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A little Help Reloading .40 BASE BULGING FROM DIES?

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Hey Guys I have returned to seek your answers once again, tap those lovely melons and see what you can do for me here. I am now reloading .40 and seem to be getting some case bulging going on at the base of the brass. The main case diameter after a reload seems to be .420 and at the bottom its .430 so far the reloads I have done and shot seem fine. They load in the chambers fine, they aren't loaded all that hot sub 1K fps for a 180 Rainer plated. But I just don't feel all that good about that little bump there. Edify me folks. I have a polymer pistol and would like to have safe reloads. Its a HK. NOT a Glock. Real question is how dangerous is this bulge if I have a fully supported barrel?

* I see a potential fix for this?
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=358543
 
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Are you:

1. Using a CARBIDE sizing die; and

2. Running down so it just b-a-r-e-l-y touches the shell plate at the top of the stroke?

Also, are you reloading Glocked range brass?

Note: EC will tell you to size with an undersized die, which will work. I suggest the Lee FCD, which is a carbide finish-size/taper crimp die in your final step.

Hit SEARCH and find our respective thoughts on these products.
 
Are you:

1. Using a CARBIDE sizing die; and

2. Running down so it just b-a-r-e-l-y touches the shell plate at the top of the stroke?

Also, are you reloading Glocked range brass?

Note: EC will tell you to size with an undersized die, which will work. I suggest the Lee FCD, which is a carbide finish-size/taper crimp die in your final step.

Hit SEARCH and find our respective thoughts on these products.


I agree the Lee FCD corrected that issue and more for me . [wink] very inexpensive fix.
 
LEE makes a Bulge Buster to address the problem. They claim with that and a factory crimp die it will fix the problem. Haven't tried it myself, so I would read some reviews.
 
I have found that the Lee "Undersized" resizing die will resize "Glocked" brass without leaving a bulge. Itis about 95% effective on ONCE fired brass. It does not seem to work on brass that has been fired more than once. I use a Lee FCD but find that it does not remove the bulge.
The Lee "Bulge Buster" requires that you remove your FCD for "push through" resizing in another press, or buy a second FCD. I think the Redding die is a better deal as you get the die and don't have to remove your FCD.
 
Gammon, I may be wrong, but I understand that you use the bulge buster on a separate press. And use the FCD in its normal position on your progressive. I dont believe you use the FCD prior to loading. The bulge buster and FCD are 2 separate products, and are used at different times in the loading process. The bulge buster is used in the brass prep stage, and the FCD is used as a final crimp/size stage on loaded ammo. When used in conjunction they are claimed to provide consistent, bulge free ammo.

A single stage press is a good investment for anyone who loads, and LEE offers a very inexpensive model that is good for simple operations such as this. I have one I use to decap brass and size cast bullets. (I use a LEE sizing die and lube in a pan) You should be able to pick up both the Bulge Buster and press for around $40. A good investment if it works as advertised.

Like I said, read a few reviews before you decide. I am sure there are other ways to deal with the problem as well.
 
Gammon, I may be wrong, but I understand that you use the bulge buster on a separate press. And use the FCD in its normal position on your progressive. I dont believe you use the FCD prior to loading. The bulge buster and FCD are 2 separate products, and are used at different times in the loading process. The bulge buster is used in the brass prep stage, and the FCD is used as a final crimp/size stage on loaded ammo. When used in conjunction they are claimed to provide consistent, bulge free ammo.

A single stage press is a good investment for anyone who loads, and LEE offers a very inexpensive model that is good for simple operations such as this. I have one I use to decap brass and size cast bullets. (I use a LEE sizing die and lube in a pan) You should be able to pick up both the Bulge Buster and press for around $40. A good investment if it works as advertised.

Like I said, read a few reviews before you decide. I am sure there are other ways to deal with the problem as well.

If I am not mistaken, the "Bulge Buster" kit must be used with a FCD which is not provided. This is why it seems rather inexpensive.
 
If I am not mistaken, the "Bulge Buster" kit must be used with a FCD which is not provided. This is why it seems rather inexpensive.

I am sorry Gammon you are correct. I misunderstood the instructions. I apologize for doubting you.
This is a copy of the instructions from Lee.http://www.leeprecision.com/cgi-data/instruct/1855.pdf
I still feel it would be a cost effective solution should it work as advertised. $40 for bulge free brass doesn't seem that bad.

Though Rob Boudrie's solution looks rather nice, although costly.

Whatever the solution may be, I hope the OP finds it.
 
