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ak muzzle brake gunsmithing

They only turn the barrel down just enough to remove the threads. A 14MM brake should be almost a light press fit. Slide the brake on, align it with a mandrill and weld it on. No spacers or adapters required, since it needs to be permanently attached anyway, you're killing two birds with one stone.
 
They only turn the barrel down just enough to remove the threads. A 14MM brake should be almost a light press fit. Slide the brake on, align it with a mandrill and weld it on. No spacers or adapters required, since it needs to be permanently attached anyway, you're killing two birds with one stone.

I was thinking way more into this lol .
Figure with the thumb hole stock if it was threaded he could try a few out before converting the rest of the gun and then welding it .
 
Best bet would be press a slant brake on and tack weld it.

I don't trust and gimmicky methods of attaching something when considerable pressure is involved. I've seen too many cage style brakes go down range. Its not only dangerous to the shooter but more so to the people shooting alongside that person.
 
My M&M M10-762 came with no brake and the end of my barrel was turned, but to the correct diameter and length needed for threading. The rest of the barrel had a larger diameter so I'm glad they turned the area from the factory. I guess they use the same barrel but just didn't thread it for the ban state versions. I just use the 14-1 lh die and thread adapter to do it and it was a piece of cake and came out perfectly.
 
My M&M M10-762 came with no brake and the end of my barrel was turned, but to the correct diameter and length needed for threading. The rest of the barrel had a larger diameter so I'm glad they turned the area from the factory. I guess they use the same barrel but just didn't thread it for the ban state versions. I just use the 14-1 lh die and thread adapter to do it and it was a piece of cake and came out perfectly.

I just picked up an M&M M10-762 myself and I'm in the same boat. Looking at tools and brakes from CNC Warrior. Is that where you got yours?
 
I got one of those last year and I was considering putting in for a stamp to lop about 4" off of the barrel. I guess that there's a lot of other owners that have done so considering how much is exposed after the front sight. Just another option for you to consider if you don't mind waiting that long.

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I just picked up an M&M M10-762 myself and I'm in the same boat. Looking at tools and brakes from CNC Warrior. Is that where you got yours?

Yep, that is one of the better places to get them. Very easy to use, and their kit even comes with a little can of "Tap Magic" cutting oil which you will still have plenty left for other threading projects. If you follow the classifieds in the AK parts section of AR15.com you should be able to find a "used once" set and save a few bucks, but that depends on your timeframe.
 
Yep, that is one of the better places to get them. Very easy to use, and there kit even comes with a little can of "Tap Magic" cutting oil which you will still have plenty left for other threading projects. If you follow the classifieds in the AK parts section of AR15.com you should be able to find a "used once" set and save a few bucks, but that depends on your timeframe.

Sweet, thanks for the info. I'm in no rush. Just thinking ahead. I will definitely see if I can borrow the tools from some machine shop friends first. I doubt I'll ever use it again and wouldn't mind keeping the $50.
 
Sweet, thanks for the info. I'm in no rush. Just thinking ahead. I will definitely see if I can borrow the tools from some machine shop friends first. I doubt I'll ever use it again and wouldn't mind keeping the $50.

One word of caution about borrowing the tools. I seriously doubt that any of your machine shop buds will have a TAT(thread alignment tool), let alone a 14x1 LH die. Even if they happen to have the die, you should not attempt to thread it without the TAT. The TAT keeps the threads in perfect alignment to the bore of the rifle, so without that, you run a risk of misalignment which could in the best case wreck accuracy, or in the worst case make the gun dangerous. Your buddies could make you a TAT, but honestly it wouldn't be worth the effort (time is money), when the tool is so cheap. If you think it is a one time thing for you, you can also easily re-sell the kit for almost what you paid. You'd obviously lose shipping cost, and maybe a few bucks on the kit, but it would be cheap "rental" of the tool.[wink]
 
One word of caution about borrowing the tools. I seriously doubt that any of your machine shop buds will have a TAT(thread alignment tool), let alone a 14x1 LH die. Even if they happen to have the die, you should not attempt to thread it without the TAT. The TAT keeps the threads in perfect alignment to the bore of the rifle, so without that, you run a risk of misalignment which could in the best case wreck accuracy, or in the worst case make the gun dangerous. Your buddies could make you a TAT, but honestly it wouldn't be worth the effort (time is money), when the tool is so cheap. If you think it is a one time thing for you, you can also easily re-sell the kit for almost what you paid. You'd obviously lose shipping cost, and maybe a few bucks on the kit, but it would be cheap "rental" of the tool.[wink]


Good point. You're right. Just suck it up and buy the kit if I decide to do it. Now that I've got the rifle home, stripped down and inspected, I'm more concerned with the canted FSB. ****ing Romanians. It didn't look bad at the shop. Now it's bothering my OCD.
 
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