Sweeney
NES Member
Since it's an octagonal barrel I can put 5 rails on it without interfering with the ramming lever. Plenty of room for a red dot, grenade launcher and laser designator...maybe a cup holder.
-
If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership The benefits pay for the membership many times over.
A smoked Colt Navy...
- Thread starter Sweeney
- Start date
38ExtraSpecial
NES Member
Yeah I’m no gunsmith but sometimes I question why the heck he does some things.
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2018
- Messages
- 307
- Likes
- 432
FWIW the best penetrating oil one can use is a DIY homemade mix of 50% acetone and 50% automatic transmission fluid (ATF).
“Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and bolts that they ‘scientifically rusted’ to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.
This is what they came up with:
“Machinist Workshop Magazine” did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and bolts that they ‘scientifically rusted’ to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.
This is what they came up with:
- Nothing: 516 lbs
- WD-40: 238 lbs
- PB Blaster: 214 lbs
- Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs
- Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
- ATF/Acetone mix (50/50 mix): 50 lbs
Sweeney
NES Member
That's some weird gunsmithing, man.
- Joined
- Mar 31, 2021
- Messages
- 114
- Likes
- 151
There's general trouble with electrolysis. Zapping the metal to have it shed it's rust is also altering the metallurgical nature of the metal.
I don't exactly know what that is but have been warned by a few materials engineers to avoid electrolysis on metals that were specifically designed for their purpose. In this case hardness, malleability, and who knows what else was defined by the manufacturer with specific intent.
Sweeney
NES Member
^ There is no 'zapping' of the metal. Passing a small current through the rusted steel into an electrolytic bath to an anode disassociates oxygen from the iron effectively leaving only the iron component of the 'rust'. Only the very outer molecular layer is involved. There is virtually no heat generated that would impact the hardness of the steel.
The use of DC current can damage steel
More so steel with high copper
A low current bath should be fine on most guns. Theres also some chemical reaction that can take place because of the hydrogen or some shit.
IIRC this is more so for higher current and deeply pitted steel?
Sweeney
NES Member
Hydrogen Embrittlement.
Parker Duofold
NES Member
Evaporust
Sweeney
NES Member
Attack on the barrel...
Mention earlier, the muzzle was damaged. The left side was 'pushed' back causing the wall to thicken and bulge both outward and inward. This resulted in the crown being distorted to a depth of about 0.100"... (forgot to take a picture). Since the barrel is a tapered octagon it posed an interesting puzzle on how to hold it to square the end and repair the crown.
First, I turned a mandrel that had a snug sliding fit down the bore. The end need to be reduced in diameter to get past the damaged crown.
I also made a drive pin that was a light press into the loading plunger bore of the barrel.
Mention earlier, the muzzle was damaged. The left side was 'pushed' back causing the wall to thicken and bulge both outward and inward. This resulted in the crown being distorted to a depth of about 0.100"... (forgot to take a picture). Since the barrel is a tapered octagon it posed an interesting puzzle on how to hold it to square the end and repair the crown.
First, I turned a mandrel that had a snug sliding fit down the bore. The end need to be reduced in diameter to get past the damaged crown.
I also made a drive pin that was a light press into the loading plunger bore of the barrel.
Sweeney
NES Member
A skim cut on the muzzle reveals that it is not square to the bore axis.
25 thousandths later and the face is squared. You can sort of see how the gap around the mandrel is uneven and the wall is thickened around the 1:30 position.
25 thousandths later and the face is squared. You can sort of see how the gap around the mandrel is uneven and the wall is thickened around the 1:30 position.
Sweeney
NES Member
Head scratching..... How am I going to fix the crown and the end of the bore?.....I had a center in the mandrel that was (theoretically) the center of the bore. I used that to guide a modified center drill to effectively counter bore past the damaged area.
Modifying the center drill with a tool post grinder.
Not too bad, me thinks...
Modifying the center drill with a tool post grinder.
Not too bad, me thinks...
Evapo rust sucks especially at its price point.
I do use it , dont get me wrong but its not that great vs what it cost. Oh and it can be reused for a good bit but each use takes longer and longer.
Something like that, I dont know what the limits are but its one of the warnings I read about with electrolysis. I use electrolysis often but I use low current , 9v batter , 2 D battery for small projects and a 2amp 6v charger for heavy stuff.
My go to is a older 3v charger from a old rechargeable flash light.
Nice wish I had the time and space for a lathe. I have had many instances where I could have “made a tool” to fix something
Made life easier . I have slowly stopped doing projects because of my lack of space and proper tools.
Im tired of making due with what I have.
Sweeney
NES Member
After lightening the barrel...
After removing the rust by boiling in the rendered fat of orphaned children the surface was left covered in 'micro' pits and felt a bit like sand paper. The muzzle, where distorted, needed to be filed to remove the unsightly bulges and.... well, the file found it's way over the entire thing... just enough to clean up the surface but not remove it's character.
You can see where the muzzle end has been filed to get it on the same plane as the rest of the barrel.
Rampant filing proceeds...
Finished with a bit of stoning.
After removing the rust by boiling in the rendered fat of orphaned children the surface was left covered in 'micro' pits and felt a bit like sand paper. The muzzle, where distorted, needed to be filed to remove the unsightly bulges and.... well, the file found it's way over the entire thing... just enough to clean up the surface but not remove it's character.
You can see where the muzzle end has been filed to get it on the same plane as the rest of the barrel.
Rampant filing proceeds...
Finished with a bit of stoning.
Sweeney
NES Member
The next task... replace the missing nubbins. Might be a job for a carbide drill to get through the case. The owner said the pins were broken off a long time ago. For those that don't know, these pins engage the 'strut' on the bottom of the barrel to help lock the barrel and frame in alignment. Fixturing might be fun.
Last edited:
where those pins cast when the gun was made... no real sign of a "pressed" pin ?
I have to get me some decent "chemicals" for the browning or rust blueing. I have a few DIY mixes that do ok but not for "better" projects.
One thing I do like is I use Dark Thread cutting oil for any "oil soaking" after blueing or carding. As far as I knoow its detergent free. Imn pretty sure the jug I have is Rigid cutting oil from the 80s. Belonged to my dad.
Last edited:
ldi
NES Member
I’m definitely staying tuned on pins - really interested to see your attack strategy.
And also curious weather they were tapped, pressed or casted.
Sweeney
NES Member
The pins were part of the casting as far as I can tell.
My solution to hold this part was to put an adjustable parallel between the spindle and the frame to keep the gap from collapsing then use the spindle, mounted in a V block to orient the (now missing) pins vertically.
The pins are +/- 0.125" dia. and are effectively flush to that curved surface so the bores needed to be smaller to avoid breaking through. I used a 3/32 carbide end mill to poke the holes 0.100" deep.
Last edited:
Sweeney
NES Member
The wee pins... I selected only the finest of... well...random bolt from the pile of other random bolts and bits from which to make the pins.
Nothing exciting here... just some lathe work.
Ripe and ready for harvest. Parting off pin number one.
The pair.
I made them a 'drop in' fit to avoid blowing out the bores. Hoping green Loctite will hole them. If that fails I'll go with epoxy.
Ain't they swell.
Nothing exciting here... just some lathe work.
Ripe and ready for harvest. Parting off pin number one.
The pair.
I made them a 'drop in' fit to avoid blowing out the bores. Hoping green Loctite will hole them. If that fails I'll go with epoxy.
Ain't they swell.
Sweeney
NES Member
Boom! Nailed it.
![[laugh]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/012.gif "Laugh [laugh]")
