9mm frangible reloading - now with pics and range report

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I ended up with about 3k 90 grain 9mm frangibles recently. After reading online about these I began to second guess my purchase for my intended purpose, cheap plinking loads for an open bolt subgun. I kept getting generic comments on the net that they "won't run" in an open bolt gun. If I had a 9mm pistol I shot steel with I would keep these anyways but almost all my pistols are in the dreaded 40.

Frangible ammo loaded:
frangible.jpg

Basically a truncated cone that is about the length of a 115gr jacketed slug in the same caliber. Slightly strange color as it is powdered copper and another metal pressed together.

I also found a bunch of posts that basically say that the loads that ARE working in normal pistols use fast powder and higher loads than those listed online for 100 gr sinterfire frangibles and other frangible loading data. Luckily I have plenty of one of the powders that kept getting bantered around to use in testing.

So far I loaded up 30 rounds, 10 each weight and +.2 grains each step. The top load is well over listed but has been referenced at several places I have found. Without a chronograph I am going to start at the bottom and see if they function AND check for pressure signs. I figure the worst that can happen is I end up with 30 spent / pulled down rounds and I resell the remainder if they wont function. Shooting them tomorrow AM and will post the results tomorrow.

I do not want to post my weights on powder as I do not want anyone to copy me and end up way over recommended. Anyone else reload any of these?? Input appreciated and welcomed. Even if it is I am a total a$$ for attempting this....

UPDATE: Range report

Went to the range today and tried shooting the lowest loaded rounds. Ran two rounds, due to the bolt not catching on the sear (not enough power to cycle the bolt) and then I got this:
BulletonRamp.jpg

Yes, I actually wrote on each case the weight in that round... Easier to pick up the case and look for signs of pressure and know exactly which load it came out of.

The flat of the bullet is catching on the barrel and stopping the round from chambering. Some people call this normal for a M11 and TC bullets but I know that this style bullet will work with some tweaking. The feed ramp to a M11 is integral to the gun, as it is a sheet metal piece that is welded into the receiver. This pic shows the "ramp" with the upper taken off:
MACramp1.jpg

Having a problem with this pic so if it needs rotation let me know please.....

You can see it directly below the barrel. The rounds typically "jump" into the barrel and barely touch the ramp from what I can see with round nose ammo. The TC ammo left a definite trail on the entire ramp and then smash into the barrel at the flat. I checked the rounds for setback from smashing into the ramp and they did not move in the case.

So, after reading about people adjusting the ramp up or down depending on the upper being used, and being at the range with no tools (and being chicken) I tried a high tech solution: Masking Tape!!!- only beacuse I didnt have any Ductape. I added six layers to the ramp to increase its' height temporarily to see if that would help:
Ramptaped.jpg


SUCCESS!! All 10 rounds of my highest loading functioned properly but seemed to be at a slower ROF than my normal jacketed reloads (which are loaded on the low end). Time to reload some at that load and at +0.2 as well as fabricate a metal shim that will sit over the ramp and add height. One Eyed Jack suggested adding the shim and I think it is a great idea rather than me pulling on the ramp and snapping one of the tiny welds. If this was some pinko commie product I would be smashing it with a hammer and chisel and it would run forever but being American and built right during the rush before the ban I would expect me to break it....

FYI: Reloading data for my powder lists weights well below that used in normal 90 grain bullets in 9mm. I ended up with all three loads over the listed data for frangible but within the data for regular 90gr ammo. I checked OAL and depth of the rounds in the case and with the normal 90gr the rounds are shorter and end up at the same case depth according to what I have read as 115 gr loads which load to the same depth that I am at with the frangibles.
More to come once I build the shim.....
 
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Sorry, I've only reloaded the Sinterfire products in 9mm and other calibers. I don't know what you are working with exactly and I don't have any experience with open-bolt sub guns.
I've also reloaded plastic bullets, sabots and bakelite frangibles (M160, I think they are), but that doesn't relate to your query. All I know is that the Sinterfire is okay on steel at 6-12" in pistols, but stay back about five feet with .308 Win. to avoid getting debris (remnants from jacketed bullets on the plates) blow-back. SKS (7.62x39mm) good at 3 feet.
I would encourage other MA reloaders to take them off your hands, if you decide to let them go.
 
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I purchased the 100 gr. Remington frangible bullets and used the Hodgdon data for Sinterfire with Universal powder.
 
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