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A smoked Colt Navy...
- Thread starter Sweeney
- Start date
Sweeney
NES Member
A bit more work on the 1851.
Cylinder after a good boiling and then carding.
The cones would not survive removal and this will most likely be only a display piece. If the owner intends to fire it the barrel/cylinder gap really needs to be closed up... I 'll ask before doing that work.
Cylinder after a good boiling and then carding.
The cones would not survive removal and this will most likely be only a display piece. If the owner intends to fire it the barrel/cylinder gap really needs to be closed up... I 'll ask before doing that work.
Sweeney
NES Member
It's the rubbing or brushing of the surface after the 'red rust' hematite has been converted to 'black rust' magnetite to remove the loose fuzzy bits that aren't adhered to the surface. I primarily use a very fine wire wheel but you can use 0000 steel wool or bronze wool, leather, etc. I believe card stock was used, hence the term 'carding'.
Sweeney
NES Member
A bit more work to do to make it a shooter. The bolt (cylinder lock) is slipping off the cam on he hammer preventing the cylinder from unlocking while cocking the hammer. I want to close up the barrel/cylinder gap about 0.010" and then test to see if it will pop a cap...or six. The striking face of the hammer may need some metal build up.
I'm going to replace a few of the mangled screws, maybe do one more round of bluing on the barrel depending on whether I need to machine the strut to close up the B/C gap and maybe one more application of BLO on the grip.
It did shine up pretty well, I think.
I'm going to replace a few of the mangled screws, maybe do one more round of bluing on the barrel depending on whether I need to machine the strut to close up the B/C gap and maybe one more application of BLO on the grip.
It did shine up pretty well, I think.
Sweeney
NES Member
When I returned it to its owner it was fully capable of firing. I did not fire ball (don't have any) but did fire blank loads successfully. I'll get a report from the owner when next I talk to him. Mechanically there should be no issue.
ldi
NES Member
Very nice.
The only area I’d keep an eye on is cast around pins. I’m sure it’s fine to function repeatedly, but smaller diameter pin posts would’ve given me a peace of mind with thicker cast wall around them.
The only area I’d keep an eye on is cast around pins. I’m sure it’s fine to function repeatedly, but smaller diameter pin posts would’ve given me a peace of mind with thicker cast wall around them.
Sweeney
NES Member
I think that area will be ok. The main job of the pins is to clock the barrel. The load (which is rather small) applied to them is tangential to the center point of the cylinder spigot in which case there is substantial material to support them.
When firing, the load in this area should be inward against the frame as the barrel tries to pivot axially (bend) around the spigot... i.e., the barrel proper is pushed forward but is constrained by the spigot/wedge so it tries to flex the spigot downward, hence, forcing the 'strut of the barrel' back against the frame.
ldi
NES Member
That’s all so only if hinge-action pin isn’t to loose.
Plus something like that is not going to be fired from - let’s just say - a lot.
Very nice job overall and than you for sharing.
dwarven1
Lonely Mountain Arms
Very nice work. Enjoyed the pix of the lathe work. While I no longer have a full size lathe, I still have my watchmaker's lathe. Had to use it to make a safety plunger for a 1908 Colt one time. They're spring loaded - something I did NOT know when I took the gun apart. Never did find the original.
Sweeney
NES Member
Thanks! I'm a technician who dabbles in machining, fabrication, design, problem solving to keep the ship afloat.
Mass-diver
NES Member
Great stuff, thanks for sharing!
