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Another Bench Thread - Super 1050 bench requirements

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by jrpascucci, Dec 4, 2018.

  1. jrpascucci

    jrpascucci NES Member

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    It looks like there hasn't been a 'what is your dream bench' thread in a few years.

    What would you want in a bench setup?

    I've basically convinced myself to buy a super 1050 (which might get autobotted at some point). But, I feel like I should have a place to put it.
    • How thick can the benchtop be where it's going to mount?
    • I got the impression that mounting it in the center is the righter thing.
    • I feel like it has to be mounted lower than usual for my space (described below)
    • I will be building benches, shelves, &c for this express purpose:
      • Will be screwed into pressure treated drills into the concrete for stability.
      • 2x4s and 4x4 posts, maybe solid core door with sacrificial mdf or the like. I am also capable of welding something 1/2" thick. Or a combination.
      • I will be making it: 4x4s legs, 2x4s, probably solid core door for a top with a sacrificial mdf or the like. Or, I can mig weld something 1/2" thick or less abouts. Or a combination of the two.
      • The stud wall at the stairs will get filled in with oak ply, and get shelves put on it mostly on the right-hand side. On the left, I can build maybe a bookcase-equivelent.
    • how much horizontal surface area should I be thinking about, and of what kind? I've sort of had the idea of a U shape.

    Space: Here's a diagram of the area I can set aside for it (I can get more, but then I have to move stuff, and ain't nobody got time for that). I mean, I suppose I could also just take over an unused guest room, but basement seems like the appropriate places.

    And, yes, I know the diagram, viewed in 3d looks like something from Fallout - indeed, the walls aren't there in real life, they just represent the area beyond which I have other things (welder and washer/dryer in one section, cnc in another, woodworking in another, artsy bullshit in another. I couldn't figure out how to represent it, but the space has head-height problems for standing and walking (specifically, cast iron pipes at about 2 inches closer to the ground than I am, which is the precise height to catch me unawares and rattle all the pipes in the house with my skull). Two lally columns in the working area, which I suppose I could attach things to for stability. My existing gunsmithing bench has to fit in this area too

    Highest height is about 7 feet, 6' in some places with the pipes or other things. How far away from the ceiling should the super 1050 (with all the bells and whistles) mount?

    Bolted to cement, also to wall for stability.

    What are your lessons learned since last time? What practical things should I consider?

    Thanks,

    JRP
     

  2. andrew1220

    andrew1220 NES Member

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    Jealous. That would really cut down on the time I spend in the basement cranking out 9mm. I can do about 400ish per hour on my Hornady LNL.
     
  3. andrew1220

    andrew1220 NES Member

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  4. one-eyed Jack

    one-eyed Jack Manufacturer Dealer NES Member

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    I've found that the bench needs not be strong enough to hold up a truck as long as you have an upright from under or next to the press to the floor. Jack.
     
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  5. hv55maxx

    hv55maxx NES Member

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    whatever you decide for the bench, plumb in a dehumidifier if you're in a concrete basement.
     
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  6. Rob Boudrie

    Rob Boudrie

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    I have the regular 1050. It's the old one with the 4" diameter hub with roller bearings before they cheapened up the linkage into that J shaped thing - even Brian Enos says "that's the good one". I have it mounted on the front edge of my reloading bench that is topped with 34" plywood. The key is the 2x4 cross beams supporting the plywood are near the edge so there are two bolts on each side of the support 2x4. I had trouble with the handle hitting the bench. On my old bench, I notched the wood. On the new one, I used a piece of plywood cut to match the base size of the 1050 as a spacer to elevate it a bit.

    I used the Eastwood brackets to build a workbench. I store all my bullets on the bottom shelf so it is rock solid without the need to bolt it down.
    Yup. My papers felt damp, but a dehumidifier solved that nicely.
     
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  7. jrpascucci

    jrpascucci NES Member

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    Already taken care of: I had an open sump pit, closed it in, put the dehumidifier drain down into it. It's down to about 40% now, I think.
     
  8. jrpascucci

    jrpascucci NES Member

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    • Very good idea about putting ammo in very bottom of bench for weight: I'll actually box in the bottom (a touch off the floor) with a locking lid for high quantity, safe and organized ammo storage.
    • Any thoughts on a good workflow?
      • I figure you need a section set aside for just case management: rock chucker with decapping for rifle, wet and dry cleaning depending, case lube and trim/debur?
      • Another little area that you can do primer juggling while cranking.
      • An organization for managing case loading, bullets, powder.
      • Shelves for various stuff, like dies.
    • What's the clearance required around the 1050 itself? (Presume I'll be changing calibers middlingly often).
      • Looks like it should have 1-2 feet on each side, so a clearish surface maybe 3-4' wide, 2.5' back to front, more or less reserved to just that.
      • I'm unclear on the height - is it about 3 feet above the bench? 4?
    I've attached an mspaint top-down view (in the gray area I can't stand up in, hit head. I figure if I do it too much, I might start to regress into libertarianism)
    [​IMG]

    I think I see most with some variation of it in #4.

    I was thinking about putting it somewhere like #1, on the theory that I can get at it from the back, and finished rounds could be shunted off the side, but I suppose they could just as easily be sent down a ramp off the front to a bucket on the floor.

    I was also thinking about putting it somewhere like maybe #2, handle is off the side of the table, most of the supplies are on the left.

    I can go with a more exotic shape if it makes sense to do so.
     

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  9. EddieZoom

    EddieZoom NES Member

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  10. mac1911

    mac1911 NES Member

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    My space is small and Im trying to figure out a good systsm for storing and mounting my presses. In the process of redoing my space. Was thinking going with a T track type of system on the main bench then along a wall a shelf with a track just wide enough to mount the stuff when not in use.
    Im still a good amount of time away from any solid plans as i need to continue purging before I can do anhthing.
     
  11. Rob Boudrie

    Rob Boudrie

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    Staple some bubble wrap to the place where you will hit your head. If you have any small kids you can use leftover after they are bubblewrapped for school or the playground.
     
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  12. Rob Boudrie

    Rob Boudrie

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    Covered in another thread, but these are about the most solid brackets you can get:

    Eastwood Shop Table Bracket Kit

    They also make an unpainted version (they didn't have the powder coated version when I bought mine). They cost a fistful of dollars, but are very durable (3/16 steel, attached with carriage bolts through the 4x4's). I think it's worth a few dollars more for the powder coated version. You can build a bench without using brackets, but it takes more skill and a man has to know his limitations. The real question if you build a bench without bracket is "are you feeling lucky today?".
     
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