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A2 front sight removal

XTAV750

XTAV750

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Help a brother out.

So I decided to reconfigure my AR to a free float rail. I've been trying to punch out the pins holding the front sight, and those mofos are not moving. I tried soaking them with PB blaster, but no luck. The good news is that in my attempts to get these ahole pins out, they're getting mangled. At what point to I go by a dremel and cut them off, or take it to a shop to have them removed. I'd really rather do it myself, but I'm not sure what to do next.
 
first, they're usually tapered so are you sure you're punching them in the right direction?

Are you using the right size punch?

and yes, they can get pressed in with tons of force when made so they can be hard to get apart

who made the upper?
 
Make sure you aren't using a girl-hammer. Get you some nice American metal like a 24oz Estwing, or maybe a baby-sledge and let it drop a few times. The brownells block has nice markings to make sure you are pounding the right way and it holds captive the pins upon success-nothing you can't make out of a 2x4 and reading the manual.


Forget the lube and just give'r. [thumbsup]
 
If brute force doesn't work,………………………………….
you haven't used enough brute force.


It's been a while since I've messed around with tapered-pin front sight towers, but I think you'll want to drive them out left to right, when looking down at the barrel (muzzle away from you).
 
The upper is DPMS. Tapered pins, and I've been banging them left to right. It looks pretty obvious which side to work on. I think I'm using the right sized punch as well. I'll try more force. It could just be that I haven't gotten angry enough at it. My main concern is that if the pins keep getting mangled, am I going to have to escalate my efforts to have them drilled or cut out?
 
XTAV750 said:
The upper is DPMS. Tapered pins, and I've been banging them left to right. It looks pretty obvious which side to work on. I think I'm using the right sized punch as well. I'll try more force. It could just be that I haven't gotten angry enough at it. My main concern is that if the pins keep getting mangled, am I going to have to escalate my efforts to have them drilled or cut out?
Click to expand...

I wouldn't want to drill . The pins are kinda hard so the bit might open the holes up more (and the barrel groves.) if your gonna use a clamp on gas block not a big deal.
Do you have a block to hammer them on?

Soft wood on a stuff table will help . After the fsb dents the wood it won't rock as much and more force will be transferred to the pins. When you punch them out also the pins will stick into the wood.
 
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Fair advice... Any suggestions in NH?

I'm also going to replace the gas tube with a mid length and I'm thinking about a 13 inch troy rail. For a 16 inch barrel any suggestions on rail length?

I can see this slowly turning into the "XTAV dicks up his rifle" thread. [wave]
 
Yeah, brute force in the right direction. I had an old Colt M16A1 upper that I had to beat the crap out of to get the pins moving. I'm talking 5lb sledge and bending some Starrett punches.

**** Troy for hiring Munroe, but their Alpha rails are good looking. Just buy used [smile], 13" will cover the entire gas block on a midlength.

I'm just south of Manch and have the Brownells puck if you want to try it before drilling, dunno how much better it will be than the 2x4's though.
 
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Cut a groove lengthwise in the the side of the base about half way through it. Put a cold chisel in the groove and smack it with a hammer. It will put a small split through the base. Once it splits all tension is gone and it will slip right off. This is hoe mechanics take bearing races off a spindle without using an arbor press. Works like a charm.
 
Some companies press them in with what seems like 10 billion pounds of force, to the point that I'm sure they must deform the barrel. (That metal has to go somewhere.) I've destroyed a few good "cup-end" punches (whatever they're called) getting them out before. If you can't bang them out, you might need to press them out.
 
bfm said:
You have carbine length now? Welding and redrilling the barrel for the gas port?


Assume wave means you were kidding.
Click to expand...

No I'm actually an idiot. I pretty much forgot that you can't just change your gas system to something else.

I has a smaht.

Anyway, I'll give it another solid try when I get home before taking it in to a gunsmith. I hate having to have other people do work I should be able to do myself. What kind of damage can be done to the barrel as a result of beating the ever loving shit out of those pins?

Edit: also, for a 16 barrel, would you go with a 13 or 15 inch rail?
 
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XTAV750 said:
No I'm actually an idiot. I pretty much forgot that you can't just change your gas system to something else.

I has a smaht.

Anyway, I'll give it another solid try when I get home before taking it in to a gunsmith. I hate having to have other people do work I should be able to do myself. What kind of damage can be done to the barrel as a result of beating the ever loving shit out of those pins?

Edit: also, for a 16 barrel, would you go with a 13 or 15 inch rail?
Click to expand...

POTATOE!! ;)
 
XTAV750 said:
Could be... If a brotha had a saw.

But even if i did that wouldn't I still need to get the gas block off to remove the delta ring?
Click to expand...

I cut my delta ring off with a dremel. Do you have a perm attached brake? That's another potential problem.

I went with A MI 2 piece free float rail that let me attach it to the existing barrel nut. I prefer the fsb but have been tempted to shave it down.
 
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That's a good point, I could just cut it off. The brake is already off, because NH. It looks like the install is pretty simple I've just got get this mother****ing FSB, then I should be good to go.

The parts I have in mind are:

BCM low profile gas block
Vtac 13 rail
Magpul buis
Magpul RSA

I was going to switch to a Battlecomp, but the Rock River brake works well enough. I can always swap it later. Either way, It should be pretty solid when it's done.
 
XTAV750 said:
That's a good point, I could just cut it off. The brake is already off, because NH. It looks like the install is pretty simple I've just got get this mother****ing FSB, then I should be good to go.

The parts I have in mind are:

BCM low profile gas block
Vtac 13 rail
Magpul buis
Magpul RSA

I was going to switch to a Battlecomp, but the Rock River brake works well enough. I can always swap it later. Either way, It should be pretty solid when it's done.
Click to expand...

Have you tried PB Blaster? Another set of hand is always helpful.
 

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