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Though Rob Boudrie's solution looks rather nice, although costly.
I have a Case Pro, and the machine is great. It also roll sizes some calibers that can't be handled by a push-through die such as the semi-rimmed 38 super and tapered 9x19.
 
I think I would prefer the Redding "push through" die for the .40. It is comparable to Lee in price and I think Redding makes better dies.

The Case Pro is a great machine, but you need to shoot the expensive brass (Super, Auto Comp, etc) to justify the expense. There is too much free 9 and 40 lying around to make this machine cost effective in these calibers.
 
I knew a commercial reloader who had this type of machine custom built as he was selling 9mm ammo to folks who used it in automatic weapons which just about ruined the brass. This machine had a case feeder for high volume production and also chamfered the primer pocket at the same time. Slick!
 
Are you:

1. Using a CARBIDE sizing die; and

2. Running down so it just b-a-r-e-l-y touches the shell plate at the top of the stroke?

Also, are you reloading Glocked range brass?

Note: EC will tell you to size with an undersized die, which will work. I suggest the Lee FCD, which is a carbide finish-size/taper crimp die in your final step.

Hit SEARCH and find our respective thoughts on these products.

Hey Scriv, thanks for the pointers there, yea I am using Dillon Carbide Dies..... But just found out as I was running them through the decapper sizing die.... Yea a little gappage there. Sigh...... so backed it off ran the handle down shellplate up.... wound the die down till touched the shellplate, tightened it up. and oh hey, look at that ... Around the neck .420 around the base .422 an .08 improvement..... All I had done for the first stage die was make so it de-capped them... Didn't really think about full pushing it to the base of the die and shell plate....
Doah! so now the real question what do I do with the other freaking 500ish rounds I got.... they seem to shoot and do whatever fine feed fine cycle fine no other signs of pressure or anything... Is that bulge now a compromised location? Or will the full chamber support that I have handle that? Only thing I can see doing is removing the decapping pin and running all my loaded rounds through there and removing the powder die and primer thing and pulling them off after that first stage. Course running live rounds through a machine makes me a lil nervous..... Thoughts folks?
 
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If they shoot, you don't need to resize them and the cases aren't compromised. The glocked brass we all reload is bulged and gets fixed by proper resizing.

Only thing I can see doing is removing the decapping pin and running all my loaded rounds through there and removing the powder die and primer thing and pulling them off after that first stage. Course running live rounds through a machine makes me a lil nervous..... Thoughts folks?

It shouldn't make you nervous, that isn't much different than what a Lee FCD does, right? It resizes the loaded round. Many people, like Scriv, use those and have all their fingers. However, you're not alone in your gut feeling about why sizing a loaded round doesn't seem to make complete sense and you can probably understand why so many of us opt to use something like the EGW U-die to properly resize from the start.
 
I decided a COAL of 1.265 was more than I wanted for my .45's when converting back to my usual bullet profile. Even though it's .010 under the maximum length and the ones I ran through the single-stack cycled, I decided I would be happier around 1.255-60.

So, I removed the locating pin at Station #3 on the 550 and ran the cartridges through to lower the bullet that much more.

On about 125 cartridges.

Including putting them all through the Lee FCD at Station #4.

No "energetic disassemblies," unintended discharges, lost appendages or other crises.

Worry about the REAL issues; double-charges, NO charges and missing/inverted primers.
 
Hey thanks a bunch guys, I think I should be alright now that I got the decapper sizer station touching the shell plate (barely, stroke is still 100%) seems to eliminate most of the bulge going on. I think I shall just shoot out what I got now, and do it right the first time around. Also, I can get lots of once fired.40 cal brass to reuse rather than this stuff I got. And its all non-glocked for sure. Once again, thanks all for the help!
 
I decided a COAL of 1.265 was more than I wanted for my .45's when converting back to my usual bullet profile. Even though it's .010 under the maximum length and the ones I ran through the single-stack cycled, I decided I would be happier around 1.255-60.

So, I removed the locating pin at Station #3 on the 550 and ran the cartridges through to lower the bullet that much more.

On about 125 cartridges.

Including putting them all through the Lee FCD at Station #4.

No "energetic disassemblies," unintended discharges, lost appendages or other crises.

Worry about the REAL issues; double-charges, NO charges and missing/inverted primers.

I have been using 1.250 for many years in the 45 ACP with great results. My only departure from this spec is the ammo I load for my six inch long slide with a BarSto barrel. The tight chamber in the BarSto barrel requires an OAL of 1.235.
One thing to remember is that the max OAL of 1.275 won't chamber in a lot of guns. 1.250 is a much more realistic dimension.
 
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