Another Smith another return

I'm not sure if the main srping had been replaced. My gunsmith doesn't think so, but he was was suspicious that the side plate had been removed at some point, which would indicate potential fiddling with the internals.. I bought the gun on Gunbroker from the Kittery Trading Post; they claim the gun was NIB. IF S&W can resolve the problem and I can get the gun working properly I MAY ask my gunsmith to "polish" the internals for smoother operation. Actually, the double action on the gun is already very smooth so that may not be necessary or desirable. However, before I do any modifications I need to ensure that the gun is firing properly.
Bingo
Theres so much more that goes into it aside from a spring swap.

Surprised that no one mentioned the rebound spring. It can have the same effect on light strikes.

Bet my bottom dollar that OP's revolver has been mucked with.

.
 
There is a reason that older revolvers and model 41's cost almost as much as a new one.
You can't go wrong with the older S&W's.
Smith's QC has been sucking on and off for years.
This, This and This. [thinking] Quality control on new Smith & Wessons is abysmal. You need to assume that it is going to have to go back to the factory for something at least once before it starts to work right. Sad, but true. [banghead]

Older Smith & Wessons is the way to go. [thumbsup]
 
Wow. Being the geezer that I am now I can remember it wasnt too long ago when you could drop off the gun at the S&W guard shack and pickup at the same location the next week. Got the old parts back plus a few cool giveaways.

Used to spend a few hours at the S&W range down the road while I was there where for 25 dollars you get to try out as many new guns in the case with a couple of boxes of ammo included with the rental fee.
 
That’s cuz Jerry Miculek put out a nice video showing us how to do it. Made us all think we could be our own gunsmiths...
Because we can, it is very easy. Replacing all the springs is very easy.

The only somewhat hard part is polishing, and I say "somewhat hard" because you could polish too much or polish it like sh*t if you don't have the right tools.

SW sells kit guns. You get them and you have to do all your own work to replace the parts and make it a complete / functional gun. I am glad Ruger came out with the Super GP 100, maybe SW will stop f*cking around and deliver a better competition product that is actually "competition ready".
 
I watched the video. Interesting. When he was done he said he had set the revolver to a 7.5 lb trigger pull. That seems very light. He did say that the tension was dependent on the ammunition but I still think 7.5 lbs would be too light for 100% reliability.
Send a Smith revolver to TK custom and it will come back with a 5lb (or lighter) pull.

I worked on mine and got it down to 6lbs. It ignites Federal reliably, and 90-95% of sh*t steel cased ammo Tula, which I don't care about because I only use it with reloads.

I replaced the main spring, trigger spring, extended firing pin and replaced the hammer. The hammer was the key, I got a DA only hammer from TK Custom that is lighter but has more mass at the top. Based on what I read, that allows the trigger pull to be made lighter without having ignition failures. I then sent it to a Smith to polish.
 
Because we can, it is very easy. Replacing all the springs is very easy.

The only somewhat hard part is polishing, and I say "somewhat hard" because you could polish too much or polish it like sh*t if you don't have the right tools.

SW sells kit guns. You get them and you have to do all your own work to replace the parts and make it a complete / functional gun. I am glad Ruger came out with the Super GP 100, maybe SW will stop f*cking around and deliver a better competition product that is actually "competition ready".
Well, the first time I tried to do it myself I ended up shipping S&W a bucket of parts and a note saying that a “friend” tried to help me out and. Oils they now put my gun back together for me? They took care of it. I’m a little better now.
 
When 9/11/01 struck, I checked all my firearms in my safe. I had a new S&W Ti Model 337 (I think) in .38 +P. Function checking out the gun I found could not get the loaded cylinder to release from the frame...S&W called it BS, but when my revolver hit the gunsmiths at S&W bench, I was told they needed to swap frames, no reason given.
 
When 9/11/01 struck, I checked all my firearms in my safe. I had a new S&W Ti Model 337 (I think) in .38 +P. Function checking out the gun I found could not get the loaded cylinder to release from the frame...S&W called it BS, but when my revolver hit the gunsmiths at S&W bench, I was told they needed to swap frames, no reason given.

I had the exact same issue with my 337. (Was before 9/11). Forgot the issue, but might have been the ejector rod. Think I could press in the detent and open it.

Either way, it was hardly fired. But they took care of me and I still have it.
 
Smith and Wesson is awful. Last 3 ended back at S&W for repairs. 4-6 week wait time. Going to spend my money elsewhere for now on.
 

Attachments

  • FEB2A7F4-F0D8-4618-BF21-F3589D08C10F.jpeg
    FEB2A7F4-F0D8-4618-BF21-F3589D08C10F.jpeg
    330.5 KB · Views: 24
  • FD8037F1-5BB7-47A3-AD37-9EF1839F5638.jpeg
    FD8037F1-5BB7-47A3-AD37-9EF1839F5638.jpeg
    127.4 KB · Views: 22
  • C979F8EF-22EE-4BC7-BBC0-CF76DDEDC287.jpeg
    C979F8EF-22EE-4BC7-BBC0-CF76DDEDC287.jpeg
    258.1 KB · Views: 22
Did you get it back yet? What was the word on it?
Haven't got the revolver back yet. I have a reminder on my phone to call Smith at the end of the month to follow up. It will have been 6 weeks by August 28. They did say it would take 4 to 6 weeks to be examined & fixed.
 
