver.
While I have never actually measured the difference of the pull length between a revolver and a Glock, I own both (5 Glocks, 2 S&W) and can assure you that any difference is minimal.

 

[M1911]

What safeties are you referring to other than a hammer block, which only comes into play if the firearm is dropped. I don't recall ever seeing a trigger safety on a revolver.
While I have never actually measured the difference of the pull length between a revolver and a Glock, I own both (5 Glocks, 2 S&W) and can assure you that any difference is minimal.

I own 2 Glocks and 7 S & W revolvers. I can assure you the travel of the DA trigger on your revolvers is measurably longer than the travel of the triggers on your Glocks. We can argue about whether that difference is minimal.

As for the trigger safety, the SIG DAK and HK LEM guns don't have tigger safeties either. They have trigger weights less than 10 lbs (in the 6-8 range if I recall correctly). Do you think they are unsafe?

 

[Taipan01]

My 642 was a bit rough at first but after dry firing a couple thousand times (with gloves on) smoothed it out nicely.

 

[pj150]

Go old school and get a trigger shoe. Spreads the weight of the trigger across more surface so it 'feels' lighter.