The only S&Ws that I own that weren't made in the 60s or 70s are a full size M&P 9mm with the worst trigger in the history of triggers..maybe 18 pounds, long, creepy, and evidently coated in sand. Virtually unshootable as is. My other one is a Bodyguard .380 I received as a gift. I hate mouse guns and I see no use for a tiny pocket pistol. I carry a full sized gun mostly concealed but I couldn't care less if you see it. Having said that, I have shot the little thing quite a lot and it shoots amazingly well for such a small gun. It also has a relatively heavy trigger but its not unmanageable. In fact, its probably about right for a pocket gun. After several boxes of ammo its been 100 per cent reliable.
 
I finally got my 586 back last Thursday. According to the paperwork they replaced the main spring and the strain screw.
Took it to the range on Saturday and she performed flawlessly. I ran 75 rounds through her double and single action with no hiccups.
Needless to say I am very happy to have the revolver back and working properly. Thanks to all who participated in this thread with advice and comments.
 
I can't believe it takes Smith and Wesson 6 weeks to repair a gun. I've sent Glocks back to be refurbed that I shot until they absolutely took a great big crap on themselves and I usually get them back with-in two weeks. They've had my M&P for at least six weeks now.
 
This won't be a surprise to anyone who followed this thread, S&W still sucks. I like their revolvers. Even after having some QC issues of my own, I figured they can't all suck. I was wrong. This time I found a Performance Center model that I've been after for quite some time. Oh joy! I looked over two of them in the shop and took home the one I thought was the better. The one I left there had an out of true ejector rod and it looked as if it were tightened with a pair of vice grips. A smart person would have called it quits right there. I'm not a quitter. The first problem that I saw when I got it home was that the rear sight was bottomed all the way down and I had read about this in a few online forums. So I get the proper screw driver with the proper blade and attempt to make a simple adjustment. Not this time. Screw won't budge. Last thing I want to do is bung up the screw on my new gun. I give it a little more. Nothing. So I remove the sight from the frame. The screw and the square key that locks into the frame are seized. S&W are sending me a new rear sight. Now that a new one is on the way, I have no fear, I'm going to try a little harder. I place a large flat blade screw driver between the square key and the windage adjustment barrel so the key can't rotate. I'm going for it. When it broke loose, it made a loud snap noise like when you're dealing with dissimilar metal corrosion. Whoever seated that screw must have really driven it home because I never would have used that amount of force while it was still mounted to the gun. My question for you folks is, should the rear sight base of a K frame revolver be pre- stressed? When I removed it from the frame there was quite a bend in it. I guess I'll see when the new one arrives. Sorry for the long explanation, there are a few other issues that I'm too irritated at the moment to get into. Performance Center....right.
 
I really hate hearing all of this about S&W. I have an 80's vintage 686 and Mrs. Mountain has a pre-lock 686+. Both are excellent revolvers with zero issues. I'd really like to get a 500 some day but these complaints have me spooked.
 
Batting 2 for 3 with Smith & Wesson. First it was a Model 41 (supposed to be top of the line) with a sticky safety and multiple failures to extract.
Now its a Model 586 revolver with light strikes all over the place. S&W says 4 to 6 weeks before I get it back.
My gunsmith says quality control @ S&W has gone down the toilet and I have to agree with him.
I don't think I'll be buying any more S&W guns. I just wish CZ made revolvers!
CZ owns Dan Wesson and Colt.
 
I really hate hearing all of this about S&W. I have an 80's vintage 686 and Mrs. Mountain has a pre-lock 686+. Both are excellent revolvers with zero issues. I'd really like to get a 500 some day but these complaints have me spooked.
Then I absolutely won't tell you about the cylinder to forcing cone gap. Flat blade feeler gauge says .002. Service tech told me proper spec is .004-.010. That's a pretty wide range? It may have to go back if this becomes a problem.
 
I bought an M&P 45 and that POS went back to the factory 3 times before it was right. Once I felt it was "good enough" - I traded it in for an H&K. Not the first S&W I had problems with. It was the last one I'll ever own though, I can tell you that. IMHO, that brand is f***ing trash. I put them in the same camp as a Hi-Point.
 
My question for you folks is, should the rear sight base of a K frame revolver be pre- stressed? When I removed it from the frame there was quite a bend in it.
Yes.

Between my son and myself, we went 2 for 3 with new S&W revolvers in the last 12 months. My TRR8 is perfecto. His 66 is fine. His 686+ had to go back with timing issues. It's fine now, though.
 
My 686+ is a POS that was assembled with zero regard. PC isnt what it used to be. Hopefully going back this weekend.
 
Andrew says Dan Wessons break all the time.
🤣 not ALL the time. The barrel splitting (and the frame) on my 357 was DW/CZ’s fault for not heat treating the barrel.
I got a spare barrel a couple months ago as a backup in case the forcing cone erosion starts to look iffy
 
Smith is horrible. They started to whore out on their reputation once they figured out like 50-70% of their guns get bought and never fired. They know that smith acolytes will tolerate that bullshit because most of them would look at you askance if suggested they buy anything else. I could put 3 x 4" 357s in a glass case, a new 686+, a slightly used korth and a used mr73. An easy 8/10 smith acolytes are still dumb enough they'd still pick the new 686+. 🤣

I wonder what their factory QC failure rate is, I wouldn't be shocked if it was 20% of guns shipped, maybe worse.
 
Back
Top Bottom